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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-17-2015, 08:49 AM   #2731
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I don't have a 17mm conversion yet, but asked the wife for the M2C conversion for Christmas. I think it is worth a shot. Stripped two wheels at last Saturdays race.
If I get them for Christmas, I will post up what I think of them when I can.
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:58 AM   #2732
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Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
Ordered one last night from Tower. My SCTE 1.0 is going up for sale. I'll be running on a mid sized indoor track. I was thinking about the 17mm conversion kits. Does anyone run these? Are the carbon shock towers worth it? I'm planning on picking up the aluminum inner pin holders already.
The carbon towers were worth it for me. I kept bending the rear on. You may want to wait and see how the stock holds up or only get the rear cf tower for now. FierceRCsolutions sell all 4 hinge pin braces for $80. Personally, I only run the front one.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:48 AM   #2733
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I also run all 4 hinge pin braces and CF shock towers. The CF towers are a little lighter and a bit more rigid. They stay or go back to position after nasty crashes that would bend the AL. Eventually after enough of that though, the CF will snap instead of just bend. I like them though.

As for 17m hex, M2C would be the way to go if you want to do this. However, just getting the normal Tekno Aluminum clamping hexes for the truck fix most all of the issues that a few folks have had with the included lightened cast hexes. The replacements would be TKR5571A.

Lastly, if you haven't already, get a Tekno AL servo horn to fit the spine count of your chosen servo. That's really the only required upgrade on the vehicle, as the composite ones don't hold up well.
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Old 12-17-2015, 11:43 AM   #2734
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I also run all 4 hinge pin braces and CF shock towers. The CF towers are a little lighter and a bit more rigid. They stay or go back to position after nasty crashes that would bend the AL. Eventually after enough of that though, the CF will snap instead of just bend. I like them though.

As for 17m hex, M2C would be the way to go if you want to do this. However, just getting the normal Tekno Aluminum clamping hexes for the truck fix most all of the issues that a few folks have had with the included lightened cast hexes. The replacements would be TKR5571A.

Lastly, if you haven't already, get a Tekno AL servo horn to fit the spine count of your chosen servo. That's really the only required upgrade on the vehicle, as the composite ones don't hold up well.
I was going to use my Spektrum S6040 for steering duties. It worked good in the SCTE. Should work in the .3 just as well I think. So a 23spl Tekno horn is on order too.

Just curious but why the M2C instead of the Tekno hubs?
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Old 12-17-2015, 11:53 AM   #2735
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I was going to use my Spektrum S6040 for steering duties. It worked good in the SCTE. Should work in the .3 just as well I think. So a 23spl Tekno horn is on order too.

Just curious but why the M2C instead of the Tekno hubs?
the 6040 is a bit light in the TQ requirements, IMHO....Most will say at the least 200oz. Personally I shoot for at least 300ox & .10 speed
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:00 PM   #2736
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the 6040 is a bit light in the TQ requirements, IMHO....Most will say at the least 200oz. Personally I shoot for at least 300ox & .10 speed
I've got an S8000 I could borrow from my Revo but I'm not sure it will fit. The S8000 is a tall servo.

Ok, so if a new servo is in my future, what is the popular option now a days.
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:04 PM   #2737
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Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
Just curious but why the M2C instead of the Tekno hubs?
The Tekno 17mm hex conversion is composite and doesn't hold up well.
The Other option is the 17mm hex conversion for the EB48SL, which holds up VERY well, but it makes the vehicle wider to match eBuggy specs so tires won't fit under an SC body very well, nor be legal width for an SC.
The M2C 17mm hex conversion is just a 17mm hex for the SC stub axles and doesn't change width, so is what you'd want to use with either of the 2 or so 17mm SC wheel options.
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:17 PM   #2738
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Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
Ok, so if a new servo is in my future, what is the popular option now a days.
Here are ones I've used and liked in SC/SL. I've also used the Savox in full eBuggy but liked other options better for the full weight vehicle (there are cheaper Savox options that many others use, but I've also seen several problems in addition to them being power hungry, unlike the one I'm listing here). The Orion is my favorite and currently in my SCT410.3. The TrackStar is the cheapest and performed well, but it also didn't last more than a season for me. I've used all of these run off of an RX8 Gen2 on HV without power issues.

Savox 2274 (.08/347oz on HV)
Orion Vortex VDS2-HV 2607 (.07/361oz on HV)
Protek 130T (.08/355oz on HV)
TrackStar TS-900 (.09/258oz)

Anything over 200oz/in should work, though I always recommend at least 250oz/in for today's 4wd sc's, and I really suggest 300+ for durability and high traction turning power.
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:27 PM   #2739
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
The Tekno 17mm hex conversion is composite and doesn't hold up well.
The Other option is the 17mm hex conversion for the EB48SL, which holds up VERY well, but it makes the vehicle wider to match eBuggy specs so tires won't fit under an SC body very well, nor be legal width for an SC.
The M2C 17mm hex conversion is just a 17mm hex for the SC stub axles and doesn't change width, so is what you'd want to use with either of the 2 or so 17mm SC wheel options.
Ahh, ok. I think I was looking at the buggy adaptors you are talking about. TKR5570-17. I think I'll try the clamping hexes for now, I can always do the M2C conversion later. Maybe when I need to buy more tires.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:55 PM   #2740
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
You said "Like its sucking air"... Yeah, vented sucks air. That's why there's a hole in the cap.
Yes above the bladder. I'm saying getting air into the fluid either around the shock O-rings or around the bladder.

Reading back through this thread I'm not the only one having this issue
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Old 12-18-2015, 02:49 PM   #2741
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Originally Posted by KyJoe340 View Post
Just finished my .3 build. Everything was great except for the life of me I can't get the vent shock build to have 10% rebound. Starts out ok but then you pump it a few times and it's got about 70% rebound. Any ideas?

Like it's sucking air. So what happens is I can't get the front ride height below 27mm, I'm shooting for 22, not even close. My Mugens build perfect everytime. I want to add I'm one of the old guys, been doing this for over 20 years, so this isn't my first rodeo.
I have had this problem too. (But i am new to the hobby) I learned to push the shock shaft in very slowly to get all the bubbles out and after that fix the cap the last half turn. The cap has a bleeding hole (to be drilled) at the side and a vent-hole up to the pivot ball. The bladder is supported by a foam peace.
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Old 12-18-2015, 02:56 PM   #2742
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Thumbs up Soft spring in the rear

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Originally Posted by rekim View Post
i just finished building my sct410.3 and took it for a fast run around the block. the rear shocks seem really soft. do people typically change out the springs or just change to a heavier oil?

the fronts seem ok, maybe slightly stiff but i think overall ok if i strengthen the rears
The rear is perfectly soft if your car is not to heavy. The front springs seem to be to hard for my driving style, i took the green ones, would like to use even softer ones. To much on power steering i took away with more toe in of the rear axle.
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Old 12-18-2015, 03:02 PM   #2743
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Could someone tell me the width of the SCT410 with the EB48SL hubs?
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Old 12-18-2015, 07:11 PM   #2744
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Could someone tell me the width of the SCT410 with the EB48SL hubs?
It can vary slightly based on the other settings on your vehicle, but they do what they were intended to do, push the wheels out to full eBuggy width, which is significantly wider.
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:32 PM   #2745
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Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
I've got an S8000 I could borrow from my Revo but I'm not sure it will fit. The S8000 is a tall servo.

Ok, so if a new servo is in my future, what is the popular option now a days.
I just switched to a Futaba S9352HV, I run it on 7.4V and really am liking the feel of it, plenty strong and SUPER fast but not twitchy feeling.
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