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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-27-2016, 08:04 AM   #3076
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Cause it's designed that way.. Nose down is faster. Last second try to gun it and raise the front a little.. Else, long as you land off the brakes the jump is quicker nose down . take advantage of it.. Go way faster into jumps and rip brake up the face.
I agree.it has been really good but for some reason it has gotten excessive. One jump I have to keep it pinned to avoid it becoming a lawn dart.
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:50 AM   #3077
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Hey everybody, quick shout out to Amain for shipping me a dead servo! Made my weekend! Off to get a servo that will work now...Protek 150s. 120$ paperweight.
Get a Futaba 9372, never look back...
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:54 AM   #3078
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Originally Posted by Billthebutcher View Post
Hey everybody, quick shout out to Amain for shipping me a dead servo! Made my weekend! Off to get a servo that will work now...Protek 150s. 120$ paperweight.
That's unfortunate. I run a lot of Protek servos in my race stuff. Good stuff. You would have liked it.
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:58 AM   #3079
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Rotate the front end bell on the motor.
Thanks! I thought of that but second guessed that I was missing something.
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Old 02-27-2016, 12:29 PM   #3080
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The green rear springs are too stiff.. Go back to pink. Stick w the 6x 1.5 tapered pistons. More holes w same given cross sectional area creates friction, heat, and will be better landing off jumps for same given shock behavior over the rough fast harsh bumps.

Black fronts only worked for me with much lighter oil.. 25 wt losi, pink springs in back get 30 wt but moved lower shock mounts to inner hole. This balanced front and rear phase perfectly. Limit the extra droop w the droop bolts.

If u find understeer, reduce front swabar diameter. If you have oversteer, reduce rear bar size.

Before changing bar sizes, remember you can make a bar stiffer by sliding the end link mounts away from the bar ends.. Thus making a shorter lever arm.
So what springs and oil do you like for the front? I know that a lot of guys run pink front. I thought the green fronts were too stiff. Thanks!!
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Old 02-27-2016, 02:48 PM   #3081
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How much grease should you put on the differential ring gear inside the gearbox? some people say put a layer of grease all the way around on the gears, others say just put a few dabs of grease in like 4 different spots. How much do you need? Whenever I clean my diffs it is all over in the diff case. Is this normal?
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Old 02-27-2016, 02:52 PM   #3082
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Originally Posted by Billthebutcher View Post
Hey everybody, quick shout out to Amain for shipping me a dead servo! Made my weekend! Off to get a servo that will work now...Protek 150s. 120$ paperweight.
That sucks. I had that happen with a RP 5005S. Call them up. They will exchange or give you store credit.
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Old 02-27-2016, 02:53 PM   #3083
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How much grease should you put on the differential ring gear inside the gearbox? some people say put a layer of grease all the way around on the gears, others say just put a few dabs of grease in like 4 different spots. How much do you need? Whenever I clean my diffs it is all over in the diff case. Is this normal?
I was told u just need enough to coat the gears. Either method works.
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:34 PM   #3084
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
How much grease should you put on the differential ring gear inside the gearbox? some people say put a layer of grease all the way around on the gears, others say just put a few dabs of grease in like 4 different spots. How much do you need? Whenever I clean my diffs it is all over in the diff case. Is this normal?
Just enough to coat them is needed. More may help it run a bit quieter for a short period, but will then just fling onto the case and cause more drag (though a very minor amount). I usually put a small line down half the ring gear, rotate it a couple times to make sure it coated well like I wanted it too, then close up the case.
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:59 PM   #3085
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
So what springs and oil do you like for the front? I know that a lot of guys run pink front. I thought the green fronts were too stiff. Thanks!!
I run pink rear springs 30 wt losi oil inner lower shock attachment hole, front black springs 25 wt oil outer shock attachemnt hole for a little more turn in since the Tekno is stable enough you can add to the steering a little bit. same thing could be done by limiting travel by the droop screws in front. if it was oversteering i'd revert to the inner lower shock attachment holes.


its a nice sized indoor track BUT if I were going to a faster outdoor track with more g-forces i'd up the spring rates and damping a couple notches.. possibly go back to the 8x1.2 pistons to land big jumps better.. and of course uniformly larger stabars to counter the high speed roll forces that are larger.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:08 PM   #3086
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Tried a new shock package yesterday. 8x1.3 pistons front and 8x1.2 rear. 35f/27.5r on oils and yellow springs on all 4 corners. This was money for me on the outdoor track I race at. Very stable and very fast. Enough pack to land larger jumps but fast enough to navigate the small bumps/ruts. Solid! Just wanted to share with you all in case someone else is struggling to find a good setup for a track like mine.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:50 PM   #3087
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Originally Posted by Billthebutcher View Post
Hey everybody, quick shout out to Amain for shipping me a dead servo! Made my weekend! Off to get a servo that will work now...Protek 150s. 120$ paperweight.
What does this have to do with the SCT410.3?? How is it Amain's fault??? How is anyone benefitting from your post?? Do us all a favor and count to 10 before posting please.
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:54 AM   #3088
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Anyone else upgrade their 410 to the .3? I just did and had a couple of questions. 1. are the spindle carrier's different on the .3 than the original. I am currently using the original spindle carrier's and from lock to lock the throw is way shorter than before. 2. I also upgraded to the tapered center front drive shaft. It's rubbing on the front brace. do you have to shave it a bit to fit? Looks like the tapered is a little higher than the original one. Other than learning the new dots LOL, truck is awesome.
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Old 02-29-2016, 12:00 PM   #3089
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Anyone else upgrade their 410 to the .3? I just did and had a couple of questions. 1. are the spindle carrier's different on the .3 than the original. I am currently using the original spindle carrier's and from lock to lock the throw is way shorter than before. 2. I also upgraded to the tapered center front drive shaft. It's rubbing on the front brace. do you have to shave it a bit to fit? Looks like the tapered is a little higher than the original one. Other than learning the new dots LOL, truck is awesome.
Tapered drive shaft should be fine with nothing done to it. It is wider than the old steel center shaft, but not wider than the old aluminum shaft. I would suggest grabbing a video of the issue you're having and then we can try to help figure it out. I generally end up with a LITTLE rub there after a while thanks to all the chassis flex from "Hey, watch this!" moments with my SC, but it isn't normal and isn't much.

Spindles are different (larger outer bearing), but the carriers are the same part number, so should not affect steering throw.

Maybe something on the front went back together slightly different if you're having 2 new issues there, or needs camber/toe reset. I'd double check all of that just to be sure.
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Old 02-29-2016, 12:10 PM   #3090
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Tapered drive shaft should be fine with nothing done to it. It is wider than the old steel center shaft, but not wider than the old aluminum shaft. I would suggest grabbing a video of the issue you're having and then we can try to help figure it out. I generally end up with a LITTLE rub there after a while thanks to all the chassis flex from "Hey, watch this!" moments with my SC, but it isn't normal and isn't much.

Spindles are different (larger outer bearing), but the carriers are the same part number, so should not affect steering throw.

Maybe something on the front went back together slightly different if you're having 2 new issues there, or needs camber/toe reset. I'd double check all of that just to be sure.
I'll take a look and post up some pics when I get home. It's didn't handle differently except for the "drag" brake from the shaft rubbing.
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