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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-19-2015, 11:15 AM   #2746
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I just switched to a Futaba S9352HV, I run it on 7.4V and really am liking the feel of it, plenty strong and SUPER fast but not twitchy feeling.
I ended up ordering a BLS371SV. Should be here on Tuesday.

I got the roller put together last night. I gotta say, I'm impressed with the quality of the plastic. At least as compared to my SCTE.
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:56 AM   #2747
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I was going to use my Spektrum S6040 for steering duties. It worked good in the SCTE. Should work in the .3 just as well I think. So a 23spl Tekno horn is on order too.

Just curious but why the M2C instead of the Tekno hubs?
Honestly, I have a 6040 in one of my 8th scale buggies and it does great. No lag in time or lack of torque. This is just my experience. That servo is super quick too.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:27 AM   #2748
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Anyone having an issue with the front bumper on this truck? Every time my son lands a little nose down the bumper pushes out from the chassis and then hangs down about 1/4 below the front of the chassis. It causes issues with handling once it happens for the rest of the run. There are not super hard hits causing this issue so any help would be great.

Thanks
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:31 AM   #2749
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Originally Posted by JFuel11 View Post
Anyone having an issue with the front bumper on this truck? Every time my son lands a little nose down the bumper pushes out from the chassis and then hangs down about 1/4 below the front of the chassis. It causes issues with handling once it happens for the rest of the run. There are not super hard hits causing this issue so any help would be great.

Thanks
Are you saying that the bumper has ripped the screw off of the front hingepin block? If the screw hole has stripped out you could CA it in place in the meantime. Eventually I would say you should upgrade to the aluminum A bock. It's more durable in a crash and won't strip out.
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:23 PM   #2750
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Default Sct410.3 to buggy

Hello, I know that it is possible to convert the sct410.3 to a buggy but I'm not sure what I'd need complete the conversion. If someone could help it would be appreciated.

Thanks Alex
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:12 PM   #2751
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Are you saying that the bumper has ripped the screw off of the front hingepin block? If the screw hole has stripped out you could CA it in place in the meantime. Eventually I would say you should upgrade to the aluminum A bock. It's more durable in a crash and won't strip out.
Thanks for the response and I want to say the truck is great. My son won the A-Main with it last Friday night.

The issue is the bumper must be flexing enough to allow it to drop down below the chassis plate but it is not pulling the screw out of the front bulk head. The are where the bumper gets sand-wedged between the bulkhead and chassis is what is coming out and dropping below the chassis.

I have to dig the dirt out of the front screw hole, remove screw still that is still holding bumper to bulkhead, loosen screws that hold the bulkhead to chassis so I can get bumper back in place and then screw it all back together.

This is happening almost every run.

Again, not down on the truck, it works great, just need to get this issue resolved.

See Photos Below:



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Old 12-20-2015, 03:55 PM   #2752
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Go with a TKR5518 front bumper its the older style but mounts better!
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Old 12-20-2015, 06:26 PM   #2753
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the old style front bumper is discontinued....
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:08 AM   #2754
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Smile

I had the same problem but I use De racing skid plates for the rear. So i took a "rear" skid plate put it in the front and trimmed a little off so it would line up with the holes and for some reason I didn't have any more issues but def get the aluminum "A block" and don't over tighten the screw.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:35 AM   #2755
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I finished my kit yesterday. Very happy with how everything went together. The only issue I would like to address is on the steering. There is a little up down play in the bell cranks. Not much but enough to notice. I could not find a suitable shim in my RC parts bin to remove the play. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:23 AM   #2756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFuel11 View Post
Thanks for the response and I want to say the truck is great. My son won the A-Main with it last Friday night.

The issue is the bumper must be flexing enough to allow it to drop down below the chassis plate but it is not pulling the screw out of the front bulk head. The are where the bumper gets sand-wedged between the bulkhead and chassis is what is coming out and dropping below the chassis.

I have to dig the dirt out of the front screw hole, remove screw still that is still holding bumper to bulkhead, loosen screws that hold the bulkhead to chassis so I can get bumper back in place and then screw it all back together.

This is happening almost every run.

Again, not down on the truck, it works great, just need to get this issue resolved.

See Photos Below:



I haven't seen that issue before. I just tried to replicate it on some of trucks here and the only truck that the bumper popped out on was one where the A block was stripped. I can't see how the bumper can flex enough over that short of a distance to go from between the chassis and bulkhead to under the chassis unless the A block is stripped or the bumper isn't tight against the A block. Make sure your A block isn't stripped, if it's not make sure your bumper is wedged between the bulkhead and the chassis and that it is all the way up against the A block.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:34 AM   #2757
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I finished my kit yesterday. Very happy with how everything went together. The only issue I would like to address is on the steering. There is a little up down play in the bell cranks. Not much but enough to notice. I could not find a suitable shim in my RC parts bin to remove the play. Anyone have any recommendations?
If you're referring to the posts (where the servo saver rides) you could use 6x8x.1 shims to take up some of the play.
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:02 AM   #2758
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If you're referring to the posts (where the servo saver rides) you could use 6x8x.1 shims to take up some of the play.
Thanks, I found the P/N for a .2mm 6x8 shim TKR1230 on Tower. Would those work?
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:09 AM   #2759
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Thanks, I found the P/N for a .2mm 6x8 shim TKR1230 on Tower. Would those work?
They could work but I'd suggest .1 shims. These are from Kyosho and have .1 and .2 in there. .1mm can make a significant difference when shimming play out of parts.
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Old 12-21-2015, 03:54 PM   #2760
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the old style front bumper is discontinued....
lol dang well I better keep my old bumpers then!
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