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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-14-2015, 07:46 AM   #2716
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Just picked up a 410.3 so I'm going to put my original 410 up for sale. I have lunsford turnbuckles on my original 410 and would kinda like to keep them, can I swap them onto the .3 or is there a difference, was thinking the whole link, but looking for suggestions. Thanks!!
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:29 AM   #2717
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Default Tekno RC How To Videos

Hello everyone!

We have decided to make a series of videos that will help everyone get the most out of their Tekno RC cars. One of the most frequent questions we have received is regarding the turnbuckles and what is the easiest method to build them. Here is a short video that will help you with that!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-14-2015, 09:42 PM   #2718
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Just finished my .3 build. Everything was great except for the life of me I can't get the vent shock build to have 10% rebound. Starts out ok but then you pump it a few times and it's got about 70% rebound. Any ideas?

Like it's sucking air. So what happens is I can't get the front ride height below 27mm, I'm shooting for 22, not even close. My Mugens build perfect everytime. I want to add I'm one of the old guys, been doing this for over 20 years, so this isn't my first rodeo.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:21 AM   #2719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyJoe340 View Post
Just finished my .3 build. Everything was great except for the life of me I can't get the vent shock build to have 10% rebound. Starts out ok but then you pump it a few times and it's got about 70% rebound. Any ideas?

Like it's sucking air. So what happens is I can't get the front ride height below 27mm, I'm shooting for 22, not even close. My Mugens build perfect everytime. I want to add I'm one of the old guys, been doing this for over 20 years, so this isn't my first rodeo.
Make sure when you pump the shaft that you have the shock boot and spring perch on it or you can push the shock shaft up further into the shock than you should, which can cause a leak in the seal of the bladder and suck air like you mention.
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:30 PM   #2720
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Make sure when you pump the shaft that you have the shock boot and spring perch on it or you can push the shock shaft up further into the shock than you should, which can cause a leak in the seal of the bladder and suck air like you mention.
Hmmm, I wasn't aware of that. Might explain a couple times I have fought with a shock while building and was scratching my head. Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-15-2015, 04:08 PM   #2721
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justpoet,
Thanks, I'll try that. Had the boot on but not the perch.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:21 PM   #2722
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OK, looked at the spring perch it rides even with the top of the shock end so it has no effect on or off.
Rebuilt all the shocks....again, used different shock fluid. Still can't get the rebound I want. If I set it for 10% rebound I get 50 or 60. Still trying to figure this thing out.
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:42 PM   #2723
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i just finished building my sct410.3 and took it for a fast run around the block. the rear shocks seem really soft. do people typically change out the springs or just change to a heavier oil?

the fronts seem ok, maybe slightly stiff but i think overall ok if i strengthen the rears
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:27 PM   #2724
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A lot of people buy the pinks front and rear. But as for any option part I suspect you will need to play around with everything on your home tracks to figure out if you think you need any changes. I personally installed VRP valved shock pistons so I could run heavier oils but retain the rebound characteristics of the lighter stuff. Seems to work very well for the 410.3
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:28 PM   #2725
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Originally Posted by rekim View Post
i just finished building my sct410.3 and took it for a fast run around the block. the rear shocks seem really soft. do people typically change out the springs or just change to a heavier oil?

the fronts seem ok, maybe slightly stiff but i think overall ok if i strengthen the rears
Definitely go heavier oils in the rear. I've changed a lot in my setup from stock. Oil, spring, and pistons....Still searching for the right setup myself.
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:15 PM   #2726
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anyone tried running thicker oil in the front diff,seems to be taking away more on power steering than im use to
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:57 PM   #2727
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anyone tried running thicker oil in the front diff,seems to be taking away more on power steering than im use to
Try thicker ctr diff first.
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:58 PM   #2728
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Originally Posted by KyJoe340 View Post
Just finished my .3 build. Everything was great except for the life of me I can't get the vent shock build to have 10% rebound. Starts out ok but then you pump it a few times and it's got about 70% rebound. Any ideas?

Like it's sucking air. So what happens is I can't get the front ride height below 27mm, I'm shooting for 22, not even close. My Mugens build perfect everytime. I want to add I'm one of the old guys, been doing this for over 20 years, so this isn't my first rodeo.
You said "Like its sucking air"... Yeah, vented sucks air. That's why there's a hole in the cap.
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:02 PM   #2729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyJoe340 View Post
OK, looked at the spring perch it rides even with the top of the shock end so it has no effect on or off.
Rebuilt all the shocks....again, used different shock fluid. Still can't get the rebound I want. If I set it for 10% rebound I get 50 or 60. Still trying to figure this thing out.
Seems like I have to get a run or two on my car before rebound will hold. Guess that breaks in the bladders a little. Idk.
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:34 AM   #2730
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Ordered one last night from Tower. My SCTE 1.0 is going up for sale. I'll be running on a mid sized indoor track. I was thinking about the 17mm conversion kits. Does anyone run these? Are the carbon shock towers worth it? I'm planning on picking up the aluminum inner pin holders already.
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