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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-12-2016, 09:53 PM   #3001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
1. Battery may have the same weight, it is about 320g,
2. Motor is not 550 but 540, this saves 95g
3. milled out the shock towers, but they become to weak, rear one is bend already
4. until now, Titanium hinge pins are not in use, rest is Titanium
5. did not used the rear brace the last race, thanks for reminding me to put it in for this weekend (carpet indoor), maybe +25g
6. milled out plastic under the battery tray
7. Hazard wheels and Schumacher tires and inserts are very light...
8. the scale is not proven...

Next ideas:
1. titanium hinge pins
2. front driveshaft made of carbon fibre
The front drive shaft is heavy and needs a carbon fiber version, what a great idea.
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Old 02-13-2016, 01:19 AM   #3002
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Originally Posted by FAO View Post
I already tryed to do that. (run direkt 2s) Every time, you give full throttle, the servo pitches to one side. I tested Hitec and Sanwa servos. Maybe i had to install a bigger capacitor, but had no time to do that. So i switched back to 6vBEC.
I was told the new Futaba servo is built to handle direct 2S voltages. The older 9352 cannot take direct voltage like this and will glitch out. The new 9372 shouldn't have this issue according to an article I read a while back, but I haven't actually tried it with one yet, so I don't know.
Are you saying you tried the 9372 direct, or the older one?
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:25 AM   #3003
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has anyone seen someone with an RX8 esc with this rearward location? Looks like I'd have to move the receiver box over to the driver side and put the esc on the passenger side. There's no room for the RX8 to fit down in the chassis on that driver side rear spot...I think
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:47 AM   #3004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Ok very stupid question, can someone point out to me the location of explanations for all of the different a,b,c,d block insert combinations?

I can see some of the info on the base setup sheet at the bottom left.

I can also deduce the simple ones with a single pin location.. just looking for a master descriptor with some explanations of what is going on.

Help appreciated. FYI - wheels wont fit. not pro line, not jconcepts, not losi, and not DE racing - unless you remove the washers from the steering end link now it does not hit but my bump steer is off and the end of the link is too low now and i'm getting some extra bump steer.
Check out page 1 of this forum to see if that helps with an explanation of the hinge pin inserts.

On the steering link screw at the wheels, I run a button head screw. Also, the washers up top (between the steering link and top of the screw serve as washers holders. The don't change bump until you place them between the spindle and the link.
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:57 AM   #3005
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I just ordered my first 410.3 and Tekin HD 4300 with RX8 G2. I run medium-size (140ft straight) 1/8 clay tracks with plenty of doubles and triples. Can anyone give me some recommended initial mods, set-up, tuning ideas? I've been racing a ProSC 4x4 with stock motor and ESC (no timing adjustments, etc.) This is going to be an entirely new learning curve.

The ProSC is lighter than the Tekno and prefers very soft suspension (3 lbs springs & 20wt oil, 28/26mm ride height, super soft Hole Shot tires) to get around the turns. I know the key at these tracks is "soft" for the Tekno, too, but there is sooo much more tuning on the 410.3, I need a point in the right direction.

Thanks.
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:52 PM   #3006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
I already tryed to do that. (run direkt 2s) Every time, you give full throttle, the servo pitches to one side. I tested Hitec and Sanwa servos. Maybe i had to install a bigger capacitor, but had no time to do that. So i switched back to 6vBEC.
How did you have the servo ground wire setup? Going to battery or receiver?
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Old 02-13-2016, 04:39 PM   #3007
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Truck did very good at the race today (Saturday). One nagging issue near end of a qualifier and the main, the speed control peeled its way out and ripped off the sensor then just kinda dangled there. brand new blue double sided tape on the back of my Novak Activ8 V2.

That's a heavy beast of an ESC I have heard two things.

1. Kyosho vibration damping sheet "Zeal" - this looked about 6mm thick, super heavy, and $15 bucks. I don't want to make the over weight spot on the truck even more over weight. its also only just as sticky as its built in adhesion layer.

2. super duper double sided tape with red backing Its supposed to be far superior than the light blue backing tape.

3. Mechanical method?

Help appreciated.
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Old 02-13-2016, 05:42 PM   #3008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Truck did very good at the race today (Saturday). One nagging issue near end of a qualifier and the main, the speed control peeled its way out and ripped off the sensor then just kinda dangled there. brand new blue double sided tape on the back of my Novak Activ8 V2.

That's a heavy beast of an ESC I have heard two things.

1. Kyosho vibration damping sheet "Zeal" - this looked about 6mm thick, super heavy, and $15 bucks. I don't want to make the over weight spot on the truck even more over weight. its also only just as sticky as its built in adhesion layer.

2. super duper double sided tape with red backing Its supposed to be far superior than the light blue backing tape.

3. Mechanical method?

Help appreciated.
I use the zeal tape and can tell you it works very well. My main reason to use is to help dampen the impacts to the esc. The adhesion is very good though just make sure you clean both surfaces prior to using the tape.
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:32 PM   #3009
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Clean both surfaces with denatured alcohol and use the clear Parma tape (red backing). I've never had anything pop off with this stuff including my heavy Viper VTX8 in my old SCT410. If your still nervous, add a zip tie around the esc and platform or Shoe Goo it right to the esc platform.
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Old 02-14-2016, 05:56 AM   #3010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King DORK View Post
Clean both surfaces with denatured alcohol and use the clear Parma tape (red backing). I've never had anything pop off with this stuff including my heavy Viper VTX8 in my old SCT410. If your still nervous, add a zip tie around the esc and platform or Shoe Goo it right to the esc platform.
Yes!! Parma tape works for me as well.
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Old 02-14-2016, 10:14 AM   #3011
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Had a awesome Sat night racing with the .3 started 4th A main and finished 1st, love my tekno
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:34 AM   #3012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave H View Post
How did you have the servo ground wire setup? Going to battery or receiver?
Had a phone call to the hitec distributor and service in Germany. He told me to try this. I connected the ground wire of the servo to the battery and to the reciver. Nothing changed. My servo was a HITEC HSB 9475 SH. The problem is not the servo, (i tested Futaba too) it might be the voltage drop of the fully loaded battery during hard full throttle pitch. With battery noticeable emptyer, this does not ocour.
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Old 02-15-2016, 12:57 PM   #3013
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Originally Posted by crash n go View Post
I use the zeal tape and can tell you it works very well. My main reason to use is to help dampen the impacts to the esc. The adhesion is very good though just make sure you clean both surfaces prior to using the tape.
I agree, this stuff is amazing!
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:20 PM   #3014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
Had a phone call to the hitec distributor and service in Germany. He told me to try this. I connected the ground wire of the servo to the battery and to the reciver. Nothing changed. My servo was a HITEC HSB 9475 SH. The problem is not the servo, (i tested Futaba too) it might be the voltage drop of the fully loaded battery during hard full throttle pitch. With battery noticeable emptyer, this does not ocour.
Ground wire to receiver usually seems to work. Since that is where the control signal is coming from. Going to the battery can pick up more noise from the main drive that confuses the servo control signal. Caveat is most of my experience is with lower load 2wd buggies and trucks, but I've read of similar experiences with heavier models too.
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:51 PM   #3015
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Are the NB48.3 shock towers beefier but the same as 410.3? I know on my sct410 the nb48 shock towers were a direct drop in.
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