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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-07-2016, 05:22 AM   #3586
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
They are single piece.
They are the DE Speedline plus wheels.
They are in my opinion the very best you can have out of all the types I have tried.
They hold very rigid and have ribs on the inside span of the wheel that keep soft tire foams from rolling out on the side wall as much as they would without them. This is very noticeable with tires and foams like those found on SS Panther Boa's.
They are super easy to glue and have a perfect sized tire bead groove on them.
I never personally liked the look of the solid rims, but the performance gains I feel with them cause me to blind eye the notion of it.
yes, the inside span as you will of "rims" typically have a bit to much flex.. But with such tight clearance, options for re enforcement seem limited.. Without adding a ton of weight of course.
* Just wondering now if additional flex is now being transfered to inner span due to outer rigidity.
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Old 05-07-2016, 05:38 AM   #3587
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
yes, the inside span as you will of "rims" typically have a bit to much flex.. But with such tight clearance, options for re enforcement seem limited.. Without adding a ton of weight of course.
* Just wondering now if additional flex is now being transfered to inner span due to outer rigidity.
I would imagine that would be the case for sure with the addition of the ribs adding rigidity to the circumference of the outer structure, but I am feel since they are in-fact solid outers, that is essentially canceled out in effect that the entire design is over all more rigid in every way.
The trucks feel more like they are on rails holding their groove, while the shock settings seem more pronounced and effective.
The normal softer wheels used by most manufacturers seem to deaden these areas with a more spongy feel that leaves a more delayed and less precise feeling when planting for a turn or accelerating away from a jump.
I can't say that everyone would like them, cause you have to think slightly softer with your typical suspension setup if you want to take advantage of the fact they are more solid feeling.
I feel like a balance will hold much better with these as well, due to the fact of less distortion over all.
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Old 05-07-2016, 05:50 AM   #3588
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Just a funny little story since we are on the Tekno thread...
Last time I raced my losi, I had tried a new shock combination and tooled with a few things hoping I was on to something... Well I couldn't have been more "off track".
Pun intended!

Anyhow I qualified dead last both qualifiers, so I decided to do a major overhaul on what I had done to the Losi while waiting for the race.
Ended up helping another guy fix his rig before his race and couldn't get my truck back together in time as I was being called for the B main. I ran back to my table and grabbed my girlfriend's 410.3 with a non tested setup just as my losi had and threw my transponder in it so I could make the race. Luckily they held the race off until I had it together.
Anyhow I ended up winning the B main as I passed the leader before the second lap was completed and pretty much held it the rest of the race. Coming back to rear of the A main, the Tekno led it a couple of laps as well until I made some stupid mistakes.
Boy did I have to hear it from the Tekno guys when the race was over and I was carrying my Losi back to the car!
Haha not the Losi's fault, but another chalk up to old reliable it looks like
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Old 05-07-2016, 05:57 AM   #3589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Just a funny little story since we are on the Tekno thread...
Last time I raced my losi, I had tried a new shock combination and tooled with a few things hoping I was on to something... Well I couldn't have been more "off track".
Pun intended!

Anyhow I qualified dead last both qualifiers, so I decided to do a major overhaul on what I had done to the Losi while waiting for the race.
Ended up helping another guy fix his rig before his race and couldn't get my truck back together in time as I was being called for the B main. I ran back to my table and grabbed my girlfriend's 410.3 with a non tested setup just as my losi had and threw my transponder in it so I could make the race. Luckily they held the race off until I had it together.
Anyhow I ended up winning the B main as I passed the leader before the second lap was completed and pretty much held it the rest of the race. Coming back to rear of the A main, the Tekno led it a couple of laps as well until I made some stupid mistakes.
Boy did I have to hear it from the Tekno guys when the race was over and I was carrying my Losi back to the car!
Haha not the Losi's fault, but another chalk up to old reliable it looks like
Well now that the cats out of the bag.. Your going to have to give up that there set-up ,, Bud..
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Old 05-07-2016, 04:41 PM   #3590
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Ok well after an hour of trying I cant seem to load the pics I took. I did the ESC mod just like Lowes48. Here are the numbers only thing different is my lipo is slid all the way forward as it just weighs in at 320g.

LF=754g RF=710g

LR=724g RR=758g

Its close to even. And at least the two heaviest and the two lightest tires are across from eachother making it even when turning. Raced it last night and it is a lot more balanced. I can add a little weight to RF and get it to 724g to match the LR and those two would be as balanced as the LF and the RR. I weighed the receiver box with the lid antenna and the screws and it is 30g. So stock that RR and RF have a good amount of weight. And when you do the battery tray mod you do move weight to the rear but it also goes over to the RR and the LF becomes the tire with the least amount of weight and the RR with the most. You dont want your lightest tire and you heaviest tire across from each other like that. At an angle the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. And the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. That way stomping on the throttle or jamin into a turn you are 50/50 at an angle. If this makes since cool if not I dont think I can explain it any better. Truck drove more balanced and on a 16 second lap time I picked up at least .5 of a second. And thats a lot for the first time out with it. We have 10 or 12 trucks that run indoor high bite every Friday night. And the top 6 me included are only .3 to .5 a second between all of us. I had first for a while got nervous and lost it. But the truck for me anyway is better with the ESC back there. And when I soldered it up this time I keep the wires long. I could put the truck back to the way it was in under an hour. Just thought I would post what I found out...


I do run a Savox 1258tg and it weighs just 56 or so grams. So that is why my RF is a little light I think. I do have my receiver and lap timer and everything mounted like the pic Lowes48 posted.

If anyone wants to know I used a G-Force scale like this.... http://www.teameamotorsports.com/ind...product_id=131

Last edited by taz169; 05-07-2016 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:16 PM   #3591
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
Well now that the cats out of the bag.. Your going to have to give up that there set-up ,, Bud..
I will write it up soon as I am done tweaking it to perfection. I mostly run on low bite dusty hard pack and loamy tracks. So I am usually on another spectrum of tuning than you find by the pro sheets
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:21 PM   #3592
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Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
Ok well after an hour of trying I cant seem to load the pics I took. I did the ESC mod just like Lowes48. Here are the numbers only thing different is my lipo is slid all the way forward as it just weighs in at 320g.

LF=754g RF=710g

LR=724g RR=758g

Its close to even. And at least the two heaviest and the two lightest tires are across from eachother making it even when turning. Raced it last night and it is a lot more balanced. I can add a little weight to RF and get it to 724g to match the LR and those two would be as balanced as the LF and the RR. I weighed the receiver box with the lid antenna and the screws and it is 30g. So stock that RR and RF have a good amount of weight. And when you do the battery tray mod you do move weight to the rear but it also goes over to the RR and the LF becomes the tire with the least amount of weight and the RR with the most. You dont want your lightest tire and you heaviest tire across from each other like that. At an angle the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. And the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. That way stomping on the throttle or jamin into a turn you are 50/50 at an angle. If this makes since cool if not I dont think I can explain it any better. Truck drove more balanced and on a 16 second lap time I picked up at least .5 of a second. And thats a lot for the first time out with it. We have 10 or 12 trucks that run indoor high bite every Friday night. And the top 6 me included are only .3 to .5 a second between all of us. I had first for a while got nervous and lost it. But the truck for me anyway is better with the ESC back there. And when I soldered it up this time I keep the wires long. I could put the truck back to the way it was in under an hour. Just thought I would post what I found out...


I do run a Savox 1258tg and it weighs just 56 or so grams. So that is why my RF is a little light I think. I do have my receiver and lap timer and everything mounted like the pic Lowes48 posted.

If anyone wants to know I used a G-Force scale like this.... http://www.teameamotorsports.com/ind...product_id=131
Nice write up taz.

Question : Were the sway bars and shocks detached for the weigh in?
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:24 PM   #3593
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I will write it up soon as I am done tweaking it to perfection. I mostly run on low bite dusty hard pack and loamy tracks. So I am usually on another spectrum of tuning than you find by the pro sheets
HAHAHA,, No biggeee . Was really just having some fun with ya , pal...
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:25 PM   #3594
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Ok well after an hour of trying I cant seem to load the pics I took.
There is a simple way that I find to be better than what the forum offers with it's uploads. Just go here> http://postimage.org/
Click family safe and upload your pic. It will give you multiple URL types to post, but for this site the best one seems to be the direct URL from which you them (IMG) tag in your post. Full res pics simple and free.

Oh, and I dig that scale. I really want to pick one up soon.
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:42 PM   #3595
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Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
Ok well after an hour of trying I cant seem to load the pics I took. I did the ESC mod just like Lowes48. Here are the numbers only thing different is my lipo is slid all the way forward as it just weighs in at 320g.

LF=754g RF=710g

LR=724g RR=758g
For the sake of comparison, I took my 4 matching scales and got some corner weights as well from the 2 trucks here. None of the plastic is trimmed on either vehicle. Battery rearward in stock tray no mod on both. Transponder in front on both as shown in my electronics tray video. Both with bodies on and similar off road medium pin tires, CF towers, AL hinge pin blocks, and air guards.

SCT410 (original) with RX forward (at ESC) and no cover or use of the rx box.
RX8G2, SMC motor, PTK130T servo, 7200 battery, HiFlo body
LF=787.3g RF=774.2g
LB=772.5g RB=817.9g
LT=1559.8g RT=1592.1
FT=1561.5g BT=1590.4
L/R%=49.5/50.5
F/B%=49.5/50.5
Total Weight=3151.9g

SCT410.3 in standard configuration.
RX8G2, HW motor, Orion servo, 7600 battery, FTW body
LF=718.9g RF=799.1g
LB=786.5g RB=765.3g
LT=1505.4g RT=1564.4g
FT=1518g BT=1551.8g
L/R%=49/51
F/B%=49.4/50.6
Total Weight=3069.8g


I will note that this is with my normal suspension settings and on wheels, to match what others are doing. I will also note that this is not how you get accurate corner weights of the chassis layout, but only of the tire patch pressure, which factors suspension settings and ride heights into it as well. It does show that, for me at least, the biggest factor is the heavier motor, though neither is horribly off. Both have a rear tire contact pressure bias already with the bodies on.
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:59 PM   #3596
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Cross weight method: Tire Down pressure on lets say the LF is very often influenced by the RR suspension setting . To eliminate this variable suspension should be unrestricted .
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Old 05-07-2016, 11:48 PM   #3597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
For the sake of comparison, I took my 4 matching scales and got some corner weights as well from the 2 trucks here. None of the plastic is trimmed on either vehicle. Battery rearward in stock tray no mod on both. Transponder in front on both as shown in my electronics tray video. Both with bodies on and similar off road medium pin tires, CF towers, AL hinge pin blocks, and air guards.

SCT410 (original) with RX forward (at ESC) and no cover or use of the rx box.
RX8G2, SMC motor, PTK130T servo, 7200 battery, HiFlo body
LF=787.3g RF=774.2g
LB=772.5g RB=817.9g
LT=1559.8g RT=1592.1
FT=1561.5g BT=1590.4
L/R%=49.5/50.5
F/B%=49.5/50.5
Total Weight=3151.9g

SCT410.3 in standard configuration.
RX8G2, HW motor, Orion servo, 7600 battery, FTW body
LF=718.9g RF=799.1g
LB=786.5g RB=765.3g
LT=1505.4g RT=1564.4g
FT=1518g BT=1551.8g
L/R%=49/51
F/B%=49.4/50.6
Total Weight=3069.8g


I will note that this is with my normal suspension settings and on wheels, to match what others are doing. I will also note that this is not how you get accurate corner weights of the chassis layout, but only of the tire patch pressure, which factors suspension settings and ride heights into it as well. It does show that, for me at least, the biggest factor is the heavier motor, though neither is horribly off. Both have a rear tire contact pressure bias already with the bodies on.
Very informative poet. Thanks for the write up and findings.
I would be interested in seeing what you find with the shocks and wheels off and the arms held leveled and rigidly in place.
Kinda doubt its going to be a huge difference, but it would be interesting to see the number none the less.
I agree that the spring preloads will greatly effect that end result
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:10 AM   #3598
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I had the shocks and sway bars on. Truck was as if I was going to race it with tires and all BUT no body on. That is how I prefer to do it. Sway bars were both 2.4 and springs were all green. But that is how I race it. My ride height was set at 25mm front and rear as that is also how I race it.
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:26 AM   #3599
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http://http://s19.postimg.org/fk6ghvicz/IMG_3340.jpg

http://s19.postimg.org/xxrq6tqpf/IMG_3341.jpg

Enjoy your day Gents !

Last edited by SerpJimmy; 05-08-2016 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:14 PM   #3600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
I had the shocks and sway bars on. Truck was as if I was going to race it with tires and all BUT no body on. That is how I prefer to do it. Sway bars were both 2.4 and springs were all green. But that is how I race it. My ride height was set at 25mm front and rear as that is also how I race it.
Not trying to be over analytical or argumentative to what you are saying but, the point of removing the shocks from the get go is to avoid the false weight distribution offsets that are caused by the individual spring pre-loads.
Otherwise it's pretty much a waste of time to even do it at all.
To further explain my objection on the matter,
The entire purpose of getting absolute chassis balance without the springs negating the true bias is so that once you do have an unsprung weight equilibrium you can then install the shocks at which point that is when you want to adjust your spring rates via the collars to once again find that balance with the correct preloads.

Without equalizing the shock preloads your going to get indifference of compression and rebound rates from side to side, which is exactly what causes inconsistency in the first place.
The procedure is a two to three part process and no less, or it didn't count for anything.
By doing what you're doing the way you explained above, your more or less applying a band-aid on the root problem by masking the offsets with indifferent preloads.
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