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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-04-2016, 08:42 AM   #3136
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Hey gang, was reading this thread and have a couple quick questions if you don't mind.

I'm toying with the idea of getting a 1/10 4wd sc. So far the tekno has been the one to grab my attention. I run on a backyard track, don't have a club to race around here. Since I'm not limited to rules, I would like to be able to run a 3s pack. My reasons for during so are not really for more power, it's just the weight of sc trucks have me a little concerned about heat. So I'm wondering can you stuff a 3s into these units?

Also, this would be my first SC. I'm just not really a fan of short course, nothing against them they just never turned my crank. I'd be down for a 4wd stadium truck type deal but for the most part they don't exist. For you guys that own the tekno, do you think it would be fairly easy to convert to more of a stadium truck type setup? I've looked at a few conversions that have been done with stampedes, but I'm not a traxxis fan and the OFNA hyper tt by all accounts has durability issues and with OFNA kinda being up in the air right now I don't want to take a chance. What do you guys think? Fiddle with body mounts, cut the bumpers off and fiddle with tires to get a stadium truck type deal or just be happy with what it is and run it?

Any help would be mucho appreciated!
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:07 AM   #3137
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Default Suspension tuning

I've been at this SCT thing for a whopping four months, but have been testing and tuning this things several times a week at two different tracks - both hard clay with dust 1/8 outdoor, one flowing and the other has big jumps. Like many on here, I have been playing with shock oils and springs, but with mixed results. After talking to a race engineer I learned some valuable info. Basically, to tune compression use springs, to tune to track surface use oils. The spring is what keeps the chassis off the dirt, the oil is what keeps the tire on the dirt.

So, use the softest spring you can that still keeps the chassis from touching the track, then choose the oils based on loose or tight conditions - including ruts vs smooth, etc.

Using oil to control compression prevents the spring from working properly. Using the spring to control loose or tight can result in dragging the ground or nosing over on jumps.

After putting this info into play, I was able to jump and land smoothly, and tune the loose condition out of the truck. My choices ended up being green springs all around, 35wt front/ 30wt rear w/ 28mm/27mm ride heights. Not that that necessarily would apply to anyone else's track or driving style.

Anyway, the engineer's advice worked.
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Old 03-05-2016, 05:43 AM   #3138
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Anyone have luck with an 11t pinion? The manual states that its an option but the mount wont allow the motor to get close enough to mesh. Trying to slow it down for my young boys to learn to drive.

jB
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Old 03-05-2016, 05:55 AM   #3139
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I retract my last statement as I can't find anything that shows this actually fits:
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5415b...-nt48-revised/

If it does, it would be the best way to go. If not, you can always drop down a cell (3S to 2S as an example), lower the timing on the motor, and put in the smallest pinion that will fit. Other than that, hopefully someone can confirm a spur gear (larger than 44T stock) that fits the 410.3
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:04 AM   #3140
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Originally Posted by fidelity101 View Post
I retract my last statement as I can't find anything that shows this actually fits:
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5415b...-nt48-revised/

If it does, it would be the best way to go. If not, you can always drop down a cell (3S to 2S as an example), lower the timing on the motor, and put in the smallest pinion that will fit. Other than that, hopefully someone can confirm a spur gear (larger than 44T stock) that fits the 410.3
im at 2s already. gonna do some EPA adjust but dont want to go much lower than 80%.

looks like there is no plastic version of a 48t. I guess i could go with a slower motor too. Was hoping to do this for minimum money. HAHAHAHA! When does RC and minimum money ever happen?!

jB
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:12 AM   #3141
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Originally Posted by Jason Baliban View Post
Anyone have luck with an 11t pinion? The manual states that its an option but the mount wont allow the motor to get close enough to mesh. Trying to slow it down for my young boys to learn to drive.

jB
Just use the throttle end point to slow it down. Leave the standard gearing you have been running and reduce the end point on the throttle to 50 percent. As he gets better at driving and can handle more you can add more power back in slowly with a simple radio adjustment.

I use this method as I am teaching my nephew how to race and its very quick and simple.

The other downside to a large gearing change is that running a motor with that low of gearing tends to make the motor Rev really high and run really hot. It's better better for the health of the motor and esc and battery to keep the gearing in the sweet spot and reduce the speed and power with the throttle end point.
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:21 AM   #3142
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Originally Posted by Jason Baliban View Post
Anyone have luck with an 11t pinion? The manual states that its an option but the mount wont allow the motor to get close enough to mesh. Trying to slow it down for my young boys to learn to drive.

jB
I just use the throttle end point for my daughter. It's easier and if they pick it up quicker than you thought, you can just add a little more. I run the LRP 3700 10L and around 45% - 50% is right where she likes it...not enough to sky jumps but not enough to break my truck either LOL
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:21 AM   #3143
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Originally Posted by Scott_J View Post
I've been at this SCT thing for a whopping four months, but have been testing and tuning this things several times a week at two different tracks - both hard clay with dust 1/8 outdoor, one flowing and the other has big jumps. Like many on here, I have been playing with shock oils and springs, but with mixed results. After talking to a race engineer I learned some valuable info. Basically, to tune compression use springs, to tune to track surface use oils. The spring is what keeps the chassis off the dirt, the oil is what keeps the tire on the dirt.

So, use the softest spring you can that still keeps the chassis from touching the track, then choose the oils based on loose or tight conditions - including ruts vs smooth, etc.

Using oil to control compression prevents the spring from working properly. Using the spring to control loose or tight can result in dragging the ground or nosing over on jumps.

After putting this info into play, I was able to jump and land smoothly, and tune the loose condition out of the truck. My choices ended up being green springs all around, 35wt front/ 30wt rear w/ 28mm/27mm ride heights. Not that that necessarily would apply to anyone else's track or driving style.

Anyway, the engineer's advice worked.
What pistons are you using?
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:25 AM   #3144
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Originally Posted by Deaner View Post
Hey gang, was reading this thread and have a couple quick questions if you don't mind.

I'm toying with the idea of getting a 1/10 4wd sc. So far the tekno has been the one to grab my attention. I run on a backyard track, don't have a club to race around here. Since I'm not limited to rules, I would like to be able to run a 3s pack. My reasons for during so are not really for more power, it's just the weight of sc trucks have me a little concerned about heat. So I'm wondering can you stuff a 3s into these units?

Also, this would be my first SC. I'm just not really a fan of short course, nothing against them they just never turned my crank. I'd be down for a 4wd stadium truck type deal but for the most part they don't exist. For you guys that own the tekno, do you think it would be fairly easy to convert to more of a stadium truck type setup? I've looked at a few conversions that have been done with stampedes, but I'm not a traxxis fan and the OFNA hyper tt by all accounts has durability issues and with OFNA kinda being up in the air right now I don't want to take a chance. What do you guys think? Fiddle with body mounts, cut the bumpers off and fiddle with tires to get a stadium truck type deal or just be happy with what it is and run it?

Any help would be mucho appreciated!
I am a bit confused by your choice with the 410.3? I know your not meaning any disrespect, but at the same time you want to de-optimize a chassis from being what it is, because what you want what already isn't good enough to begin with.
It's the same thing as turning a buggy into a truggy, only not as good as a truggy. For various reasons. The Tekno SCT is plenty strong enough to handle 3S, but your dealing with 12mm hubs on 5mm spindles for one, instead of the 17mm hubs the truggy has. The weakness in a high powered open wheel system would be felt in the wheels that we use. You would be far more likely to strip or break a wheel in the event of a hard landing or crash from constant bashing. I I where you, I would either run this truck as is or get a truggy and set it up lower profile like your wanting to do.
You have to remember that the SCT class is somewhat unforgiving in certain ways. We are ROAR bound to 2S setups, and we have the luxury of an over the wheels bodies to protect things. Anything you do to increase weight and change the intended design will be felt more than you'd probably want because you are unbalancing the system.
I honestly feel like you would be a lot better off just picking up a ET48.
If you don't want to hit the higher price tag, you can always find a used last gen that will be way more than adequate to accomplish what your wanting to do.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_J View Post
I've been at this SCT thing for a whopping four months, but have been testing and tuning this things several times a week at two different tracks - both hard clay with dust 1/8 outdoor, one flowing and the other has big jumps. Like many on here, I have been playing with shock oils and springs, but with mixed results. After talking to a race engineer I learned some valuable info. Basically, to tune compression use springs, to tune to track surface use oils. The spring is what keeps the chassis off the dirt, the oil is what keeps the tire on the dirt.

So, use the softest spring you can that still keeps the chassis from touching the track, then choose the oils based on loose or tight conditions - including ruts vs smooth, etc.

Using oil to control compression prevents the spring from working properly. Using the spring to control loose or tight can result in dragging the ground or nosing over on jumps.

After putting this info into play, I was able to jump and land smoothly, and tune the loose condition out of the truck. My choices ended up being green springs all around, 35wt front/ 30wt rear w/ 28mm/27mm ride heights. Not that that necessarily would apply to anyone else's track or driving style.

Anyway, the engineer's advice worked.
I agree with your logic, but you forgot one of the most important things to getting those shocks dialed in.
The pistons.
You don't necessarily always want to move up on your spring if you can correct the ground slapping problem by adjusting pack rate.
Try running 6 hole 1.5's vs the stocks and you'll get much better consistency.
Do something weird, and run those pistons upside down to.
You will stay more planted doing this.

Anyhow, unless your on a really smooth high bite track, its a good idea to keep the shock weight down to eat up ruts and reduce proposing.
First and foremost I suggest that people do the battery tray mod and move that pack as far back as possible. This truck is way to nose heavy otherwise, and it seems to cause the rear end to want to prematurely break traction around the hooks and when running the heavy center diff fluid.
The Tekno balances much more correctly when using anything past a 5000mah pack, especially with anything heavier than an RX8 ESC.
If your running a 7200 or even 8000 mah pack like many are, it's pretty much imperative that you cut the battery tray and move that pack back 10mm, and shows exactly why the M2C chassis comes with the option standardized.

This truck is well known to be very nose heavy and that is a lot of the reason so many people have to take out all the anti-squat and run heavy forward springs. The balance issue is the biggest things that needs to be worked out before you do anything else, or your just performing a band-aid and losing some of the trucks capable features that play into a well balanced system.
When you get this right, you can then bring some of that rear anti-squat back in to work with the truck instead of against it.
That alone makes the mod worth it, just because your giving back to the system another fine tuning ability otherwise lost.
I hope this makes sense to everyone, but if not I will go into detail further.
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:49 AM   #3145
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I am a bit confused by your choice with the 410.3? I know your not meaning any disrespect, but at the same time you want to de-optimize a chassis from being what it is, because what you want what already isn't good enough to begin with.
It's the same thing as turning a buggy into a truggy, only not as good as a truggy. For various reasons. The Tekno SCT is plenty strong enough to handle 3S, but your dealing with 12mm hubs on 5mm spindles for one, instead of the 17mm hubs the truggy has. The weakness in a high powered open wheel system would be felt in the wheels that we use. You would be far more likely to strip or break a wheel in the event of a hard landing or crash from constant bashing. I I where you, I would either run this truck as is or get a truggy and set it up lower profile like your wanting to do.
You have to remember that the SCT class is somewhat unforgiving in certain ways. We are ROAR bound to 2S setups, and we have the luxury of an over the wheels bodies to protect things. Anything you do to increase weight and change the intended design will be felt more than you'd probably want because you are unbalancing the system.
I honestly feel like you would be a lot better off just picking up a ET48.
If you don't want to hit the higher price tag, you can always find a used last gen that will be way more than adequate to accomplish what your wanting to do.
My reason for wanting to try something like this out is to run on my backyard track that is suited more towards 1/10 than 1/8. I can run my 1/8 ebuggy, it's tight but manageable. My mugen e truggy is simply too large, that's why I'm looking for something different. I'm a fan of open wheel and it wouldn't be a basher.

If I decide to go for a 4wd truck maybe I'll just pick one up and live with it as is. I like the tekno design, it looks tough as nails. All I wanted to do was to see if I could make a stadium truck body fit, hack off the bumpers and extra unnecessary weight and go to town. The market is very limited for 1/10 4wd open wheel trucks. I'd just go with the older hyper tt design and live with the questionable reliability if I could get parts but OFNAs future being up in the air has me gun shy.

I understand your point totally about being limited to ROAR rules, and the trucks design reflects that. I wouldn't want to have a oddball unbalanced chassis with a 3s setup, just looking for a little more efficient system. I just have one more question is you guys don't mind, I'm wondering what the running weight is of your trucks with a typical 2s setup?

I don't know, maybe the dream has died and I should just be happy running 1/10 2wd and 4wd buggies.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:32 AM   #3146
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Originally Posted by Deaner View Post
"I wouldn't want to have a oddball unbalanced chassis with a 3s setup, just looking for a little more efficient system."
you could achieve very similar weight distribution with 3s lipo even with 4s. i dont know how little the change in efficiency in 3s setup but it makes huge difference in terms of temperature of the electronics which extend longevity of electronics and battery. Thats why people want to go this way.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:46 AM   #3147
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Originally Posted by murat61 View Post
you could achieve very similar weight distribution with 3s lipo even with 4s. i dont know how little the change in efficiency in 3s setup but it makes huge difference in terms of temperature of the electronics which extend longevity of electronics and battery. Thats why people want to go this way.
Which is exactly why I'm thinking that way, lower kv motor with extra volts and try and keep temps down and run times up with the beefy truck.
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Old 03-05-2016, 01:15 PM   #3148
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I am a bit confused by your choice with the 410.3? I know your not meaning any disrespect, but at the same time you want to de-optimize a chassis from being what it is, because what you want what already isn't good enough to begin with.
It's the same thing as turning a buggy into a truggy, only not as good as a truggy. For various reasons. The Tekno SCT is plenty strong enough to handle 3S, but your dealing with 12mm hubs on 5mm spindles for one, instead of the 17mm hubs the truggy has. The weakness in a high powered open wheel system would be felt in the wheels that we use. You would be far more likely to strip or break a wheel in the event of a hard landing or crash from constant bashing. I I where you, I would either run this truck as is or get a truggy and set it up lower profile like your wanting to do.
You have to remember that the SCT class is somewhat unforgiving in certain ways. We are ROAR bound to 2S setups, and we have the luxury of an over the wheels bodies to protect things. Anything you do to increase weight and change the intended design will be felt more than you'd probably want because you are unbalancing the system.
I honestly feel like you would be a lot better off just picking up a ET48.
If you don't want to hit the higher price tag, you can always find a used last gen that will be way more than adequate to accomplish what your wanting to do.




I agree with your logic, but you forgot one of the most important things to getting those shocks dialed in.
The pistons.
You don't necessarily always want to move up on your spring if you can correct the ground slapping problem by adjusting pack rate.
Try running 6 hole 1.5's vs the stocks and you'll get much better consistency.
Do something weird, and run those pistons upside down to.
You will stay more planted doing this.

Anyhow, unless your on a really smooth high bite track, its a good idea to keep the shock weight down to eat up ruts and reduce proposing.
First and foremost I suggest that people do the battery tray mod and move that pack as far back as possible. This truck is way to nose heavy otherwise, and it seems to cause the rear end to want to prematurely break traction around the hooks and when running the heavy center diff fluid.
The Tekno balances much more correctly when using anything past a 5000mah pack, especially with anything heavier than an RX8 ESC.
If your running a 7200 or even 8000 mah pack like many are, it's pretty much imperative that you cut the battery tray and move that pack back 10mm, and shows exactly why the M2C chassis comes with the option standardized.

This truck is well known to be very nose heavy and that is a lot of the reason so many people have to take out all the anti-squat and run heavy forward springs. The balance issue is the biggest things that needs to be worked out before you do anything else, or your just performing a band-aid and losing some of the trucks capable features that play into a well balanced system.
When you get this right, you can then bring some of that rear anti-squat back in to work with the truck instead of against it.
That alone makes the mod worth it, just because your giving back to the system another fine tuning ability otherwise lost.
I hope this makes sense to everyone, but if not I will go into detail further.
My battery is in the stock location, and with the correct rear shock setup it isn't "nose heavy" at all. The reason it nosedives is the rear of the chassis slaps the face of the jump, sending it ass over tea kettle. Pistons and oils are only to adjust shock speed based on track surface. The spring is for compression. If you're landing flat instead of on the back of the "landing ramp" you're hitting the jump too fast and shock tuning isn't the problem.
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Old 03-05-2016, 01:40 PM   #3149
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I must have missed the battery mod people are talking about. Can someone post a picture of it? I'm curious as to how you did it. I looked at mine and it looks like if you slide the battery all the way back the case will hit the outdrive on the center transmission.
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Old 03-05-2016, 02:26 PM   #3150
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I must have missed the battery mod people are talking about. Can someone post a picture of it? I'm curious as to how you did it. I looked at mine and it looks like if you slide the battery all the way back the case will hit the outdrive on the center transmission.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onun0IYKhlI
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