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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-27-2016, 08:10 PM   #3496
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Originally Posted by Scottysspeedsho View Post
Has anyone tried VRP game changer Pistons yet ?
I'm running the VRP 5x1.5 on an indoor clay on my truck and my buggy. I love it.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:36 AM   #3497
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
I talked to the owner of VRP and he said there is design work going on with the game changers for the Tekno. He's apparently working directly with Ryan Lutz on coming up with a package. I'm going to give them a shot as soon as I hear that they have found something that works well.
It is a very interesting topic for sure. I have mixed opinions on it at the moment. The two stage deal is theoretically a good one, but then on the other hand you have Tekno pro's inverting the pistons, claiming a traction gain with a slower rebound and faster compression stroke. Both make sense when you think about it, but I am on the fence debating between the two as to why complete opposites are considered an improvement.
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:22 AM   #3498
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
To be honest,I don't think that the stock configuration have any thing to do with the nose down issues that a lot of people are complaining about.To me its more the set up such as springs,oil and perhaps the anti-squat that would have more influence with an attitude of the car in the air.
Here's a video of my truck(yellow/white) on a very good size triple without holding on to the throttle or using brake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3TGTug73lE
After looking at your vid again . That track really doesnt have much as far as size or quantity of jumps in comparison to the 4 tracks around here. Also, It looks as if most of the time your nose slightly down . And on most jumps truck lands on your drivers side front wheel almost all the time. Was this vid taken before the Mod ? Hope your not upset about these comments. So you know , Im in the middle of a build & would rather get these things out in the open up front ..

I guess my question is really : How much weight is needed & where , in order to counter balance a motors torque while in flight?
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:10 AM   #3499
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I know on my .3 running stock pistons, pink springs, 0 squat, and 40-35 or 45-40 oils depending on temp, helped make the rig jump nicely with a lot less nose down tendencies.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:45 PM   #3500
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I think he did the ESC move to help handling not so much the jumping. Having as close to even on all 4 tires would handle real nice. Lowes48 said in the original post somewhere that he wasnt doing this for nose down jumping but rather to balance the truck for the turns. Lowes correct me if im wrong.... Im going to do it and its to handle more even. I have for a long time noticed on a track like his that my truck digs in and almost traction rolls in left hand turns but hard to get the same in a right turn. I have played with roll centers and sway bars and if I get it going good to the left I skate around in right hand turns. Get it good in the right turns and its to soft for the left. In almost anything I drive I want 50/50 left to right. Now front to rear is driver choice and everyone likes it a little different.
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Old 04-28-2016, 03:47 PM   #3501
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Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
I think he did the ESC move to help handling not so much the jumping. Having as close to even on all 4 tires would handle real nice. Lowes48 said in the original post somewhere that he wasnt doing this for nose down jumping but rather to balance the truck for the turns. Lowes correct me if im wrong.... Im going to do it and its to handle more even. I have for a long time noticed on a track like his that my truck digs in and almost traction rolls in left hand turns but hard to get the same in a right turn. I have played with roll centers and sway bars and if I get it going good to the left I skate around in right hand turns. Get it good in the right turns and its to soft for the left. In almost anything I drive I want 50/50 left to right. Now front to rear is driver choice and everyone likes it a little different.
Taz is correct. That's just my driving style, on purpose I let off my throttle at the lip of the jump so my front end will land first so I can get on the throttle and get going sooner. Plus you'll have less time in the air with the nose slightly down to match the down side of the jump.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:10 PM   #3502
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Lowes48 did you keep the metal plate that was under your ESC that the screws went into?
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:25 PM   #3503
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Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
Lowes48 did you keep the metal plate that was under your ESC that the screws went into?
Did you mean the plastic plate that the ESC was mounted on ?
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:55 PM   #3504
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This doesn't have much to do with the current topic, but I just wanted to share this information. This website is awesome!!! It has pretty much all the info you would ever want to learn about car handling: Tires, Suspension, Alignment, Camber, Gearing, Aerodynamics, Weight Distribution, etc etc etc.... Check it out!!!!! You'll be an expert by the time you're done reading it all. Everything about R/C Vehicle Dynamics!

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:03 PM   #3505
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Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Very nice! I'm reconfiguring my electronics layout the same as yours to test it out except I'm leaving the receiver in the stock location.
I also noticed the rt side was heavier.. that got solved by slapping a big ass battery in there!

FYI - RJ Hart finally solved my nose over issues.. Just an FYI here is what I did

1. battery mod - saw this on a tekno team drivers truck
2. 1/2 oz stick on weight on the back left open space - also saw on team driver
3. heavier oil to resist slap and donkey kick.

AND THE THING THAT IMPROVED IT THE MOST??????

4. reduced my droop - that was night and day. that was the big fix.

Future:

5. Another item i'm going to try with this truck is a larger pinon. that will spin the tires faster and let me correct for nose overs with throttle.. current 15 tooth pinon doesn't quite rock the tires fast enough.

Advice with this truck - buy a very light servo, light esc (mount in back left location) and get a light motor like a pro4 3500 - no need for a pro4HD 4300 tank.

those mods will make this truck fly. The point is keep the weight to the rear, and what you have to have in front keep light.
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:46 AM   #3506
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
I also noticed the rt side was heavier.. that got solved by slapping a big ass battery in there!

FYI - RJ Hart finally solved my nose over issues.. Just an FYI here is what I did

1. battery mod - saw this on a tekno team drivers truck
2. 1/2 oz stick on weight on the back left open space - also saw on team driver
3. heavier oil to resist slap and donkey kick.

AND THE THING THAT IMPROVED IT THE MOST??????

4. reduced my droop - that was night and day. that was the big fix.

Future:

5. Another item i'm going to try with this truck is a larger pinon. that will spin the tires faster and let me correct for nose overs with throttle.. current 15 tooth pinon doesn't quite rock the tires fast enough.

Advice with this truck - buy a very light servo, light esc (mount in back left location) and get a light motor like a pro4 3500 - no need for a pro4HD 4300 tank.

those mods will make this truck fly. The point is keep the weight to the rear, and what you have to have in front keep light.
For clarity , what side of your car is the right side ? Is this the USA drivers side or passenger side?

So, if i'm reading this correctly , "dont" = balance weight front / rear? There should be more weight towards the rear ? So what is the weight difference we are after here? 60R/40F ?, 70R/30F ? .

Will increasing weight toward rear give up some on throttle steerability & front wheel traction on straight line hard acceleration ?

IMO, Its really kinda strange that placement of factory suggested components need to be altered so drastically to re- balance this truck.. But always willing to learn something...
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:10 AM   #3507
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Lowes48 Yea I meant the plastic plate the ESC was mounted to? And did you use the most forward or rearward lipo strap positions in the tray. Stock you can move the lipo slightly forward or rearward. After this I don't think I have any more questions lol.. Serp if were in the truck driving it. The USA passenger side front and rear tires carry 60% of the whole truck. This mod will make the weight left and right 50/50 Also front to rear closer to 50/50.
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:53 AM   #3508
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
For clarity , what side of your car is the right side ? Is this the USA drivers side or passenger side?

So, if i'm reading this correctly , "dont" = balance weight front / rear? There should be more weight towards the rear ? So what is the weight difference we are after here? 60R/40F ?, 70R/30F ? .

Will increasing weight toward rear give up some on throttle steerability & front wheel traction on straight line hard acceleration ?

IMO, Its really kinda strange that placement of factory suggested components need to be altered so drastically to re- balance this truck.. But always willing to learn something...
The truck was designed for medium to high traction (indoor clay) first, and then tuned for other surfaces. Generally, the higher the bite, the more forward weight bias you want, and on low bite you often want rear weight bias to help the rear lock in more. Those are generalities though, and also driver preferences. I actually moved more of my weight forward so the motor is the thing furthest back (rx and such are all up front).

Side to side weight adjustment is more important, and the truck is fairly balanced with a light ESC and 540 4 pole motor with full weight 2s stick pack. But, most people aren't running like that anymore. Many people have heavier and larger ESCs like the HW XR8 or Orion 8.1 pro, longer 550 can motors, larger pinions to deal with the lower kv and higher torque, heat sinks and fans hanging over the ESC/motor, and full aluminum servos. Battery tech has gotten better too, so we get more capacity, but not much of any more weight on that side. It still isn't horrible, but that's the primary reason you see a few people now trying to mess with the layout. That and they just like to have something to mess with. It is a hobby after all, not just racing.

If you're looking at doing these mods to fix your jumping, they might help a little, but they're not going to be the cure. Look to jump face construction (if everybody is having the issue), driving style at the jump (smooth vs letting off vs squirting up the face), and setup. Try making the front stiffer if squirting throttle up the face helps. Try making the back stiffer if squirting up the face hurts. Gear up so you get more in air wheel speed acceleration for corrections.

Most importantly, those that are messing with this already know, but don't do these mods and then expect any setups you find to work even reasonably well. You'll be doing all your own setup adjustment at that point.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:39 AM   #3509
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
The truck was designed for medium to high traction (indoor clay) first, and then tuned for other surfaces. Generally, the higher the bite, the more forward weight bias you want, and on low bite you often want rear weight bias to help the rear lock in more. Those are generalities though, and also driver preferences. I actually moved more of my weight forward so the motor is the thing furthest back (rx and such are all up front).

Side to side weight adjustment is more important, and the truck is fairly balanced with a light ESC and 540 4 pole motor with full weight 2s stick pack. But, most people aren't running like that anymore. Many people have heavier and larger ESCs like the HW XR8 or Orion 8.1 pro, longer 550 can motors, larger pinions to deal with the lower kv and higher torque, heat sinks and fans hanging over the ESC/motor, and full aluminum servos. Battery tech has gotten better too, so we get more capacity, but not much of any more weight on that side. It still isn't horrible, but that's the primary reason you see a few people now trying to mess with the layout. That and they just like to have something to mess with. It is a hobby after all, not just racing.

If you're looking at doing these mods to fix your jumping, they might help a little, but they're not going to be the cure. Look to jump face construction (if everybody is having the issue), driving style at the jump (smooth vs letting off vs squirting up the face), and setup. Try making the front stiffer if squirting throttle up the face helps. Try making the back stiffer if squirting up the face hurts. Gear up so you get more in air wheel speed acceleration for corrections.

Most importantly, those that are messing with this already know, but don't do these mods and then expect any setups you find to work even reasonably well. You'll be doing all your own setup adjustment at that point.
That's not entirely true. Jeremy McGuigan has the M2C chassis which has the battery back mod already in the design, placing the battery 10mm rearward.
Everything you read from his setups will be with that mod in place and is required to give you the results desired.
His setups and personal advice has never lead me wrong either. Everything I've done from his suggestions make the truck drive really good. Not once have I had any nose diving issues either.

Another thing some are doing, more seen on the buggies is the 1.5mm rear diff riser plate. That is said to free up the rear CV plunge angle during hard accelerations and provide a bit more rear push for those who like kicking the rear around a turn.

Last edited by Josh L; 04-29-2016 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 11:12 AM   #3510
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Another thing some are doing, more seen on the buggies is the 1.5mm rear diff riser plate. That is said to free up the rear CV plunge angle during hard accelerations and provide a bit more rear push for those who like kicking the rear around a turn.
I actually found the opposite true with the 1.5mm shim. My nitro buggy was real assy, and after I added the shim, it was much better. It still will whip around, but more controllable about 80% of the time than prior.
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