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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-29-2016, 01:46 PM   #3511
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I actually found the opposite true with the 1.5mm shim. My nitro buggy was real assy, and after I added the shim, it was much better. It still will whip around, but more controllable about 80% of the time than prior.
Appreciate the input.
I stand corrected.
I have not done this mod personally and just listened in on the topic when i seen the 3D printed plates posted on facebook. Must have misunderstood what I read.
Very interesting.
Seems like TEKNO should make some height adjustable rear hubs. Wouldn't be very hard to do. I already have a design drawn up for them. One really easy way would be to retool the rear arm molds to allow for pills just like the inner hinge blocks.
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Old 04-30-2016, 12:44 AM   #3512
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
For clarity , what side of your car is the right side ? Is this the USA drivers side or passenger side?

So, if i'm reading this correctly , "dont" = balance weight front / rear? There should be more weight towards the rear ? So what is the weight difference we are after here? 60R/40F ?, 70R/30F ? .

Will increasing weight toward rear give up some on throttle steerability & front wheel traction on straight line hard acceleration ?

IMO, Its really kinda strange that placement of factory suggested components need to be altered so drastically to re- balance this truck.. But always willing to learn something...
Hey Jimmy the truck with my factory setup - heavy ESC, heavy servo, 2S 8000 battery, heavy 4300pro4 hd motor, all in default locations resulted in a 50/50 weight split front to rear and a very slight weight bias to the passenger side. That's assuming a left hand drive car orientation... normal tracks this was a superb corner carving monster.

Handling was insane and even with way too much rear droop i.e. I maxed out the droop screws I still had no problems with nosing over on jumps and what little nose diving occurred I could throttle fix, it happened here and there but nothing to worry about.

With the arrival of a parabolic huge triple jump, that changed and she could not be stopped!! bam, hit the nose square on the dirt almost half the time if I didn't hit it just right.

Racing it again this morning so i'll let you know, but so far with those mods I moved the center of gravity rearward about 3/4 and added some weight to the battery side to balance it - took out the extra droop.. that really made it eat that jump up. I have not got around to measuring the weights yet and have not noticed a reduction in steering on or off throttle. I suspect there is some reduction in yaw rate i.e. not as quick turning with that rearward center of gravity and a loss of general grip in front but hey..

I find it crazy too that we have to move stuff around to a new truck that was just designed in 2014. It was worse for me due to heavy esc and servo up front, however i'd like to hear what the engineers said, I assume the lure of 50/50 weight distribution on high grip tracks was the design driver.
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Old 04-30-2016, 04:49 AM   #3513
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Hey Jimmy the truck with my factory setup - heavy ESC, heavy servo, 2S 8000 battery, heavy 4300pro4 hd motor, all in default locations resulted in a 50/50 weight split front to rear and a very slight weight bias to the passenger side. That's assuming a left hand drive car orientation... normal tracks this was a superb corner carving monster.

Handling was insane and even with way too much rear droop i.e. I maxed out the droop screws I still had no problems with nosing over on jumps and what little nose diving occurred I could throttle fix, it happened here and there but nothing to worry about.

With the arrival of a parabolic huge triple jump, that changed and she could not be stopped!! bam, hit the nose square on the dirt almost half the time if I didn't hit it just right.

Racing it again this morning so i'll let you know, but so far with those mods I moved the center of gravity rearward about 3/4 and added some weight to the battery side to balance it - took out the extra droop.. that really made it eat that jump up. I have not got around to measuring the weights yet and have not noticed a reduction in steering on or off throttle. I suspect there is some reduction in yaw rate i.e. not as quick turning with that rearward center of gravity and a loss of general grip in front but hey..

I find it crazy too that we have to move stuff around to a new truck that was just designed in 2014. It was worse for me due to heavy esc and servo up front, however i'd like to hear what the engineers said, I assume the lure of 50/50 weight distribution on high grip tracks was the design driver.
Gotcha , And your much detailed response is very appreciated!
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:44 AM   #3514
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I just ordered on of these today. http://www.teameamotorsports.com/ind...product_id=131 I have moved things around still need to solder it all up. When I get done I will post a pic with the exact weight at each wheel. Then we will all know exactly how much it moved around. I did not weigh it before so I dont know what stock is. And a side note guys no one said that this is a mod you have to do. Not at all. If you like your truck the way it is leave it alone. With the G-Force scale I might move things around some. I can set cross jacking these are things I want to do. I want a 50/50 truck left to right and so on. Lowes48 did a great job posting a mod he did but in no way says anyone has to do this. And once you have the longer wires from the ESC to the motor you can always move things back to where they were in about 20 minutes... The truck is great the way it is some of us just want to change things to get it more even on all 4 corners. Tekno in no way should even be questioned in how they built the truck. The truck is great as is...
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:54 AM   #3515
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Lowes48 until my scales get here I just want to know did you use the most forward or rearward stock strap locations for your lipo. Stock I can still move my lipo forward or rearward a little. In your pic your left front is the lightest spot so just wonder where you had your straps? Thanks...
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:30 AM   #3516
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Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
Lowes48 until my scales get here I just want to know did you use the most forward or rearward stock strap locations for your lipo. Stock I can still move my lipo forward or rearward a little. In your pic your left front is the lightest spot so just wonder where you had your straps? Thanks...
Hey taz....nice scale i can't wait to see it in action !!
I do run the battery rearward to achieve the bias posted and no worries. ...ask away, we're here to share info and make this great truck even better!!! I wonder though if this is issue is more noticeable in super high traction situation!!!
I wish I recorded the weight bias prior to the mod. But once I saw how far off it was(with my current electronics) I really didn't care and just wanted to get it as close to balance as possible.
I do not post a lot of things but when I find something that might help I like to share. In no way I'm saying this mod is a must for eveyone but it is to me. I like to get the basic right then I can't blame the equipments.....lol

Last edited by Lowe's48; 04-30-2016 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:24 AM   #3517
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I certainly appreciate you guys taking the time to try different set-ups. Also , really looking forward to getting down to actual front to rear numbers . And how the truck responds . Its all about numbers .. If i had to take an educated guess , id say weight needs to be more over the rear wheels 40f/60R. Our traxxas slashes come in at about 40f/60R by the way and will nose dive and have handling issues anyway if not, set up. Apposed to 50/50 which is more of an onroad set-up. But if you choose to run your sct on a track like car 50/50 is probably good. But again , its just a guess.. Also lets not discount how many manufactures do this for a living & think otherwise..
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:21 AM   #3518
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
I certainly appreciate you guys taking the time to try different set-ups. Also , really looking forward to getting down to actual front to rear numbers . And how the truck responds . Its all about numbers .. If i had to take an educated guess , id say weight needs to be more over the rear wheels 40f/60R. Our traxxas slashes come in at about 40f/60R by the way and will nose dive and have handling issues anyway if not, set up. Apposed to 50/50 which is more of an onroad set-up. But if you choose to run your sct on a track like car 50/50 is probably good. But again , its just a guess.. Also lets not discount how many manufactures do this for a living & think otherwise..
Hey Jimmy
I'm more concern about left to right bias more than front to rear bias. Front/rear can be tailor to your liking by shocks/springs/oil package but side to side isn't.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:36 AM   #3519
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Yea I think the Tekno stock with the electronics we all run 550 motor and Hobbywing or Tekin ESC its 60f/40R and 60R/40L Thats front to rear and right to left.
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Old 04-30-2016, 01:36 PM   #3520
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Which bag/hauler are you guys using with the 410 ? I'd like to make sure this truck fits before I buy one, I'd like to buy one that the truck fits inside of
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Old 05-01-2016, 04:45 AM   #3521
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Default What I would give...

For Tekno to make their spring sets just 5mm shorter (from pink on up) across the board.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:56 AM   #3522
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
I certainly appreciate you guys taking the time to try different set-ups. Also , really looking forward to getting down to actual front to rear numbers . And how the truck responds . Its all about numbers .. If i had to take an educated guess , id say weight needs to be more over the rear wheels 40f/60R. Our traxxas slashes come in at about 40f/60R by the way and will nose dive and have handling issues anyway if not, set up. Apposed to 50/50 which is more of an onroad set-up. But if you choose to run your sct on a track like car 50/50 is probably good. But again , its just a guess.. Also lets not discount how many manufactures do this for a living & think otherwise..
The thing is, the manufacturers don't think otherwise. The original weight bias was more than likely a very balanced one, with a nose heavy 60/40 give or take 5%, toward the nose.
Considering what I was told about Tekno using a light weight low mah pack with a light weight RX8 ESC paired to a 540 motor with a light weight servo, I would imagine it would have been very balanced.

Unfortunately for many of us, especially on the east coast where the majority run on small to medium sized rutted, loamy, or both (less groomed) outdoor tracks than they do in Cali where this thing spawned.
Considering a loss in surface grip means we can't manage the throttle as well which causes burn outs randomly, we need beefier electronics to reliably do the job for a 10 minute main without hitting LVC by the time it's over.
Fact is, 90% or the SCT people, including myself are using more power than we can possibly lay down to the track to begin with.
This factor has it's highlights, but energy efficiency is not one of them.
Hence the larger motors and batteries.

That being said, since we do run heavier equipment we are penalized in the balance department. Hence the birth of mods, like the battery back trick and ESC behind the battery deal.

And while I can understand why you would think having a heavier static rear end weight bias would be beneficial, I can assure you it's not in the long run.
You have to realize that when accelerating a vehicle with as much suspension travel as these trucks have, inertial weight shift becomes apparent real quick.
When accelerating a 50/50 balanced vehicle, depending on G's pulled and various other little factors, the rear end all of a sudden becomes heavy automatically.
This destroys stability in the dirt, especially the loose stuff.
Typically, you will almost always want at least a 5% over-front weight in these conditions.
Having a front heavy vehicle makes it much easier to save from a spin out as well.
Understanding this concept paired with a 4WD is also the reason why I want my truck to land nose first off a jump that I will be accelerating away from once I land. That front end will plant the rear while pulling you straight if you set it down first while managing throttle, which is what baffles me about so many complaining about a nose down attitude off a jump.
I understand you don't want it to nose over to much, but some is more than acceptable and actually more optimal in my experience.

Think about what I have said and ask yourself why you don't see many full scale mid engine rock crawlers and dessert racers with that 50/50 weight bias.
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Old 05-01-2016, 06:48 AM   #3523
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
The thing is, the manufacturers don't think otherwise. The original weight bias was more than likely a very balanced one, with a nose heavy 60/40 give or take 5%, toward the nose.
Considering what I was told about Tekno using a light weight low mah pack with a light weight RX8 ESC paired to a 540 motor with a light weight servo, I would imagine it would have been very balanced.

Unfortunately for many of us, especially on the east coast where the majority run on small to medium sized rutted, loamy, or both (less groomed) outdoor tracks than they do in Cali where this thing spawned.
Considering a loss in surface grip means we can't manage the throttle as well which causes burn outs randomly, we need beefier electronics to reliably do the job for a 10 minute main without hitting LVC by the time it's over.
Fact is, 90% or the SCT people, including myself are using more power than we can possibly lay down to the track to begin with.
This factor has it's highlights, but energy efficiency is not one of them.
Hence the larger motors and batteries.

That being said, since we do run heavier equipment we are penalized in the balance department. Hence the birth of mods, like the battery back trick and ESC behind the battery deal.

And while I can understand why you would think having a heavier static rear end weight bias would be beneficial, I can assure you it's not in the long run.
You have to realize that when accelerating a vehicle with as much suspension travel as these trucks have, inertial weight shift becomes apparent real quick.
When accelerating a 50/50 balanced vehicle, depending on G's pulled and various other little factors, the rear end all of a sudden becomes heavy automatically.
This destroys stability in the dirt, especially the loose stuff.
Typically, you will almost always want at least a 5% over-front weight in these conditions.
Having a front heavy vehicle makes it much easier to save from a spin out as well.
Understanding this concept paired with a 4WD is also the reason why I want my truck to land nose first off a jump that I will be accelerating away from once I land. That front end will plant the rear while pulling you straight if you set it down first while managing throttle, which is what baffles me about so many complaining about a nose down attitude off a jump.
I understand you don't want it to nose over to much, but some is more than acceptable and actually more optimal in my experience.

Think about what I have said and ask yourself why you don't see many full scale mid engine rock crawlers and dessert racers with that 50/50 weight bias.
Finally!!

Someone who gets it and put it into words. The slight weight forward bias of the Tekno is THE reason I run their kits - if they where to change that, it would ruin this chassis.

The last thing you want in a 4WD chassis is to heel and toe over jumps. Nothing wrong with Tekno's weight bias.
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:10 AM   #3524
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You guys are all correct. I want a 50/50 left to right. But I also want more weight in the front. I want both so with the G-Force scales I ordered hopefully playing around with them and the electronics I can get both. And if I have to add a little weight somewhere to get both that is ok too. I have seen 30 grams of weight added where the brake servo mount is behind the lipo. I am going to get it 50/50 left and right and then play with stuff to get it with a more front bias. Like Lowes48 said this is not for front and rear balance change as it is to have 50/50 left and right. On a real high grip track stock my right front will dig in and turn hard or traction roll. So when I go up in spring or up in anti-roll bar to get it not to flip or dig in making a left hand turn its to stiff and will push the front or bring around the rear in a right hand turn. Its not terrible but its not perfect either. I do want my truck 50/50 left to right and go from there. I do run a Savox 1256tg and a Hobbywing SCT pro ESC. So im not sure how much extra weight I had over the right front. Motor wise I run the Hobbywing 4000kv and 18t pinion. Also metal servo arm. With all this talk I am want those scales now lol...
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:12 AM   #3525
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I agree I love this truck.. However with the worst case ultra parabolic jump half way down a straight.. She was more than nosing over, it would land perpendicular to the ground sometimes.. Then flip.

That's too much bias.

Yes, a well done launch off the jump will avoid it however in a race you can't always execute to plan.

I changed to a 5000mah pack and that also helped. Best of both worlds now.
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