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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-22-2015, 12:29 PM   #2611
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
First, if you have other springs to choose from, I would run (depending on how heavy your truck is) Pink/Pink or Black/Black F/R and move the front shocks in on the arms front and rear and all the way out on the tower front and rear. The green springs are too stiff I feel and probably felt good because of amount of antisquat. If you don't have other springs still move the shocks and set your ride height pretty much as low as low as you can, 22mm is the lowest I've had success with. Change your front kickup to 8 degrees by running the A block single dot down and the B block single dot up. While this will stop weight transfer into a corner (potentially taking away steering) it gives a very direct feel to the steering and makes the front tires "bite" a little better into the turns. You'll have to readjust your bumpsteer after this change. For the front camber link we've pretty much gone to always running the A position on the hub and either the 4 or 5 position on the tower depending on the amount of entry steering we need. The short link makes the truck land jumps really well. Run the 4 spot for a very controllable car on entry and if you need more steering into the turn run the 5. If you run the 5 spot you might want to run slightly less static camber and if you run the 4 you might want to run a little more due to the difference in their camber gains. We always start with about 1-2 degrees in the front, more camber usually gives more steering.
In the rear I usually run the 6/C position but if I need a little more corner entry steering or more on power rear traction I go to 6/B. Wheelbase is an easy change to make that can have an effect on on and off power traction as well. Longer wheelbase is usually more stable into a turn and when landing jumps but can be a little looser on power because there's less dogbone angle. Shorter is basically the opposite. I play with this pretty often because it's an easy change. Toe will change your wheelbase as well so it can have similar effects.
Ackermann will change your steering (obviously ), forward is usually smoother and will not steer as much off power and off center and will steer more on power. Rearward, more off power and off center and more pushy on power. I'm usually in the middle.
Droop can change the car a lot but honestly I never change mine. Limiting droop basically limits weight transfer on and off power and through turns. I run max droop (I don't even have the screws in my arms) and never play with it. Not the best advice I know but I drive my cars better with full droop. I have tested it a lot over the years and that's my personal preference.
Lastly (at least for this post, it's now a lot longer than I had planned) is swaybars. Basically the thinner the swaybar the more traction that end of the car has into and through a turn. So if you need more steering go thinner in the front or thicker on the back. If the front pushes through the turn go thinner in the front. If the car initiates the turn well but the rear sticks really well and can't rotate try thicker in the rear.

Finally, everyone drives a little differently. If something I've said here doesn't work for you (not Dragonfueled specifically, but anyone reading this) that's fine. Just remember what the change did to your car. And try to remember it in terms of on power, off power, into and out of turns so the next time you need to make a change to your car you'll know which way to go. Also, don't be afraid to make changes! It takes no time at all to swap out a pill, change a camber link, move a shock, change ride height, etc. The worst thing that happens is you don't like the way the car feels and you have to go back to where it was.
Sounds like someone has been reading the "secret" tekno setup guide haha
Thanx for the priceless info matthew, as dragonfueled said, have to take it one bit at a time to really let it all sink in. If this is the kind of stuff that will be in the guide I'm gonna have a lot of homework. Any word on when it will be officially released? And thanx again.
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:03 PM   #2612
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Sounds like someone has been reading the "secret" tekno setup guide haha
Thanx for the priceless info matthew, as dragonfueled said, have to take it one bit at a time to really let it all sink in. If this is the kind of stuff that will be in the guide I'm gonna have a lot of homework. Any word on when it will be officially released? And thanx again.
This is the kind of stuff that will be in the guide. The guide is getting close, we've had to go to the track a few times to confirm some setup theories and also figure out the best way to explain them. We've had to really break down what is happening to the car when a given setup is on there and more importantly when it's happening to make sure we don't give the wrong info.
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Old 11-22-2015, 04:04 PM   #2613
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Adding washers under the inner or outer ball stud will increase bump out.
Sorry I am a little slow but it seems more complicated than that. So no washers is 0 bump steer? What about the ball stud orientation. There seems to be a Lot of variables according to the setup sheets but they are not quantified.
For example I notice Lutz changed the bump from his Barnstormers to Gas Champs setup but what are the values?
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Old 11-22-2015, 04:35 PM   #2614
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Sorry I am a little slow but it seems more complicated than that. So no washers is 0 bump steer? What about the ball stud orientation. There seems to be a Lot of variables according to the setup sheets but they are not quantified.
For example I notice Lutz changed the bump from his Barnstormers to Gas Champs setup but what are the values?
There aren't any values for the bumpsteer. Once you have all of you other settings where you want them (ackermann, camber links, kick up, arm sweep, toe) cycle you suspension with your radio and car on (so the servo holds the steering steady) and look down at the tires. If you get more toe out as you compress the suspension this is "bump out". To remove the bump out move the ball stud closer to the spindle by removing the washers underneath of it. You can also move the inner ball stud closer to the ackermann plate. If you still have bump out you can flip the ball stud to get it even closer.
If you have bump in simply move the ball in the opposite direction. Re-check your toe setting after you achieve the bump steer you want.

This can be a trial and error sort of thing. Do it often enough and you'll get a good feel of how many washers to move around. Anytime we one of the changes I listed we check our bumpsteer.
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:05 PM   #2615
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I was hoping someone could confirm my measurements. I am looking to order CV Pins in bulk and keep several on hand. I have a cheap pair of digital calibers from freight harbor which are good but sometimes the measurements are slightly off.

Anyways I measured the CV pins at 2x9.75mm, I was hoping someone could confirm those are the correct measurements.

Thanks,
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:26 PM   #2616
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Originally Posted by jjl1 View Post
Sorry I am a little slow but it seems more complicated than that. So no washers is 0 bump steer? What about the ball stud orientation. There seems to be a Lot of variables according to the setup sheets but they are not quantified.
For example I notice Lutz changed the bump from his Barnstormers to Gas Champs setup but what are the values?
Like Matthew said you have to measure what you have and adjust. But anytime you change front mount geometry you are also changing the bump steer. So you have to learn to adjust accordingly. Lowering the steering rack ball or raising the spindle ball will increase bump out. So your bump steer settings will be completely different when using max front kick up versus min kick up. That will change the height of the spindle pivot ball in relation to the steering rack so you'll have to make some adjustments.
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:51 PM   #2617
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
This is the kind of stuff that will be in the guide. The guide is getting close, we've had to go to the track a few times to confirm some setup theories and also figure out the best way to explain them. We've had to really break down what is happening to the car when a given setup is on there and more importantly when it's happening to make sure we don't give the wrong info.
Coming from a Losi scte of 2 years , now 5 months in to my 410.3 without knowing about the steering stop screws. (thanks to this wonderful forum)
Now that i have them stop screws installed, let me to realize that i have been chasing the wrong issues all these time. But the good news is i'm now on the right track.Just a few more test and set up change and it'll be dialed.
And yes the guide would be a wonderful tool for sure
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:56 PM   #2618
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Coming from a Losi scte of 2 years , now 5 months in to my 410.3 with out knowing about the steering stop screws. (thanks to this wonderful forum)
Now that i have them stop screws in, let me to realize that i have been chasing the wrong issues all this time. But the good news is i'm now on the right track.Just a few more test and set up change and it'll be dialed.
And yes the guide would be a wonderful tool for sure
Same here first time to run with steering stop 1mm washer got Top qualifier and win in amain.
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:17 PM   #2619
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+1
Thanks Matthew and rcgod. The nickel finally dropped for me too.
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Old 11-22-2015, 09:14 PM   #2620
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Same here first time to run with steering stop 1mm washer got Top qualifier and win in amain.
Also the overall average 10-15 laps has improved ....always knew these 410.3 are better than that
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Old 11-22-2015, 09:23 PM   #2621
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Im having a issue with the front diff,the front passenger side wheel is spinning much faster and swelling the tire on that side at wot when lifted off the ground,looks like it may be swelling more even under a load down the strighrt away, bearings are fine and diff feels smooth? what could cause this?
also im hearing when their is a big diff on the amount of steering stop washers you would want to run between the tekno truck and buggy conversion or the old car conversion? Im running the 410.3 as a elight and dont really like the steering stop screws even with no washers,Im thinking on grinding the tip of them down a bit,with out them at all the servo looses leverage on the inside wheel and it flops it turns.
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:23 AM   #2622
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Im having a issue with the front diff,the front passenger side wheel is spinning much faster and swelling the tire on that side at wot when lifted off the ground,looks like it may be swelling more even under a load down the strighrt away, bearings are fine and diff feels smooth? what could cause this?
also im hearing when their is a big diff on the amount of steering stop washers you would want to run between the tekno truck and buggy conversion or the old car conversion? Im running the 410.3 as a elight and dont really like the steering stop screws even with no washers,Im thinking on grinding the tip of them down a bit,with out them at all the servo looses leverage on the inside wheel and it flops it turns.
Take the front end apart and check each bearing individually. Then put the driveshafts in the car and spin them by hand and make sure they are both free and smooth.

Also take the diff apart and make sure the shims are behind the large gears and not bound up. Spin each outdrive by hand and make sure they have the same resistance without the spider gears in the diff.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:52 AM   #2623
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Take the front end apart and check each bearing individually. Then put the driveshafts in the car and spin them by hand and make sure they are both free and smooth.

Also take the diff apart and make sure the shims are behind the large gears and not bound up. Spin each outdrive by hand and make sure they have the same resistance without the spider gears in the diff.
If everything's ok then .....on the stand install the front wheels and check for wheel binding.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:45 AM   #2624
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Im having a issue with the front diff,the front passenger side wheel is spinning much faster and swelling the tire on that side at wot when lifted off the ground,looks like it may be swelling more even under a load down the strighrt away, bearings are fine and diff feels smooth? what could cause this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Take the front end apart and check each bearing individually. Then put the driveshafts in the car and spin them by hand and make sure they are both free and smooth.

Also take the diff apart and make sure the shims are behind the large gears and not bound up. Spin each outdrive by hand and make sure they have the same resistance without the spider gears in the diff.
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
If everything's ok then .....on the stand install the front wheels and check for wheel binding.
What these guys said about troubleshooting the diff issue as well as checking the hubs and CV's for binding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
also im hearing when their is a big diff on the amount of steering stop washers you would want to run between the tekno truck and buggy conversion or the old car conversion? Im running the 410.3 as a elight and dont really like the steering stop screws even with no washers,Im thinking on grinding the tip of them down a bit,with out them at all the servo looses leverage on the inside wheel and it flops it turns.
On all of .3 vehicles, SC, SL, EB, NB, NT, and ET we recommend starting with 4 washers. The truggies are the only vehicle where we have run less, and we still ran 2. On the EB and NT we have run up to 6. Like I said before
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I understand why you would want to run no washers but unless your track only has jumps that launch straight and land straight and the only turns are tight 180's your truck will be faster and more consistent with more washers. Even if that's your track there are other ways to obtain steering. Believe me, it took awhile for us to convince all the drivers on the team (including a pro or two) to add more washers. No one likes the idea of limiting steering. But the results of doing this have been proven over and over. My advice for everyone is to run the truck with 4 washers and then tune in more steering other ways.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:30 PM   #2625
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Someone joined the club...ruh-roh shaggy!!




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