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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-25-2016, 02:19 PM   #3061
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Has anyone tried running the truck without sway bars? I tried it when I ran my losi scte 2.0 with some success.
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Old 02-25-2016, 02:46 PM   #3062
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Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
Has anyone tried running the truck without sway bars? I tried it when I ran my losi scte 2.0 with some success.
The SCTE needed to do that to be able to steer well in many setups. We don't have a problem steering with this truck and often run thicker sway bars to help reduce roll.
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:20 PM   #3063
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
The SCTE needed to do that to be able to steer well in many setups. We don't have a problem steering with this truck and often run thicker sway bars to help reduce roll.
Especially in a high bite situation. I'm running 2.8mm front and rear just to keep it on all 4 on super hi bite clay.
But i'll try anything once
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:24 PM   #3064
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Sounds good. I'm still running the stock setup sway bars. Might have to play with those. My truck has been really good but just recently started to nose down a bit. Not sure why yet.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:46 PM   #3065
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Doesn't add to the clutter at all. Tube is still only a couple inches and has a very clean look when shaped nicely. Someone suggested coiling it up in the box. If anyone wants to do that, I have no criticisms for them. I was merely suggesting another option to having the antenna sticking out of the body. If anyone likes the suggestion, they're welcome to try it. That's the beauty of this. You can try whatever you like even if someone else feels it's "unnecessary and adds to the clutter". But I appreciate the positive feedback
I agree King dork, just because its not a requirement does not mean they don't look cool.. I have mine sticking out just behind the passenger side window. makes it look like old school AM radios.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:53 PM   #3066
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It makes more than enough power to over drive the track on the top end as it is, but I was thinking if I gear down AND add timing it might give more low-end/mid-range power that combined with some voltage limiting and/or throttle expo would make it a beast in the tight parts of the track, while not giving up much top end on the straight. Kind of like how using a super charger on a street car allows you to use a less radical gear ratio while maintaining lots of power throughout the RPM range - making the car easier to drive in town and on the highway. I'm not sure if I'm grasping the concepts correctly, though.
I have that same motor but went with the super silky smooth throttle Novak Activ8 V2 - yes, its a honker of an ESC at 90grams w/o wires vs. 72grams for the RX8Gen2 (that's w/o the fan).. once you add the fan the RX8 is almost as heavy and the Novak needs no fan its so damn efficient. Key here is you have the power now you just cant apply it to the track in the short sections. I run 15tooth in a ripper clay setup and it flat out rockets down short straights and is among the fastest trucks there including beating an Orion VST2 550.

I think that's all down to the ESC, pink rear springs, and the short 15 tooth pinion. 140 foot straight is so long you should not optimize for it. Even F1 cars top out before the end of the straight because its more important to have the other parts of the track optimized.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:58 PM   #3067
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Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
Has anyone tried running the truck without sway bars? I tried it when I ran my losi scte 2.0 with some success.
This is not a good idea. Sway bars add a very useful motion control to the suspension. When the McLarens started w/ pure active hydraulic dampers - i.e. virtual springs and stabars, they still needed to create a feeling of stabilizer bars to make the car turn in properly.

that's why I don't like the Tekno stabar narrow mounting location on the gearboxes. the bar is shaped like a V, resulting in more of a bending spring than a reverse action torsion spring. ideally, the bar would be a U shape, with straight arms going to the end links, a mount right in the corners of the U, and a long straight bar in the middle.

I'm also considering graphite lube on the stabar mounts, anyone try that?
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:52 AM   #3068
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
This is not a good idea. Sway bars add a very useful motion control to the suspension. When the McLarens started w/ pure active hydraulic dampers - i.e. virtual springs and stabars, they still needed to create a feeling of stabilizer bars to make the car turn in properly.

that's why I don't like the Tekno stabar narrow mounting location on the gearboxes. the bar is shaped like a V, resulting in more of a bending spring than a reverse action torsion spring. ideally, the bar would be a U shape, with straight arms going to the end links, a mount right in the corners of the U, and a long straight bar in the middle.

I'm also considering graphite lube on the stabar mounts, anyone try that?
Serpent cars actually have ball raced bearings mounting their anti-roll bars.
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:42 PM   #3069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
This is not a good idea. Sway bars add a very useful motion control to the suspension. When the McLarens started w/ pure active hydraulic dampers - i.e. virtual springs and stabars, they still needed to create a feeling of stabilizer bars to make the car turn in properly.

that's why I don't like the Tekno stabar narrow mounting location on the gearboxes. the bar is shaped like a V, resulting in more of a bending spring than a reverse action torsion spring. ideally, the bar would be a U shape, with straight arms going to the end links, a mount right in the corners of the U, and a long straight bar in the middle.

I'm also considering graphite lube on the stabar mounts, anyone try that?
I haven't tried that, but if you look at the sway bar section here, you'll still end up with consistent results each time.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:05 PM   #3070
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I have a few question about pistons for my 410.3. Last season was my first season racing and I am still learning. Our track is hard packed with some dust most of the time and as the season went on the track got more and more rutted and blown out. I was running the 6x1.5 pistons with 35 wt front with black springs and 30 wt rear with green springs. felt pretty good but still a little bouncy. would i benefit from going to the 4x1.8 pistons? Are the 10x1.2 pistons more for smooth track and the 6x1.5 and 4x1.8 more for bumpy? What about oil and springs for the different piston setups? Sorry for so many question, just trying to learn.

Thanks!!
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Old 02-26-2016, 10:26 PM   #3071
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Hello,

I have a Tekin Pro 4 4000kv motor and I can't get the motor mount aligned so that the solder tabs are not at an extreme angle to the side. Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:23 AM   #3072
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
I have a few question about pistons for my 410.3. Last season was my first season racing and I am still learning. Our track is hard packed with some dust most of the time and as the season went on the track got more and more rutted and blown out. I was running the 6x1.5 pistons with 35 wt front with black springs and 30 wt rear with green springs. felt pretty good but still a little bouncy. would i benefit from going to the 4x1.8 pistons? Are the 10x1.2 pistons more for smooth track and the 6x1.5 and 4x1.8 more for bumpy? What about oil and springs for the different piston setups? Sorry for so many question, just trying to learn.

Thanks!!
The green rear springs are too stiff.. Go back to pink. Stick w the 6x 1.5 tapered pistons. More holes w same given cross sectional area creates friction, heat, and will be better landing off jumps for same given shock behavior over the rough fast harsh bumps.

Black fronts only worked for me with much lighter oil.. 25 wt losi, pink springs in back get 30 wt but moved lower shock mounts to inner hole. This balanced front and rear phase perfectly. Limit the extra droop w the droop bolts.

If u find understeer, reduce front swabar diameter. If you have oversteer, reduce rear bar size.

Before changing bar sizes, remember you can make a bar stiffer by sliding the end link mounts away from the bar ends.. Thus making a shorter lever arm.
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:37 AM   #3073
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Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
Sounds good. I'm still running the stock setup sway bars. Might have to play with those. My truck has been really good but just recently started to nose down a bit. Not sure why yet.
Cause it's designed that way.. Nose down is faster. Last second try to gun it and raise the front a little.. Else, long as you land off the brakes the jump is quicker nose down . take advantage of it.. Go way faster into jumps and rip brake up the face.
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:38 AM   #3074
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Originally Posted by steve08 View Post
Hello,

I have a Tekin Pro 4 4000kv motor and I can't get the motor mount aligned so that the solder tabs are not at an extreme angle to the side. Anyone else have this problem?
Rotate the front end bell on the motor.
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:03 AM   #3075
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Hey everybody, quick shout out to Amain for shipping me a dead servo! Made my weekend! Off to get a servo that will work now...Protek 150s. 120$ paperweight.
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