219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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02-23-2016, 09:00 PM
#3046
Just ordered my Tekno SCT410.3. Will be here tomorrow.
Will post back with pictures, and I will start building as soon as UPS pulls up. Any tips, or recommendations?
Thanks everyone!
Will post back with pictures, and I will start building as soon as UPS pulls up. Any tips, or recommendations?
Thanks everyone!
02-23-2016, 09:10 PM
#3047
Maybe 1 while you're at it?
Thanks,
Shanon
02-23-2016, 09:41 PM
#3048
Doesn't add to the clutter at all. Tube is still only a couple inches and has a very clean look when shaped nicely. Someone suggested coiling it up in the box. If anyone wants to do that, I have no criticisms for them. I was merely suggesting another option to having the antenna sticking out of the body. If anyone likes the suggestion, they're welcome to try it. That's the beauty of this. You can try whatever you like even if someone else feels it's "unnecessary and adds to the clutter". But I appreciate the positive feedback 
And again no offense, but if you want positive feedback for what your doing, it has to make logical sense based on my experience.
"Speaking for myself" in this case, it doesn't.
I honestly don't care what you do with your stuff, and wouldn't have said anything about it at all. But I'd hate to see someone read the suggestion and think it's a good idea only to end up getting their antenna ripped out because they had it poked out much longer than it needed to be.
Same goes for those that bend the tip over the end of the tube and then put the end cap on it to secure it in place.
I have seen both accounts cause antennas to be ripped out, so any arguments are void as far as I am concerned.
While this might sound unlikely, it does happen.
One time it happened was because one vehicle broadsided another at the end of a long straight and completely jammed their chassis completely inside the other. That's all it takes.
02-24-2016, 03:31 AM
#3049
Tech Master
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Josh, I'm certainly aware of the evolution of transmitters/receivers/antenna length and what not. My antennas are only a few inches long anyway so they're by no means flopping around under the body. Either way, anyone reading either suggestion is free to do what they please. The Tekno has plenty of room under the body so do what you please. I read all of your posts and appreciate the knowledge you bring. You can discredit anything you want that doesn't make logical sense to you. No offense here big boy Have a nice day now.
Have a nice day now.
02-24-2016, 04:17 AM
#3050
The confusing part is that it shows a 9-square (3x3), but it really is a 25-square (5x5). Reference is 3degrees toe and 3 degrees anti-squat for center hole/center hole. From there it's 1/2 degree increments. I'll try to post a pdf from images gathered from the first page of this thread I think and some verbage I put on them to make it easier to understand.
02-24-2016, 05:03 AM
#3051
Use the .5 degree down "two dot insert" (center/bottom) on the C block, with a 1 degree "one dot" top center on the D block.
This will give you 1.5 degrees antisquat, while maintaining 3 degrees toe in.
Josh, I'm certainly aware of the evolution of transmitters/receivers/antenna length and what not. My antennas are only a few inches long anyway so they're by no means flopping around under the body. Either way, anyone reading either suggestion is free to do what they please. The Tekno has plenty of room under the body so do what you please. I read all of your posts and appreciate the knowledge you bring. You can discredit anything you want that doesn't make logical sense to you. No offense here big boy Have a nice day now.
Have a nice day now.Again I didn't mean to come off rude.
I probably sound a lot more blunt on here than I actually am getting to a point when I type.
I read in this last comment you're only using a few inches, but when you mentioned your considering bending the antenna tube into the shock tower a few post back, it came off as more than a few inches worth in my mind.
So you can probably see how I might have interpreted that the way I did. Anyhow anything I say is just an opinion, it's fine with me if you take or leave it. I appreciate your input in the group as well.
02-24-2016, 05:21 AM
#3052
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Wherever my alien friends take me.
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We're all friends on here Josh 
Thanks again for all of your input. I particularly value your knowledge in the area of shock/suspension tuning (along with everyone else's) and look forward to trying some things out. Have a good one!
Thanks again for all of your input. I particularly value your knowledge in the area of shock/suspension tuning (along with everyone else's) and look forward to trying some things out. Have a good one!
02-24-2016, 07:37 AM
#3053
I have a couple of questions :
1- What chassis braces are you guys running for indoor med bite and outdoor
2- I am having a problem with getting a 14 t pinion to work it will not get close enough to mesh with the stock spur.I have tried to move the motor mount around and that did not work Currently runnnig 16/44 and 4700 kv hobbywing motor thanks
1- What chassis braces are you guys running for indoor med bite and outdoor
2- I am having a problem with getting a 14 t pinion to work it will not get close enough to mesh with the stock spur.I have tried to move the motor mount around and that did not work Currently runnnig 16/44 and 4700 kv hobbywing motor thanks
02-24-2016, 09:34 AM
#3054
Tech Master
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I ran the 4700 Hobbywing in my "old" Tekno. 15-16 tooth on med bite med size indoor clay was the sweet spot. I'd be concerned with over revving going down to a 14.
02-24-2016, 09:53 AM
#3055
I have a couple of questions :
1- What chassis braces are you guys running for indoor med bite and outdoor
2- I am having a problem with getting a 14 t pinion to work it will not get close enough to mesh with the stock spur.I have tried to move the motor mount around and that did not work Currently runnnig 16/44 and 4700 kv hobbywing motor thanks
1- What chassis braces are you guys running for indoor med bite and outdoor
2- I am having a problem with getting a 14 t pinion to work it will not get close enough to mesh with the stock spur.I have tried to move the motor mount around and that did not work Currently runnnig 16/44 and 4700 kv hobbywing motor thanks
The 4700 is the only motor I run, and it likes a taller gear with zero timing.
15 is as low as you will ever need to go. I can run a 17t 40 spur in my SCTE 2.0 all day long. Still has loads of bottom end and the top speed is ridiculous.
If your going to beat me, your going to do it in the turns, cause on the straights I have a rocket ship!
02-24-2016, 05:54 PM
#3056
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: May 2011
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My 4700 was ballistic. Medium track and a 15 tooth pinion and it never got above 135-140 degrees. Trying the 4000 Hobbywing this time with a 17/18 pinion. Has anyone tried the Durango aluminum opinions?
02-24-2016, 07:25 PM
#3057
I have a couple of questions :
1- What chassis braces are you guys running for indoor med bite and outdoor
2- I am having a problem with getting a 14 t pinion to work it will not get close enough to mesh with the stock spur.I have tried to move the motor mount around and that did not work Currently runnnig 16/44 and 4700 kv hobbywing motor thanks
1- What chassis braces are you guys running for indoor med bite and outdoor
2- I am having a problem with getting a 14 t pinion to work it will not get close enough to mesh with the stock spur.I have tried to move the motor mount around and that did not work Currently runnnig 16/44 and 4700 kv hobbywing motor thanks
02-24-2016, 07:37 PM
#3059
To compare the weight of the pinion >>
solid 18 pinion - 14 grams
lighten Tekno 18 pinion - 10 grams
Team Durango (aluminum) 18 pinion - 3 grams