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Old 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-17-2016, 11:20 PM   #3436
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Yea , thats the one ! Im going to try to avoid hacking away at mount. If I decide to change body down the road then ill need to by mounts again But cant say im ruling out the dremel at this point..
I understand. I probably have about four sets of body mounts. The problem with the HF2 body in the rear is that it hits the Tekno body mounts right on body's ridge (sunken in part). One of the pics on the Tekno fb page shows this pretty good. I was down to either new body or cut the body mounts.
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:51 AM   #3437
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Two questions.

Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?

Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:21 AM   #3438
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With the 4000kv hobbywing motor, is there a chart somewhere to what the motor temp should be under with a 16, 17, and 18 pinion ?
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Old 04-18-2016, 12:59 PM   #3439
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With the 4000kv hobbywing motor, is there a chart somewhere to what the motor temp should be under with a 16, 17, and 18 pinion ?
No, but you should stay under 160, and below 180....I ran 18t on that motor just fine.
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:26 AM   #3440
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
Two questions.

Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?

Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
Ideally, you can try the same setup and see if it works for you, but in reality I think you'll need to make changes to optimize the performance of the truck.
I imagine there is probably quite a difference in grip levels, and track layout between the two tracks so tires, shock oils, diff oils, etc., may need to be honed in on for the track.

I'm in the same boat as you actually. I'm going from indoor to outdoor but at multiple tracks. So I'm starting with the same oils and setup as my initial indoor setup for my outdoor, but I imagine I will need to detune the steering to calm it down for outdoors.
Reasoning? the indoor track I run is very tight and high bite, the outdoor tracks are low-medium grip with much larger jumps.

On your second question, no that isn't normal. It should assemble nice and free. I would pull it, remove it, pull the gears and all washers out, inspect it, then rebuild it to eliminate the possibility that something was assembled incorrectly.
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:37 AM   #3441
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Truck has never been used, it's brand new.
Yes sir, the collars are all the way up

Collars up, droop measured on the flat part of the chassis you should be able to get 24mm-22mm up front no issues. It may take a few packs or practices for the springs to settle but I didn't notice much difference there.

Again, make double sure you are measuring ride height from the flat part of the chassis behind the front wheels, not on the flat part on the front since it kicks up and will be several mm taller. This is very easy to overlook on the truck especially if you have a body on.

If you want you can PM me and I'll send you my phone number and I can help you out if needed via texting.
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:58 AM   #3442
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Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Collars up, droop measured on the flat part of the chassis you should be able to get 24mm-22mm up front no issues. It may take a few packs or practices for the springs to settle but I didn't notice much difference there.

Again, make double sure you are measuring ride height from the flat part of the chassis behind the front wheels, not on the flat part on the front since it kicks up and will be several mm taller. This is very easy to overlook on the truck especially if you have a body on.

If you want you can PM me and I'll send you my phone number and I can help you out if needed via texting.
i took the truck to the track this weekend, and after I got home I can get the ride height to 24, front and back with the collars all the way up.
Getting this thing on some dirt eased my mind a bit, it's the first kit I ever built and with the 900 adjustments that can be made to it, it was a bit overwhelming at first compared to an Rtr that you throw on the track and push go. I was into Rc planes before this, and I thought tuning a plane was complex...getting a car/truck tweaked the right way seems a little more complicated
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:49 PM   #3443
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
Two questions.

Normally I run on an indoor clay track however the outdoor track in my town is coming back to life. Besides a different set of super soft tires, are there really any changes I'll need to make? I don't want to necessarily reset my shock oils to something heavier to compensate higher temps each time I switch. Basically how can I cheat to cut down on setup to run a loamy outdoor track?
I generally find I don't change too much as I want slightly softer for the more rough outdoor and stiffer for more response indoor, and the temp change often takes care of that for me on shock oils. What I do change often between tracks is squat, camber, and droop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
This is normal after doing several rebuilds or having the gasket in there tight for a long time and then doing a rebuild. The gasket is just thinner now due to compression, so replacing the gasket should resolve the issue.
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:06 PM   #3444
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
Two questions.

Second, the last time I rebuilt my center diff, when I tightened the spur gear down the diff started binding. Is this normal? I ask because I'm worried I may have a leak if I don't tighten it down enough. Should I invest in a new gasket or a whole new diff case?
I ran into this on my 410.3. Turns out that piece in the middle of my spur gear that the black shim rests on was taller than usual when compared to spare spur gear. Don't know that that is the problem, but it may be worth looking at.
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:21 PM   #3445
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Are there wheels that I can use with proline gladiators that are the same type of wheel like the aka cyclone wheels ? The F 11's that I'm using now are to wide
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:21 AM   #3446
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Are there wheels that I can use with proline gladiators that are the same type of wheel like the aka cyclone wheels ? The F 11's that I'm using now are to wide
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...a23006/p225757
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:46 AM   #3447
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Tires & Rims suggestions-

Tires- Shopping for a more durable practice tire that wears good . Im willing to sacrifice some performance for longevity. This is the hardest Compound I could find in pins : PRO1169-01 - Pro-Line Gladiator SC 2.2"/3.0" Short Course Truck Tires (2) (M2). Better Options?

Rims - Shopping for something thats going to last . Maybe these ,JCO3352B - JConcepts 12mm Hex Hazard Short Course Wheels (Black) (2) (TEN-SCTE). The reviews Ive come across are pretty bad on all rims that fit this truck . IDK..
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:02 AM   #3448
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So I can use cyclone wheels With proline gladiator tires ?

Last edited by weedsnager; 04-22-2016 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:47 AM   #3449
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So I can use cyclone wheels With proline gladiator tires ?

Proline does make a zero offset F11 that works. That's what I use.

Make sure you use zero offset rims for the tekno or Losi SCTE they are the same offset.

Proline tires and aka rims shouldn't be an issue either.
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Old 04-23-2016, 02:25 PM   #3450
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
Tires & Rims suggestions-

Tires- Shopping for a more durable practice tire that wears good . Im willing to sacrifice some performance for longevity. This is the hardest Compound I could find in pins : PRO1169-01 - Pro-Line Gladiator SC 2.2"/3.0" Short Course Truck Tires (2) (M2). Better Options?

Rims - Shopping for something thats going to last . Maybe these ,JCO3352B - JConcepts 12mm Hex Hazard Short Course Wheels (Black) (2) (TEN-SCTE). The reviews Ive come across are pretty bad on all rims that fit this truck . IDK..
Rims - try de racing for scte. Many like their speedline wheels, but they all work for me.

Tires - depends on what you are practicing on and how they eat tires. My soft blockades have lasted three years tho I didn't use them as much last year. Maybe enduros or big blox too.

Last edited by qstorm777; 04-23-2016 at 02:51 PM.
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