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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-07-2016, 03:20 AM   #3166
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anyone have an idiots guide to using the pills in the back of the truck to adjust antisquat and toe in? i have a load of pills but cant find a guide as to what pills do what? any help appreciated
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Old 03-07-2016, 05:31 AM   #3167
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Originally Posted by szymanski2oo1 View Post
anyone have an idiots guide to using the pills in the back of the truck to adjust antisquat and toe in? i have a load of pills but cant find a guide as to what pills do what? any help appreciated
So, if you look at a setup sheet. One dot is a a full 1 degree change. Two dots are .5 change. If you are using the composite C and D blocks. The center hole on C gives you 3 degrees of antisquat and center dot on D would give you 3 toe. So if you were to do 1 dot straight down on C and 1 dot straight right on D you would have 2 degrees of antisquat and 4 degrees of toe. ( all in the center position). Where it gets fun. You can play with the LRC and lower the whole roll center by moving the dots to the corners. I don't have the exact degrees yet but when you put the dots in the corners according to the setup sheets you could lower the rollcenter of the whole rear by 1 degree and still maintain a 3 degree of toe.
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:50 AM   #3168
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yep thats whats throwing me... you can orientate the pills any way up/down etc etc and in the instructions is only explains the orientation of the pills for the stock setup ... but im trying to get to 1 degree anti squat and stock toe in ( which i think is 3 degrees ) using the composite blocks I have.

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Originally Posted by tfrankito View Post
So, if you look at a setup sheet. One dot is a a full 1 degree change. Two dots are .5 change. If you are using the composite C and D blocks. The center hole on C gives you 3 degrees of antisquat and center dot on D would give you 3 toe. So if you were to do 1 dot straight down on C and 1 dot straight right on D you would have 2 degrees of antisquat and 4 degrees of toe. ( all in the center position). Where it gets fun. You can play with the LRC and lower the whole roll center by moving the dots to the corners. I don't have the exact degrees yet but when you put the dots in the corners according to the setup sheets you could lower the rollcenter of the whole rear by 1 degree and still maintain a 3 degree of toe.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:38 AM   #3169
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Originally Posted by szymanski2oo1 View Post
yep thats whats throwing me... you can orientate the pills any way up/down etc etc and in the instructions is only explains the orientation of the pills for the stock setup ... but im trying to get to 1 degree anti squat and stock toe in ( which i think is 3 degrees ) using the composite blocks I have.
Go all the way down center on C block and all the way up center on D block (for 3 degrees toe), using the stock composite blocks. Stock setting is 2 degrees toe which would be all the way up inside D block.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:03 AM   #3170
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all the way down...... as in I use a pill that shows a single dot in the centre bottom of it? and then when looking at the back of the C block i would be able to see the dot at the bottom? sorry im a bit thick when it comes to these things!


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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi View Post
Go all the way down center on C block and all the way up center on D block (for 3 degrees toe), using the stock composite blocks. Stock setting is 2 degrees toe which would be all the way up inside D block.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:58 AM   #3171
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Anyone tried the Tacon 4800kv 550 sized sensored 4pole motor in the SCT410.3? If so what are your thought.. Seems ok, but going to the track today.. $50 motor had to try it.. ESC is a Hobbywing SCT PRO. Please thet me know any personal experiences..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOBBYWING-Xe...EAAOSwrx5UU5Xv

http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m921-sen...66-kv4800.html
I use that Tacon 4pole 550 motor with the SCT Pro ESC in my SCTE (modded 1.0 version, not quite as heavy as the Tekno but heavier than the 2.0) and it works really well for me. A bit better (runs faster and cooler with the same 14 or 15 tooth pinion) than my 550 size TenShock 411 4600 kv motor.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:55 AM   #3172
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This may have been discussed, but does anybody know if any other manufacturers shock collars work on this truck? Looking to add some color?
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:31 PM   #3173
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Originally Posted by szymanski2oo1 View Post
all the way down...... as in I use a pill that shows a single dot in the centre bottom of it? and then when looking at the back of the C block i would be able to see the dot at the bottom? sorry im a bit thick when it comes to these things!
Yes put the insert in the C block exactly how it shows in the manual. Then on the D block instead of having the dot in the lower inside corners like stock you want it in the upper inside corners, or use the same insert as the C block just turned over so the dot is middle top for 3 degrees toe.
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:33 PM   #3174
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right perfect thank you im on it!


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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi View Post
Yes put the insert in the C block exactly how it shows in the manual. Then on the D block instead of having the dot in the lower inside corners like stock you want it in the upper inside corners, or use the same insert as the C block just turned over so the dot is middle top for 3 degrees toe.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:10 PM   #3175
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Tekin Pro4 4600KV came in the mail today I picked up on the forums here! And then I raced to Hangar 18 rc shop in Cary, NC to grab a RX8 Gen2 for $199.00.

This was going to be a budget build but. It just does not work out like that in this hobby. I've got right at $1,000 invested so far. that includes truck, esc, motor, radio, (1) battery, cheap charger, tires, wheels, body. And I'm not done . If my wife only knew.

Tekin could have it least thrown in a sensor wire, nor the motor or rx8 came with one lol.

It's almost ready though! After I get some solder tomorrow , I will get to test out all of my hard work, and the wore out finger tips have paid off.
Is 12 gauge wire enough? Or should I use a bigger gauge?



Last edited by tps3443; 03-07-2016 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 03-08-2016, 03:20 AM   #3176
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i run 12 awg , i would match it to what ever guage is coming out of your battery which im guessing is 12 awg anyway that way everything is the same
i used to use 10 awg but it was a pain to solder , needed a better soldering iron and the cables were more of a fiddle to fit on the gold posts neatly.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
Tekin Pro4 4600KV came in the mail today I picked up on the forums here! And then I raced to Hangar 18 rc shop in Cary, NC to grab a RX8 Gen2 for $199.00.

This was going to be a budget build but. It just does not work out like that in this hobby. I've got right at $1,000 invested so far. that includes truck, esc, motor, radio, (1) battery, cheap charger, tires, wheels, body. And I'm not done . If my wife only knew.

Tekin could have it least thrown in a sensor wire, nor the motor or rx8 came with one lol.

It's almost ready though! After I get some solder tomorrow , I will get to test out all of my hard work, and the wore out finger tips have paid off.
Is 12 gauge wire enough? Or should I use a bigger gauge?


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Old 03-08-2016, 03:40 AM   #3177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by szymanski2oo1 View Post
i run 12 awg , i would match it to what ever guage is coming out of your battery which im guessing is 12 awg anyway that way everything is the same
i used to use 10 awg but it was a pain to solder , needed a better soldering iron and the cables were more of a fiddle to fit on the gold posts neatly.
It's not hard to solder large wires at all if you use the wire wrap method for soldering things together.
Flite-test has the perfect demo on this, but it also works with a large wire against a solid post to, just a slightly different initial approach.

Wire Wrap Solder Method
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Old 03-08-2016, 03:48 AM   #3178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
It's not hard to solder large wires at all if you use the wire wrap method for soldering things together.
Flite-test has the perfect demo on this, but it also works with a large wire against a solid post to, just a slightly different initial approach.
Why do you guys say sodder? its soLder

Good vid though
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:04 AM   #3179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
Tekin Pro4 4600KV came in the mail today I picked up on the forums here! And then I raced to Hangar 18 rc shop in Cary, NC to grab a RX8 Gen2 for $199.00.

This was going to be a budget build but. It just does not work out like that in this hobby. I've got right at $1,000 invested so far. that includes truck, esc, motor, radio, (1) battery, cheap charger, tires, wheels, body. And I'm not done . If my wife only knew.

Tekin could have it least thrown in a sensor wire, nor the motor or rx8 came with one lol.

It's almost ready though! After I get some solder tomorrow , I will get to test out all of my hard work, and the wore out finger tips have paid off.
Is 12 gauge wire enough? Or should I use a bigger gauge?


I would contact Tekin, the motors always come with sensor wires, at least they used to. All of my Tekin motors did.
12g wire is plenty. Many like larger gauge but Tekin has said publicly that 12g is more than enough for 1/8 scale applications. I have used the stock Tekin wire that comes with the ESC but I like Deans Wet Noodle or similar.
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:08 AM   #3180
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ah cool will take a look cheers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
It's not hard to solder large wires at all if you use the wire wrap method for soldering things together.
Flite-test has the perfect demo on this, but it also works with a large wire against a solid post to, just a slightly different initial approach.

Wire Wrap Solder Method
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