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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-11-2016, 08:39 PM   #3211
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Well diff cases were flip flopped. I really appreciate the assistance. I cant believe i didn't catch that!
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:06 AM   #3212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
Does anybody know if Tekno is still working on a setup guide or was this just rumor?
I have never seen a link on the Tekno web site, but it's out on the web. If you do a google search for "tekno setup guide" or "tekno sct410.3 traction roll" it will show up in the search results. Look it over, lots of good information.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:50 AM   #3213
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I started using the buggy body this winter to keep the snow out. Worked perfect.
Used Velcro on the sides with no other fasteners.
For the summer I was planning to cut out some vents, figuring next winter to tape them closed.
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:50 AM   #3214
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What buggy body do you use ken?
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:29 AM   #3215
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Had my first Tekin ESC failure this week. The internal BEC apparently went bad in my RX8 Gen 2. I'm going through the RMA process, but since I don't have the original receipt, I'm guessing it's going to cost about as much to repair as it is to buy a new one? Anyone have experience dealing with Tekin repair/replacement? The ESC has seen less than 2 months of use and less than 10 hours of actual use...this is a real let down.

I'm using 100C battery packs and Deans connectors. What are you guys using for connectors and lipos? If I get the ESC back, I'm thinking of moving away from the Deans connectors and maybe giving XT60's or Traxxas connectors a try...or maybe even straight 5mm bullets but the ESC doesn't have reverse polarity protection and I don't trust myself not to make that mistake.
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:28 AM   #3216
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I used Deans for a long time but they just did not hold up over time in the SCT and 1/8 buggy. I changed over to the EC5s and I'm glad I did. Get the bullet type not the ones with the cage around the male end (like a banana plug). They stay tight and are easier to connect and disconnect. they are also much easier to solder because they use a solder cup not a flat blade like Deans or Traxxas.
They are indexed so they cannot be connected backwards. I also got 10 sets for $14 on ebay.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:10 AM   #3217
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Thank you. Do you have a link to the specific type you're talking about. I purchased these a while ago and still have a few left, but I'll have to buy more if I'm going to redo all of my batteries for the SCT.

http://www.motionrc.com/ec5-connectors-pair/

appear to be the same as these

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...e_Female_.html

These seem to be the best option:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pair-EC5-B...QAAOSwmUdUXHh9
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:30 AM   #3218
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the nice EC5 connectors are also available on SMC site.
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...tegory&path=66
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:36 AM   #3219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fidelity101 View Post
using 100C battery packs and Deans connectors. What are you guys using for connectors and lipos? If I get the ESC back, I'm thinking of moving away from the Deans connectors and maybe giving XT60's or Traxxas connectors a try...or maybe even straight 5mm bullets but the ESC doesn't have reverse polarity protection and I don't trust myself not to make that mistake.
I smoked a Mamba Max Pro by connecting the bullets backwards. Replaced it with an RX8 and plugged that in backwards, but this time only ruined a battery.

Then I learned the trick of cutting one side short enough (in my case the negative side) that it won't reach to the wrong polarity.

Never had a problem since.

Shanon
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:37 AM   #3220
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Fidelity I used these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pairs-Mal.../191271182867?
But any of the suggestions above are ok too.
I would NOT recommend this type:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Pair-EC5-B...TPDXHyDkCdo5UQ
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:04 PM   #3221
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Thanks guys. I think I'm going to go with 5mm Gold Plated bullets and cut them to length so I can't accidentally short them out. Thanks for the thought shanondink. It works well on my TLR 22SCT 2.0 but the leads are extremely short. For some reason, I didn't even think about doing that with my Tekno SCT410.

I'll have to work on it when the RX8 comes back from repair. Hopefully it doesn't cost more than $100 to repair the internal BEC.
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:20 PM   #3222
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I was giving pavement a try for the first time, it's a little cleaner lol. I tore the car down last night cleaning, and used some Trinity royal oil on all the bearings. Cleaned and, re greased my CVD's.

I had everything looking new and fresh again!

So I headed for some pavement for top speed checking. I was consistently running 48.5 MPH . This is on 2S and a 17t pinion. 4600KV Tekin PRO4, W/ RX8 Gen 2.

Anyways, I broke the very front A brace. It ties the front A arms together, and supports these massive 4.3mm hinge pins.

I was only going about 5 mph and clipped something. It must have already been fractured or weak.

Glad to see it just snapped and broke away freely! No broken A-arms, no bents CVD's, no broken tie rods, just the a brace.

And I admit , I was bashing hard 3 days straight! 4 foot jumps, hard landings.

What should I replace this with?
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:43 PM   #3223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
I was giving pavement a try for the first time, it's a little cleaner lol. I tore the car down last night cleaning, and used some Trinity royal oil on all the bearings. Cleaned and, re greased my CVD's.

I had everything looking new and fresh again!

So I headed for some pavement for top speed checking. I was consistently running 48.5 MPH . This is on 2S and a 17t pinion. 4600KV Tekin PRO4, W/ RX8 Gen 2.

Anyways, I broke the very front A brace. It ties the front A arms together, and supports these massive 4.3mm hinge pins.

I was only going about 5 mph and clipped something. It must have already been fractured or weak.

Glad to see it just snapped and broke away freely! No broken A-arms, no bents CVD's, no broken tie rods, just the a brace.

And I admit , I was bashing hard 3 days straight! 4 foot jumps, hard landings.

What should I replace this with?
It's really the only weak part on the kit. Replace with a nice ally upgrade TKR5161
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:39 PM   #3224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fidelity101 View Post
Had my first Tekin ESC failure this week. The internal BEC apparently went bad in my RX8 Gen 2. I'm going through the RMA process, but since I don't have the original receipt, I'm guessing it's going to cost about as much to repair as it is to buy a new one? Anyone have experience dealing with Tekin repair/replacement? The ESC has seen less than 2 months of use and less than 10 hours of actual use...this is a real let down.

I'm using 100C battery packs and Deans connectors. What are you guys using for connectors and lipos? If I get the ESC back, I'm thinking of moving away from the Deans connectors and maybe giving XT60's or Traxxas connectors a try...or maybe even straight 5mm bullets but the ESC doesn't have reverse polarity protection and I don't trust myself not to make that mistake.
Tekin generally has very good customer service that will try to help you out. I've also heard they can tell exactly how much run time the ESC has had on it, so if it is just 10 hours I'd be surprised if they don't help you out and take care of quite a lot of it.

100c isn't really a good measure. Many high C packs are actually junk, and many high C packs are on smaller mah packs. To explain those statements, C rating as put on the sticker is pretty much a giant farse across the whole battery industry, and isn't comparable brand to brand. As for the second part, the current you can theoretically pull is mah x C (actual, not the fake sticker stuff, but there's no REAL even measurement of this), so having a 7200 pack instead of a 5000 packs is much more effective than moving up to 100c as a general rule, even if you're not going to use the whole capacity of the pack in the time you need to run (such as a 5 minute race). Please note that I'm not calling your battery bad, just pointing out that other things matter more than 100C.

As for connectors, we pull silly amps through these things because of the 2s limit, which creates heat much faster. I would avoid the XT60s for this application. While great connectors, the XT90s or EC5s are a much better fit. Of note, the XT60/90 are so numbered because that's the constant amperage they're rated for. We burst a lot higher, but the average works out pretty ok there. I switched from 4mm bullets on the SC and Deans on the 8th scale to all XT90 for these vehicles (still use 4mm bullets for the small 10th scale stuff, just due to cleanliness and less wire weight/management). I'm quite happy with them, as they hold fast and stay clean and are super easy to solder. The bonus is that they even let the wire rotate to reduce wire strain unless you super heat them and melt the connection into place while soldering it up. Many higher end pro drivers also still use Traxxas connectors, because they hold up well and handle the loads pretty well too. The biggest benefit to any kind of connector over inboard is that if it gets worn out or too dirty to clean anymore, you can just swap the connector and keep going, vs having to stop using the battery if it is all inboard bullets.
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Old 03-13-2016, 04:43 AM   #3225
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Jconcepts chassis protectors- Which model # fits ? Or can be trimmed down ?
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