R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree68Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-29-2015, 09:51 AM   #2656
Tech Regular
 
Carter Flotron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 284
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
66 Ford on the 410.3




Man that thing is sweet!
__________________
Thanks to all my sponsors for 2016!
|Pro-line Racing|Hobbywing North America|Highest Servos|Fierce RC Solutions|
Carter Flotron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2015, 01:45 PM   #2657
Tech Master
 
Matthew_Armeni's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,437
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
This body in my opinion is really under rated in the way it handles on the trucks. Not only will it self right almost every time a roll over occurs, it also makes driving the truck easier for some strange reason. I know it must be subconscious, but it just seems like you can tell what is going on with the way the body rolls and leans making it easier to make quick corrections. I realize how dumb that sounds, but if you don't believe me you need to try this shell and find out for your self.
That's currently the shell I've been running and I 100% agree with you. I thought it would handle poorly without cutting out some holes but it actually handles great. Plus it has the added benefit of annoying competitors that lose to it .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
I'm curious...can you put that body on a scale?? want to see the different!!
Mine weighs 1/2 lb. My truck without a body is 5.45 lbs and with it the truck comes in at 5.95 lbs. I'm not sure what other body's weigh so I don't know if that's good, bad, or average.
__________________
Tekno RC
Matthew_Armeni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2015, 04:56 PM   #2658
Tech Master
 
Lowe's48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,005
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

(quote)Mine weighs 1/2 lb. My truck without a body is 5.45 lbs and with it the truck comes in at 5.95 lbs. I'm not sure what other body's weigh so I don't know if that's good, bad, or average.[/QUOTE]

Proline flo-tek fusion came in at .485 lbs...not a whole lot different only 6 grams!!
Interesting
__________________
Tekno Sct410.3-VRP,HW120 SCT-PRO,Pro4-4300kv,Hitec,LRP 8000/2s
Tekno SL.3-VRP,HW120 SCT-PRO,T8i-1950,Hitec,LRP 5000 4s
Weapon of choice : Airtronics M12
Home track : Coyote Hobbies,Ca
Lowe's48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2015, 07:18 PM   #2659
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 254
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Anyone know if tekno sells a tuning kit like losi use to do for the 1.0 scte. This kit at this level of racing should have come with the alum pin holders,carbon towers and alum shock caps,can all this be bought together for a reasonable price?

That body looks really square on both ends,why do you feel like it rights itself more often than the stock body?
How many are using the hw4700 with success in this truck?
ResultsRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2015, 06:45 AM   #2660
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 43
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
This is the kind of stuff that will be in the guide. The guide is getting close, we've had to go to the track a few times to confirm some setup theories and also figure out the best way to explain them. We've had to really break down what is happening to the car when a given setup is on there and more importantly when it's happening to make sure we don't give the wrong info.
Looking forward to the guide!!!!
Hungryarch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2015, 04:20 PM   #2661
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 27
Default

Hey Matt. What does moving the shocks in on the arms front and rear do. Also what does moving the shocks out on the towers do. The info you gave is golden. I have the old 410 but I have the new spindles and steering stops installed and like how it fixed my inside wheel flopping around. The anti-squat advice is great. I have the aluminum C block on order so I can get 1 degree of anti-squat. Not sure if the old truck can go 0. But with the short wheelbase the drive shafts going forward it has a nice amount of anti-squat. I run an inside clay track high bite. There are 180 turns that have jumps right after the turn so you have to power up the jumps and running little anti-squat made the truck jump much better off of those type of jumps. I do run RC8.2 springs Silver 4.3 front 3.5 rate rear. Truck dosent traction roll though still slides with those heavy springs was thinking of trying no sway bars or the lightest possible. We run Proline PRIME tires ss compund. All the other Tekno guys also run these rate springs but have you guys tried no sway bars? Thanks...
taz169 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2015, 05:56 PM   #2662
Tech Addict
 
Josh L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville VA
Posts: 665
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
Anyone know if tekno sells a tuning kit like losi use to do for the 1.0 scte. This kit at this level of racing should have come with the alum pin holders,carbon towers and alum shock caps,can all this be bought together for a reasonable price?

That body looks really square on both ends,why do you feel like it rights itself more often than the stock body?
How many are using the hw4700 with success in this truck?
The top is tall and sorta rounded on the corners, usually enough to allow inertial energy from a roll to flip right back to it's wheels. Obviously you try not to roll, but if and when you do it's sorta cool to not need a turn over man half as much as one would with the typical bodies.
But like I said before in regard to handling and air borne maneuvers, the real trick with these bodies is knowing how to line them up more rearward so that the front bumper stay outside the grill, but just barely.
Once you get the body pin holes where you want them, then put a normal body back on (assuming you have that one set right) and measure from the top of the wheels to the bottom of the fenders for easy clearance reference. Put the 66 body back on and bring the body down to meet those clearances. Only then should you start trimming off the forward front fenders like I did in the pictures. Front body bumper is trimmed completely off.

As for the hobbywing 4700, that is a great motor. Hands down one of the best out there for this class. If you are running tighter indoor, you might want to go lower KV for a slight edge with punch out the corners and more efficiency, but honestly I have never felt under powered in any circumstance with mine on 15,16,and 17t pinions, track depending of course. You will want to keep the timing pretty much dialed out to 0, with a 3-4 punch. That is about the most well rounded power band with a 16t. Only come up in timing if your running open long sweeping tracks. If your blowing out with wheel spins, lower the punch and it will smooth right out. Don't go lower than 6500 75C packs if you plan to make it past a 8-10 minute mains.

Last edited by Josh L; 11-30-2015 at 06:46 PM.
Josh L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2015, 07:04 PM   #2663
Tech Addict
 
Josh L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville VA
Posts: 665
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
Hey Matt. What does moving the shocks in on the arms front and rear do. Also what does moving the shocks out on the towers do. The info you gave is golden. I have the old 410 but I have the new spindles and steering stops installed and like how it fixed my inside wheel flopping around. The anti-squat advice is great. I have the aluminum C block on order so I can get 1 degree of anti-squat. Not sure if the old truck can go 0. But with the short wheelbase the drive shafts going forward it has a nice amount of anti-squat. I run an inside clay track high bite. There are 180 turns that have jumps right after the turn so you have to power up the jumps and running little anti-squat made the truck jump much better off of those type of jumps. I do run RC8.2 springs Silver 4.3 front 3.5 rate rear. Truck dosent traction roll though still slides with those heavy springs was thinking of trying no sway bars or the lightest possible. We run Proline PRIME tires ss compund. All the other Tekno guys also run these rate springs but have you guys tried no sway bars? Thanks...
Many people toss the sway bars, but most are the people who run really stiff and wide suspension. When you move the bottoms in and or the tops out, you will get better strait line performance in the rough, but you will loose side bite and are more likely to traction roll around the turns.
The opposite it true for the other way around. If your sliding around turns a bit, you can stand the shocks up a little in the front, to attempt to gain side bite like that, but you can also tweek these things many other ways as well. What is more important to you right now is not what the truck settings can do, but how your driving style is. You first have to know and rightly call yourself out on your good habits and bad alike.
If your a smooth driver and run off power through some of the turns, then you could majorly benefit from something as simple as adding ackerman to your steering by moving the drag link on the bell cranks. That will majorly improve your off power push tendencies and allow a smooth roll out. But if your a power on giver er hell sorta guy, then you would do better with less to no ackerman, as this will improve forward traction allowing the front to pull the truck into and around the turns with constant power or bliping the throttle through the turn. Another thing to consider is your roll center. You may need to lower or raise it, depending on how reactive you want the response. Everything you do to give you an edge somewhere will take it away from somewhere else. Its ultimately you that will have to decide on what is an acceptable loss, vs how well the gain improved the area you where previously struggling with. If you run faster and more consistent, then your obviously moving in the right direction. If not, back the setting back out and try to get the improvement else where.
Josh L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2015, 03:23 AM   #2664
Tech Addict
 
Dan.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S/W lower Michigan
Posts: 748
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
Hey Matt. What does moving the shocks in on the arms front and rear do. Also what does moving the shocks out on the towers do. The info you gave is golden. I have the old 410 but I have the new spindles and steering stops installed and like how it fixed my inside wheel flopping around. The anti-squat advice is great. I have the aluminum C block on order so I can get 1 degree of anti-squat. Not sure if the old truck can go 0. But with the short wheelbase the drive shafts going forward it has a nice amount of anti-squat. I run an inside clay track high bite. There are 180 turns that have jumps right after the turn so you have to power up the jumps and running little anti-squat made the truck jump much better off of those type of jumps. I do run RC8.2 springs Silver 4.3 front 3.5 rate rear. Truck dosent traction roll though still slides with those heavy springs was thinking of trying no sway bars or the lightest possible. We run Proline PRIME tires ss compund. All the other Tekno guys also run these rate springs but have you guys tried no sway bars? Thanks...
Taz, download this PDF from Hudy. It does a pretty good job of explaining what different changes do, might help you out with your changes.
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...e0527d250da441
__________________
Tekno EB48.3/Tekno EB48SL/Tekno SCT410.3
Dan.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2015, 03:57 AM   #2665
Tech Master
 
SCUBA STEVE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,836
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Is anyone running the Daniel Lewis setup? I was thinking about trying it But have a few questions.
The cst seems high, especialy 800 in the front?
Also 0 antisquat and 4 rear toe!?
All the talk of adding washers to the spindle epa but he has 0 ???
So I guess I want to make sure it was correct when added to the Tekno web site and if so how do you guys like it???
SCUBA STEVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2015, 05:34 AM   #2666
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 43
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
Taz, download this PDF from Hudy. It does a pretty good job of explaining what different changes do, might help you out with your changes.
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...e0527d250da441
Sorry if I sound like a noob, but this is INCREDIBLE...where's this thing been hiding?!?! Thanks so much!!!
Hungryarch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2015, 11:22 AM   #2667
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1,220
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCUBA STEVE View Post
Is anyone running the Daniel Lewis setup? I was thinking about trying it But have a few questions.
The cst seems high, especialy 800 in the front?
Also 0 antisquat and 4 rear toe!?
All the talk of adding washers to the spindle epa but he has 0 ???
So I guess I want to make sure it was correct when added to the Tekno web site and if so how do you guys like it???
I'm running Daniel Lewis set up in medium track except shock oil and rear camber drilling inside rear tower. The best set up for my driving skills
raved007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2015, 08:21 PM   #2668
Tech Addict
 
Josh L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville VA
Posts: 665
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Just got these three in today. Looks like the M12s is headed into the tekno. They are all three really nice systems. But it will be fun figuring out which does best!

Josh L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2015, 08:34 PM   #2669
Tech Master
 
Lowe's48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,005
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Just got these three in today. Looks like the M12s is headed into the tekno. They are all three really nice systems. But it will be fun figuring out which does best!

I really like the ergonomic adjust-ability of the M12 .
She'll love it.
__________________
Tekno Sct410.3-VRP,HW120 SCT-PRO,Pro4-4300kv,Hitec,LRP 8000/2s
Tekno SL.3-VRP,HW120 SCT-PRO,T8i-1950,Hitec,LRP 5000 4s
Weapon of choice : Airtronics M12
Home track : Coyote Hobbies,Ca
Lowe's48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2015, 09:51 PM   #2670
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 254
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
The top is tall and sorta rounded on the corners, usually enough to allow inertial energy from a roll to flip right back to it's wheels. Obviously you try not to roll, but if and when you do it's sorta cool to not need a turn over man half as much as one would with the typical bodies.
But like I said before in regard to handling and air borne maneuvers, the real trick with these bodies is knowing how to line them up more rearward so that the front bumper stay outside the grill, but just barely.
Once you get the body pin holes where you want them, then put a normal body back on (assuming you have that one set right) and measure from the top of the wheels to the bottom of the fenders for easy clearance reference. Put the 66 body back on and bring the body down to meet those clearances. Only then should you start trimming off the forward front fenders like I did in the pictures. Front body bumper is trimmed completely off.

As for the hobbywing 4700, that is a great motor. Hands down one of the best out there for this class. If you are running tighter indoor, you might want to go lower KV for a slight edge with punch out the corners and more efficiency, but honestly I have never felt under powered in any circumstance with mine on 15,16,and 17t pinions, track depending of course. You will want to keep the timing pretty much dialed out to 0, with a 3-4 punch. That is about the most well rounded power band with a 16t. Only come up in timing if your running open long sweeping tracks. If your blowing out with wheel spins, lower the punch and it will smooth right out. Don't go lower than 6500 75C packs if you plan to make it past a 8-10 minute mains.
im running it in E light form right now,the 4700 was causing me some issues untill i put a fan on it,soldered the bolts on the motor from the back and the front,terrible design to remove motor with tiny screws that wont stay tight. geared it down to 13 and cut some big holes in the body,now it seems much better. Im using a rx8 with no timing,but im not sure how to set it to match punch of 4 from hw esc. Im running epa at 65% and throttle curve flat.
I took the front end apart,couldnt find anything wrong,bearings all good,diff fluid looked good,maybe possibly a roughed up shim,one each on either side of diff,added some thicker fluid,trying 10k. passenger side wheel was still swelling harder on accel and even a wot. Held passenger wheel and gave it mid throttle for 5 min or so and it seemed to balance out a lil better after that.not sure whats causing that

Last edited by ResultsRC; 12-02-2015 at 10:04 PM.
ResultsRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Tags
sct410, sct410.3, short course, short course 4x4, tekno


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:08 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net