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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-23-2015, 09:10 PM   #2626
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Someone joined the club...ruh-roh shaggy!!




.
Bearings all feel good and diff feels smooth. I haven't taken diff out and checked on shims. I didn't build this e light so not sure if shims were used at all. I've spoke to a few at the track that don't build them shims and have better luck. I was told by. Tekno guy at track if diff fluid is to light it would cause one side to spin up faster cause one side is direct drive ? Don't really understand that theory.
Our track has 3 hairpin and 180 turns. Running washers just kills performance. I'm running just screws and thinking on gettin rid of those even. The wheels are stopping a lil less than 1/2 inch from the back side of the arms. I get far better steering with this e light .3 setup when the wheels stop 1/8 from the arms. The rear end doesn't start washing out until the inside wheel touches the arm and servo looses leverage on them. I can't imagine what 4 washers would do. The turn radius going slow would be a 5 ft wide circle. Don't know how anyone could deal with that on any 180 turns at all unless they are pushing it so hard they are sliding through them.
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Old 11-24-2015, 12:43 PM   #2627
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Someone joined the club...ruh-roh shaggy!!




Lol....get r done! !
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Old 11-24-2015, 12:58 PM   #2628
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.
Bearings all feel good and diff feels smooth. I haven't taken diff out and checked on shims. I didn't build this e light so not sure if shims were used at all. I've spoke to a few at the track that don't build them shims and have better luck. I was told by. Tekno guy at track if diff fluid is to light it would cause one side to spin up faster cause one side is direct drive ? Don't really understand that theory.
Our track has 3 hairpin and 180 turns. Running washers just kills performance. I'm running just screws and thinking on gettin rid of those even. The wheels are stopping a lil less than 1/2 inch from the back side of the arms. I get far better steering with this e light .3 setup when the wheels stop 1/8 from the arms. The rear end doesn't start washing out until the inside wheel touches the arm and servo looses leverage on them. I can't imagine what 4 washers would do. The turn radius going slow would be a 5 ft wide circle. Don't know how anyone could deal with that on any 180 turns at all unless they are pushing it so hard they are sliding through them.
The steering limiters are about consistency. Also, check the throw of the tires, with no stops, this inside the "flops" around making the handling inconsistent.
Do what you want, but know that the team drivers do know what they are talking about.
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Old 11-24-2015, 04:29 PM   #2629
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.
Bearings all feel good and diff feels smooth. I haven't taken diff out and checked on shims. I didn't build this e light so not sure if shims were used at all. I've spoke to a few at the track that don't build them shims and have better luck. I was told by. Tekno guy at track if diff fluid is to light it would cause one side to spin up faster cause one side is direct drive ? Don't really understand that theory.
Our track has 3 hairpin and 180 turns. Running washers just kills performance. I'm running just screws and thinking on gettin rid of those even. The wheels are stopping a lil less than 1/2 inch from the back side of the arms. I get far better steering with this e light .3 setup when the wheels stop 1/8 from the arms. The rear end doesn't start washing out until the inside wheel touches the arm and servo looses leverage on them. I can't imagine what 4 washers would do. The turn radius going slow would be a 5 ft wide circle. Don't know how anyone could deal with that on any 180 turns at all unless they are pushing it so hard they are sliding through them.
My track has 7 out of 9 turns that are basically a hairpin, 180, or some variation there of; the lanes are fairly small too. Put the steering stops in and the truck and buggy do not do well at all....however I never implemented all the other set up changes that are possible to compensate for the steering stops as I did not have enough time on my hands that particular day. Never have had a problem with wash out of the rear end with or without steering stops. At any rate, I'll make all the changes for maximum steering that I can for the next practice day and adjust accordingly to see if I can make the steering stops work. I am always looking for ways to go faster in the corners and this just might work....
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Old 11-24-2015, 05:23 PM   #2630
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Lol....get r done! !
I'm gonna work on it all day Thursday, hopefully have it going by Friday to practice and race on Saturday.

Shout out to Lowe's48, answered a ton of my questions at our local track about the 410.3. Appreciate all the help
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Old 11-24-2015, 07:58 PM   #2631
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Anyone have problems building the diffs with the outdrives and fitting the gears onto them?
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:44 PM   #2632
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My track has 7 out of 9 turns that are basically a hairpin, 180, or some variation there of; the lanes are fairly small too. Put the steering stops in and the truck and buggy do not do well at all....however I never implemented all the other set up changes that are possible to compensate for the steering stops as I did not have enough time on my hands that particular day. Never have had a problem with wash out of the rear end with or without steering stops. At any rate, I'll make all the changes for maximum steering that I can for the next practice day and adjust accordingly to see if I can make the steering stops work. I am always looking for ways to go faster in the corners and this just might work....
let me know how it goes,but 4 washers takes almost half the steering away,I dont see it happening on that kinda track,but if you get it working even decent,let me know what other changes in setup you made to get it coming around quicker in tight corners
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:52 AM   #2633
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Default I implemented all these changes.

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First, if you have other springs to choose from, I would run (depending on how heavy your truck is) Pink/Pink or Black/Black F/R and move the front shocks in on the arms front and rear and all the way out on the tower front and rear. The green springs are too stiff I feel and probably felt good because of amount of antisquat. If you don't have other springs still move the shocks and set your ride height pretty much as low as low as you can, 22mm is the lowest I've had success with. Change your front kickup to 8 degrees by running the A block single dot down and the B block single dot up. While this will stop weight transfer into a corner (potentially taking away steering) it gives a very direct feel to the steering and makes the front tires "bite" a little better into the turns. You'll have to readjust your bumpsteer after this change. For the front camber link we've pretty much gone to always running the A position on the hub and either the 4 or 5 position on the tower depending on the amount of entry steering we need. The short link makes the truck land jumps really well. Run the 4 spot for a very controllable car on entry and if you need more steering into the turn run the 5. If you run the 5 spot you might want to run slightly less static camber and if you run the 4 you might want to run a little more due to the difference in their camber gains. We always start with about 1-2 degrees in the front, more camber usually gives more steering.
In the rear I usually run the 6/C position but if I need a little more corner entry steering or more on power rear traction I go to 6/B. Wheelbase is an easy change to make that can have an effect on on and off power traction as well. Longer wheelbase is usually more stable into a turn and when landing jumps but can be a little looser on power because there's less dogbone angle. Shorter is basically the opposite. I play with this pretty often because it's an easy change. Toe will change your wheelbase as well so it can have similar effects.
Ackermann will change your steering (obviously ), forward is usually smoother and will not steer as much off power and off center and will steer more on power. Rearward, more off power and off center and more pushy on power. I'm usually in the middle.
Droop can change the car a lot but honestly I never change mine. Limiting droop basically limits weight transfer on and off power and through turns. I run max droop (I don't even have the screws in my arms) and never play with it. Not the best advice I know but I drive my cars better with full droop. I have tested it a lot over the years and that's my personal preference.
Lastly (at least for this post, it's now a lot longer than I had planned) is swaybars. Basically the thinner the swaybar the more traction that end of the car has into and through a turn. So if you need more steering go thinner in the front or thicker on the back. If the front pushes through the turn go thinner in the front. If the car initiates the turn well but the rear sticks really well and can't rotate try thicker in the rear.

Finally, everyone drives a little differently. If something I've said here doesn't work for you (not Dragonfueled specifically, but anyone reading this) that's fine. Just remember what the change did to your car. And try to remember it in terms of on power, off power, into and out of turns so the next time you need to make a change to your car you'll know which way to go. Also, don't be afraid to make changes! It takes no time at all to swap out a pill, change a camber link, move a shock, change ride height, etc. The worst thing that happens is you don't like the way the car feels and you have to go back to where it was.
Thanks Matt for the wealth of information. I have literally made all the changes you suggested in your recent posts. I can see why they would make the 410.3 perform better. I will see at practice this weekend. I do have a couple of questions if you don't mind:

1) Will the same recommendations you made for the 410.3 work for and/or produce similar results for an EB48SL (I run both 410.3 and EB48SL) since they are the same chassis. I know there are few differences.

2) What is the new guide you and other referring too for the 410.3?

Thanks for your contributions to this thread. Love my 410.3, I call mine a "Tankno" SCT410.3 cause it never breaks!
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:21 PM   #2634
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I'm using a KO Propo RSx2 Power servo and the wires don't reach:/ Have never cut them servo is brand new, this sucks..
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:04 PM   #2635
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I'm using a KO Propo RSx2 Power servo and the wires don't reach:/ Have never cut them servo is brand new, this sucks..
None of my servos reach. Just use an extension.
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:52 PM   #2636
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None of my servos reach. Just use an extension.
Yea, I just don't have one so I can't finish I'll get one tomorrow then I'll be set.
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Old 11-27-2015, 12:55 AM   #2637
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Everything I can do is done for now until I get what I need to finish. The build is pretty straight forward, reminded me a lot of building my Mugen truggy.

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Old 11-27-2015, 06:52 AM   #2638
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Anyone have problems building the diffs with the outdrives and fitting the gears onto them?
For me, its kind of unclear what you have going on. Can you explain it further?
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:12 AM   #2639
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Anyone have problems building the diffs with the outdrives and fitting the gears onto them?
Make sure you don't have two washers "shims" stuck together on one or the other sides of the diff cups. If you do, it will not tighten down all the way and will bind the internal gears from pressure. I noticed the shims are so perfectly cut you can't hardly tell there is two of them stuck together sometimes just like new bank notes.
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:45 AM   #2640
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For me, its kind of unclear what you have going on. Can you explain it further?

Yea, one of the outdrives that came in my kit is machined wrong and is actually too big to fit into the diff housing or the metal gear inside the housing.
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