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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-21-2016, 07:29 PM   #2896
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Originally Posted by M5000 View Post
Hey guys - I too am new here, although I have no previous experience with hobby-grade RC. I've had cheapos since the day I was born but I'm looking more and more toward the nice stuff.

So I've been doing research for the last month on what type of vehicle, brand, parts etc - and I'm pretty much set on either the RTR Losi or spending a bit more and building the Tekno SCT 410.3 from the ground up. Like I said I don't have a lot of experience in specifically high end RC but I do have some decent electronics and a bit of mechanical experience and I think I can figure most things out for myself.

The goal with this build is:
-Sturdy, heavy, insanely powerful and fast basher.
-Will be running most of its time on a hard packed BMX course when they're not holding events, or in baseball fields with grass potentially mixed in. Also maybe some sand and gravel pits if work would allow me! And of course asphalt roads/parking lots.
-To learn about high end RC and get my bearings with everything.
-Price is not necessarily an issue but I'm trying to keep it under $1K
-Value for money spent on parts

So here's my proposed build:
-Chassis: Tekno SCT410.3
-Motor/ESC: Castle Sidewinder 8TH (2200 KV motor)
-Batt: Turnigy 5000mAh 4S 30C
-Servo: Savox SB-2251SG (or maybe a comparable Hitec unit)
-Wheels/Tires: ProLine F-11 with Gladiators
-TX/RX: FlySky FS-GT2E / FS-A3
-Body: One of these: JConcepts '79 Ranger F250, ProLine '81 Bronco (need high mount body posts), ProLine VW Beetle Full Fender, or any one of the 4000 Raptor shells out there now.

Other than that a few questions about individual parts:
-Will this motor even fit in the Tekno? It's supposedly a 550 can but it's pretty long..Anyone run this motor or the Mamba Monster 2 in one of these kits?
-Servo - The output on the ESC says it's 5.5V - the servo gives me all the ratings in 6.0V - this shouldn't hurt anything other than slightly lower torque output than the servo manufacturer's rating at 6.0V correct?
-Gearing - How does this work - I assume since I have a lower KV I want a slightly higher gear ratio so I can keep RPMs low and thus not overheat? Or does the high torque overheat motors more? What makes sense to keep the motor from overheating yet still get good speed - I don't think power will be an issue with this motor - Also where do you get the gears from? Do they include multiple ones in the kit or do you need to order them separately?
-Shaft - Is there something I need to be concerned with on the shaft diameter? I've seen different motors with different sized shafts. Is there a standard for 4X4 SCTs?
-Shocks/Suspension - There's a bunch of springs on Tekno's page - Do they just come with one by default? I don't think I need anything special but I want to make sure the kit does in fact COME with shocks!
-Any good places to buy or suggestions to cut costs where I may not need to spend money would also be appreciated.

Other than that, I feel like I can probably just figure out the rest - Assuming the Tekno kit comes with all the mechanical bits on the chassis, I should be good. I still need to look up aluminum servo horns as I hear those are a problem with this kit due to high torque needed to turn the wheels?

Thanks guys, this is gonna be awesome!

PS let me know if I'm breaking any one of multiple unknown RC or forum faux pas here. Am I supposed to buy a cheap $400 RTR first then 2 years later come back with this list again saying "yeah guys I think it's time to move to a truly nice kit, I got this one but it's only XYZ and doesn't jump 40 feet into the air off jumps"?

I know this a Tekno thread and am a little biased, I feel I can give a fairly honest answer to the Tekno vs Losi. I used to have a Losi SCTE and it drove very well and I still get beat by them on the track, BUT the Tekno is far better in terms of durability, plastics quality, fit and finish, non-leaking diffs. The SCTE NEEDED upgrades from aftermarket companies while the Tekno does not but there are some available. So I would say the Tekno will be a more durable basher that can handle the big power you are looking for.
The issue with your choice of ESC will be the relative small space allowed for it. I don't know the dimensions of the Sidewinder, but compare it to the popular choice of a Tekin RX8.
For the motor, it should fit depending on how much space is left from the ESC. The motor shaft is the 5mm. You will need a pinion. I'm not sure of a good starting point for the motor you suggest. Novak make 3 packs that are handy. You need a MOD 1 pitch.
This truck is very similar to the EB48 which has room for full 8th scale motors.
You are correct that the lower BEC output will not hurt the servo.
Yes, the kit comes with shocks and springs. The springs on the web site are just optional tuning springs.
I would also suggest to get a nice alloy servo horn. Tekno horns are great.
Personally I would spend a bit more on your radio. I know Spekrum get looked down on, but I would buy a lower end Spektrum over the Flysky any day.
I hope this helps and ask if you have any more questions.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:42 PM   #2897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkl View Post
I know this a Tekno thread and am a little biased, I feel I can give a fairly honest answer to the Tekno vs Losi. I used to have a Losi SCTE and it drove very well and I still get beat by them on the track, BUT the Tekno is far better in terms of durability, plastics quality, fit and finish, non-leaking diffs. The SCTE NEEDED upgrades from aftermarket companies while the Tekno does not but there are some available. So I would say the Tekno will be a more durable basher that can handle the big power you are looking for.
The issue with your choice of ESC will be the relative small space allowed for it. I don't know the dimensions of the Sidewinder, but compare it to the popular choice of a Tekin RX8.
For the motor, it should fit depending on how much space is left from the ESC. The motor shaft is the 5mm. You will need a pinion. I'm not sure of a good starting point for the motor you suggest. Novak make 3 packs that are handy. You need a MOD 1 pitch.
This truck is very similar to the EB48 which has room for full 8th scale motors.
You are correct that the lower BEC output will not hurt the servo.
Yes, the kit comes with shocks and springs. The springs on the web site are just optional tuning springs.
I would also suggest to get a nice alloy servo horn. Tekno horns are great.
Personally I would spend a bit more on your radio. I know Spekrum get looked down on, but I would buy a lower end Spektrum over the Flysky any day.
I hope this helps and ask if you have any more questions.
Yes this absolutely does answer pretty much any outstanding questions I had about this possible build. Will have to be off to doing more research then!

-M5K
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:57 AM   #2898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkl View Post
I know this a Tekno thread and am a little biased, I feel I can give a fairly honest answer to the Tekno vs Losi. I used to have a Losi SCTE and it drove very well and I still get beat by them on the track, BUT the Tekno is far better in terms of durability, plastics quality, fit and finish, non-leaking diffs. The SCTE NEEDED upgrades from aftermarket companies while the Tekno does not but there are some available. So I would say the Tekno will be a more durable basher that can handle the big power you are looking for.
The issue with your choice of ESC will be the relative small space allowed for it. I don't know the dimensions of the Sidewinder, but compare it to the popular choice of a Tekin RX8.
For the motor, it should fit depending on how much space is left from the ESC. The motor shaft is the 5mm. You will need a pinion. I'm not sure of a good starting point for the motor you suggest. Novak make 3 packs that are handy. You need a MOD 1 pitch.
This truck is very similar to the EB48 which has room for full 8th scale motors.
You are correct that the lower BEC output will not hurt the servo.
Yes, the kit comes with shocks and springs. The springs on the web site are just optional tuning springs.
I would also suggest to get a nice alloy servo horn. Tekno horns are great.
Personally I would spend a bit more on your radio. I know Spekrum get looked down on, but I would buy a lower end Spektrum over the Flysky any day.
I hope this helps and ask if you have any more questions.
Excellent response, this mirrors my experience as well. I don't have any hard data, but I really like the Tekno servo horns for my tekno vehicles, the linkage and everything just fits it so well, no weird elevation change. Worth the 1 or 2 bucks more they cost if that.
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:49 AM   #2899
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I picked up a very nice 410.2. Question: Can I upgrade with parts to a .3? If so what parts and how expensive?
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:42 AM   #2900
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I picked up a very nice 410.2. Question: Can I upgrade with parts to a .3? If so what parts and how expensive?
http://www.fiercercsolutions.com/Tek...ecs-FRC005.htm
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:17 AM   #2901
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Originally Posted by M5000 View Post
Losi Vs Tekno
I have both, and they both have their points. If your into serious racing, you will set on top with either if you know what your doing with setups.

I have always been biased toward Losi, because that is what I always ran since my first XX-T and always considered them the bar-none best.
As reluctant as I was at first, I ended up building a Tekno 410.3 after much researching and debate.
As much as I wanted to deny it, I cannot deny the fact I have to give the upper hand to Tekno in many ways.

That being stated, here's my take.

SCTE 2.0
(The pros)
The 2.0 has plenty of major victories to prove its a capable platform.
When it's dialed in it is super nimble, very light weight and surprisingly a real tank in the durability department. I haven't broke one single part this whole past year and looking back I seriously don't even know how that could be possible!

(the cons)
On the flip side, you have to upgrade it right away to get dependable service out of it.
The alloy rear bearing carriers should have came with it new IMO.
The steering geometry alignments and pivot ball assemblies are less than stellar in fitment and wear and need higher quality upgrades, dremeled and/or shimmed.
The initial front/rear diff ring gear/pinion meshing is notchy until they wear in after several runs.
The diffs are built with junk shims and need higher quality 12.9 grade steel screws to avoid stripping them out after one or two rebuilds.
The center front drive shaft is offset to the front diff and causes parts wear and strains the entire drive line through inevitable resistance.
There is an upgrade to help fix the issue with newly released loose dogbone set.
Lastly the stock shocks are $#%! compared to their 22 and 1/8 scale vehicle counterparts and need constant upkeep to perform half decent.
I say half, because the design is so flawed you cannot remove the shaft wobble no matter what you do which burns up seals in no time on a dusty track.
Best thing to do is go straight for the 22 shock upgrade if you care about the single most important factor to a consistent off-road RC, which is really annoying since this is the second time I feel forced to do so because of a defective design that's freely admitted.
Another $120 smack in the face for my patronage doesn't set well with me.

Tekno 410.3
(the pros)
This truck is built with pride! It reeks of quality through out with parts fitment and wear resistance and can take a big jump like nothing happened.
No slop to be found anywhere! None at all.
This truck laughs off rough terrain and just plants down into a groove and stays there, even if your not actually in it, it will make it's own!
It's so easy to drive it's almost intuitive in generating a consistent line. After driving it around a bit I realized just how bad my SCTE's setup was, which I admit is my fault, not the trucks. But in all seriousness, the out of the box tekno actually helped me realize what I was looking for in feel within some areas I couldn't put my finger on till then.
As for durability, I haven't tortured the 410.3 like I have my losi, but I have seen plenty of them run all year without fail. Nothing really needs to be proven here in my opinion.

(the cons)
It's kinda heavy.
(But this probably attributes to it's stick, and doesn't seem to hurt efficiency thanks to an inline drive line that makes sense)
It's not quite as nimble on it's toes as the Losi around the hooks, noticed only on the snap hook section on some tracks.
Should have come with carbon towers to save some weight and at least the alloy A-block to truly bullet proof it out the box.
While, just a few preference gripes really, I am not a fan of the forced battery position, plastic diff gear cross pin, or the stock alloy cast hub adapters.

All in all, If your a serious racer "preferably sponsored!" that will likely be running through your maintenance routine consistently, either truck will tear down a track and can put you center podium on any given day.

However if you are the average weekend warrior with a "non RC fanatical" girl friend/wife and have other things to do with your time off than just maintain your RC cars.... (Not as if I'm referring to any of you guys on here! )
You'd do a lot better just going for the Tekno and knowing your chances of being competitive from week to week will depend more on just your driving.

For what it's worth, this all comes from a die hard Losi fanatic from way back.

Contrary to my honest opinions or gripes, I still like my SCTE 2.0 and will run it to it's demise. I also respect the TLR drivers and believe in their individual persons as the professionals they are.
But after a lot of contemplation and some insightful knowledge from personal friendships within the pro league, I cannot deny the hard facts of what Tekno is, where they come from and where they seem to be headed.
Taking note of the obvious dedication and efforts shown in their products are all anyone really needs to be convinced.
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Old 01-23-2016, 04:42 AM   #2902
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GREAT post, Josh L!!
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:24 AM   #2903
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Looking at a new radio for my new 410.3 setup. The Airtronics MT4S has everything I want but I need feedback on SSR servo's, min torque, etc.

The servo I plan to use is the Airtronics 94915, its very fast and supports SSR. Problem is the torque is only 208 oz-in. I think that will be enough but I have not had a heavy truck like this one before. I really want to take advantage of the mythical SSR but I don't see any other compatible servo's. I had planned on the Futaba S9352HV or the Savox SB-2282SG - both have greater torque in the 275 range and weigh the same and are the same if not slightly faster speeds.

Second question is the ESC, plan is to run the Activ8 V2 from Novak however I don't know if this ESC supports SSR. they have smaller ESC called the Pulse that does support SSR.

I have read that higher end Savox servo's can support SSR but that was not for certain.

Help appreciated!
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:03 AM   #2904
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Looking at a new radio for my new 410.3 setup. The Airtronics MT4S has everything I want but I need feedback on SSR servo's, min torque, etc.

The servo I plan to use is the Airtronics 94915, its very fast and supports SSR. Problem is the torque is only 208 oz-in. I think that will be enough but I have not had a heavy truck like this one before. I really want to take advantage of the mythical SSR but I don't see any other compatible servo's. I had planned on the Futaba S9352HV or the Savox SB-2282SG - both have greater torque in the 275 range and weigh the same and are the same if not slightly faster speeds.

Second question is the ESC, plan is to run the Activ8 V2 from Novak however I don't know if this ESC supports SSR. they have smaller ESC called the Pulse that does support SSR.

I have read that higher end Savox servo's can support SSR but that was not for certain.

Help appreciated!
200oz torque for the SCT410.3 is really fine. I really feel like that's the point where you stop noticing extra torque making any difference... speed over torque for me past 200oz.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:08 AM   #2905
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Hoobywing zerun 3656 motor 4700kv. Motor lead C gets so hot it melts the solder. I've tried redoing the solder and replacing the wire with no improvement. It only seems to be the C connection in the motor.

Has anyone seen this before?
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:12 AM   #2906
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Hoobywing zerun 3656 motor 4700kv. Motor lead C gets so hot it melts the solder. I've tried redoing the solder and replacing the wire with no improvement. It only seems to be the C connection in the motor.

Has anyone seen this before?
I did on an RTR motor from Arrma, it was an 1/8 scale motor, but I had one wire that would get super hot... the motor ended up starting to perform worse and worse. I ended up just tossing it, not sure if it could have been repaired.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:14 PM   #2907
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
GREAT post, Josh L!!
Appreciate it!
It's only my opinions of course, but I have done a whole lot of tinkering around with these trucks from the box up, carefully examining each design.
Also have spent many hours gathering lots of insight from a few pros who've owned and have done well with both vehicles that unanimously have come to the same conclusions. Having said that, it's worthy to note it's not just my singular bias.

Again,... I have always loved my Losi's and hope the next release gets it better.
I admit I took a shot straight to my brand loyalty pride once I picked up the Tekno and it will be real hard from here on out when it comes to making a decisive choice on my future rollers if I can only have one for what ever reason. Hope it never comes to that though, can't ever have to many toys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Looking at a new radio for my new 410.3 setup. The Airtronics MT4S has everything I want but I need feedback on SSR servo's, min torque, etc.

The servo I plan to use is the Airtronics 94915, its very fast and supports SSR. Problem is the torque is only 208 oz-in. I think that will be enough but I have not had a heavy truck like this one before. I really want to take advantage of the mythical SSR but I don't see any other compatible servo's. I had planned on the Futaba S9352HV or the Savox SB-2282SG - both have greater torque in the 275 range and weigh the same and are the same if not slightly faster speeds.

Second question is the ESC, plan is to run the Activ8 V2 from Novak however I don't know if this ESC supports SSR. they have smaller ESC called the Pulse that does support SSR.

I have read that higher end Savox servo's can support SSR but that was not for certain.

Help appreciated!
I think your basing and potentially limiting the soundness of your overall choices around a negligible tech addendum IMO.
I can tell you from experience that I would find it real hard to believe anything could be much cleaner in real time resolution or response than that HV9253.
I have messed around with a whole lot of servos in cars, planes, and helicopters, and that futaba is a beastly creature that has never let me down no matter how much hell I've put it through.
Consider the fact I nearly lock out the servo saver in my SCT's all together and have had some wicked crashes. Didn't phase it...
If you read reviews and talk to people that actually have owned them it is one of the rare deals where your going to be hard pressed to find anyone disappointed and odds are likely that is the one they are still using and continue to toss into their new rollers time after time.
This is honestly one of the most reliable piece of electronics that just keeps on keeping on no matter how hard I beat it down. Hard to argue a speed of .06 with 300+ oz in of torque, and it easily holds to it's claim.

I personally wouldn't feel comfortable with anything less than 250 oz in in an SCT.
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:16 PM   #2908
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo View Post
I did on an RTR motor from Arrma, it was an 1/8 scale motor, but I had one wire that would get super hot... the motor ended up starting to perform worse and worse. I ended up just tossing it, not sure if it could have been repaired.
Thank you. Turns out the screw was loose (barely) but enough to cause variable resistance. I removed the screw, added dielectric grease and tightened everything up. Lead temp went down and overall engine temp dropped as well.
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:47 PM   #2909
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Originally Posted by fidelity101 View Post
Thank you. Turns out the screw was loose (barely) but enough to cause variable resistance. I removed the screw, added dielectric grease and tightened everything up. Lead temp went down and overall engine temp dropped as well.
Anytime a wire is desoldering, one of 2 things is happening.
1) Bad connection
2) short

If it is 2, chances are the motor got too hot and some of the wire coating melted so wires can touch or arc now. If it is 1, then ya just have to find and fix it.

For those HobbyWing motors with the screw mounts, I like to solder a drop on the screw joint itself. Not inside or anything to make an electrical contact, but on the outside just to prevent them from unscrewing.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:52 PM   #2910
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Thanks. I have to imagine the post got VERY hot if it was able to melt the solder all over the chassis and wires below. I was using a temp gun and I watched as slowly applying throttle showed in increase of about 2-4 degrees per second. Now that it's fixed, the car is performing much better and the overall engine temps are staying below 120F.
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