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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-02-2015, 10:09 PM   #2671
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
I really like the ergonomic adjust-ability of the M12 .
She'll love it.
Yeah, she asked me to explain the features of each and by the end of the discussion decided to go with the M12S. I will get plenty of real time testing on them all however to see which suits my taste. I plan to get the Futaba 4PX-R as soon as it releases as well.
Same as for the trucks. They are both fixed up real good with most of the goods, but it's going to come down to preference.
Have a close look at those inverted shocks on that Losi...


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Old 12-03-2015, 12:19 AM   #2672
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im running it in E light form right now,the 4700 was causing me some issues untill i put a fan on it,soldered the bolts on the motor from the back and the front,terrible design to remove motor with tiny screws that wont stay tight. geared it down to 13 and cut some big holes in the body,now it seems much better. Im using a rx8 with no timing,but im not sure how to set it to match punch of 4 from hw esc. Im running epa at 65% and throttle curve flat.
I took the front end apart,couldnt find anything wrong,bearings all good,diff fluid looked good,maybe possibly a roughed up shim,one each on either side of diff,added some thicker fluid,trying 10k. passenger side wheel was still swelling harder on accel and even a wot. Held passenger wheel and gave it mid throttle for 5 min or so and it seemed to balance out a lil better after that.not sure whats causing that
Holding one wheel and giving partial throttle for a while will break in/wear in the diff. That being said, try swapping the tires. If the same side still does it, something mechanical is up. If the opposite side now does it, it is probably just a difference in the foams or gluing of the tire on one side.

For the RX8, try about 50 for current limit, 0 timing, and full epa. You shouldn't need to turn down your speed to keep cool. For a medium sized track I'd still run a 16 on there, though I've done 15 on small tracks once or twice when there was lots of traction. For keeping the motor cool, the biggest thing is to open up the scoop on the stock body. It'll actually channel air down onto the motor to cool it. That being said, short course electronics do get hot in eBuggy Lite, so a good fan is a great thing.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:06 AM   #2673
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ive had some luck with holding one wheel when a bearing is sligthly binding,but ive never had to do that to break in a diff before,I did switch wheels and got same result. Im guessing the tolerances on the diff gears are binding slightly. it did help a bit just adding 10 k fluid.

I cut a bunch holes in body and it did help some,i added a castle fan that im not very impressed with,The air has no where to go in the shroud,so i raised it with some 2 sided tape and drilled some holes in the lower shroud. The 4700 motor will not stay cool with a 15 or 16 pinion. Ill try lowing the current to 50 from 65% I didnt mean epa in the above post. Everyone has switched to the hw 4000 motor on this track with heavy trucks. I will say it is very fast with a 13 though and does work,but in practice running over 10 min it gets up in the 180s. I like to motor and gear so that you can run till the lipo hits lvc and still not be overly hot,I like most people get alot more practive track time than race time.

Last edited by ResultsRC; 12-03-2015 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:35 AM   #2674
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anyone have a better fan setup reccomdation,this one doesnt flow much even modified
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:01 PM   #2675
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anyone have a better fan setup reccomdation,this one doesnt flow much even modified
Get the sumo racing fan.
http://www.sumo-racing.com/Tekno_SCT410_Fan_Kit.html
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:45 PM   #2676
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thats a nice looking fan kit,twice as big as most

tried it out tonight with the thicker front diff oil at 10k,that some of the new setups are reccomending,didnt really like it that much,seemed like it took away on power steering to much.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:48 PM   #2677
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Why are you guys needing fans? I've never had heat issues with any of my motors.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:38 PM   #2678
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Yeah, she asked me to explain the features of each and by the end of the discussion decided to go with the M12S. I will get plenty of real time testing on them all however to see which suits my taste. I plan to get the Futaba 4PX-R as soon as it releases as well.
Same as for the trucks. They are both fixed up real good with most of the goods, but it's going to come down to preference.
Have a close look at those inverted shocks on that Losi...


whoa!!!! Awesome inverted shock. I've been looking for ways to do that on the 410.3 but it doesn't look like an easy task.
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:54 PM   #2679
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Default Threads on pushrods wrong way

Servicing my car these days, i changed some rod ends. Reminding my build in April, i recognized that the threads on the pushrods are the wrong way. Or maybe just the little mark, that signs the left thread is on the wrong side.

While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)

But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.

Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
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Old 12-04-2015, 05:09 AM   #2680
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Originally Posted by FAO View Post
Servicing my car these days, i changed some rod ends. Reminding my build in April, i recognized that the threads on the pushrods are the wrong way. Or maybe just the little mark, that signs the left thread is on the wrong side.

While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)

But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.

Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
On mine, I have the mark point to the left side of the truck on all six rods/turnbuckle. Rotating the rods towards the front of the car shortens the links. Rotating the rods toward the rear lenghtens the links.

Are you saying you have all the marks on your rods pointing towards the same side of the truck (left or right), but rotating the rod towards the front of the car shortens some of the links, but lenghtens the other ones?
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Old 12-04-2015, 05:28 AM   #2681
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anyone have a better fan setup reccomdation,this one doesnt flow much even modified
Shouldn't need a fan. Just adds weight and draws power.
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:05 AM   #2682
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Originally Posted by FAO View Post
Servicing my car these days, i changed some rod ends. Reminding my build in April, i recognized that the threads on the pushrods are the wrong way. Or maybe just the little mark, that signs the left thread is on the wrong side.

While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)

But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.

Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
On mine, I have the mark point to the left side of the truck on all six rods/turnbuckle. Rotating the rods towards the front of the car shortens the links. Rotating the rods toward the rear lenghtens the links.

Are you saying you have all the marks on your rods pointing towards the same side of the truck (left or right), but rotating the rod towards the front of the car shortens some of the links, but lenghtens the other ones?
On my first SCT410.0, some of the turnbuckles had the mark on the left hand threads and some had the mark on the right hand threads...
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:10 AM   #2683
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On my first SCT410.0, some of the turnbuckles had the mark on the left hand threads and some had the mark on the right hand threads...
Ohhhh...if you have an off season, I probably would contact Tekno about getting the correct ones. They may even send the correct ones out without you having to send the wrong ones back. That way, you can keep racing.
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:57 AM   #2684
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Shouldn't need a fan. Just adds weight and draws power.
i can finish a race with the fan unplugged, im running longer in practice and it eases the load and heat on the elecs. 4700kv down to a 13 pin will run good bit over 10 min in practice,its as fast as i need to go on this size track
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Old 12-04-2015, 10:09 AM   #2685
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Ohhhh...if you have an off season, I probably would contact Tekno about getting the correct ones. They may even send the correct ones out without you having to send the wrong ones back. That way, you can keep racing.
I pay no attention to those marks after the car is assembled... I always set my turnbuckles so that turning to the front of the car shortens and turning to the rear lengthens (back out).
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