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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-17-2015, 07:39 PM   #2581
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I couldn't figure where it was you were talking about until you posted the pic. I looked in the manual and it says nothing about these screws, not to put them in and they're not on the parts list of screws. I did however write a note on the page that I had 2 extra 6mm button head screws. I am assuming they are the ones to use? Is it necessary to use washers or can I just back them out an equal amount of turns?
Using the washers is a good idea IMO, will make it more rigid. Make sure you reset your steering end points after installing the stops.
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:39 PM   #2582
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I couldn't figure where it was you were talking about until you posted the pic. I looked in the manual and it says nothing about these screws, not to put them in and they're not on the parts list of screws. I did however write a note on the page that I had 2 extra 6mm button head screws. I am assuming they are the ones to use? Is it necessary to use washers or can I just back them out an equal amount of turns?
Best to run the washer to ensure they're equal. Also they'll stay put better since you can tighten them down.
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:38 PM   #2583
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thats a good place to get consistent stopping points,my servo is high voltage and strong,but sometimes the speed of the servo causes the inside wheel to over steer.

I dont see what adding washers under the bolts on the steering links does to adjust bumpsteer,no matter how many washers you add there its just pushing the head of the bolt further away and doesnt move the height of the steering turn buckle?

also what is the servo mount for in the rear of car,I put a extra hobby wing pro esc back there on top of it ,it looks like if it where cut out that esc would fit there perfect,and get more weight towards the rear of the car, I thought it was not to cool to have the boxed in servo mount in the front for steering also,I use futaba hv servos that are a bit to wide to fit in it,that was a pain to dremel out.
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:49 PM   #2584
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thats a good place to get consistent stopping points,my servo is high voltage and strong,but sometimes the speed of the servo causes the inside wheel to over steer.

I dont see what adding washers under the bolts on the steering links does to adjust bumpsteer,no matter how many washers you add there its just pushing the head of the bolt further away and doesnt move the height of the steering turn buckle?

also what is the servo mount for in the rear of car,I put a extra hobby wing pro esc back there on top of it ,it looks like if it where cut out that esc would fit there perfect,and get more weight towards the rear of the car, I thought it was not to cool to have the boxed in servo mount in the front for steering also,I use futaba hv servos that are a bit to wide to fit in it,that was a pain to dremel out.
The servo mount in the back is used for mechanical brakes.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:11 PM   #2585
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I dont see what adding washers under the bolts on the steering links does to adjust bumpsteer,no matter how many washers you add there its just pushing the head of the bolt further away and doesnt move the height of the steering turn buckle?
It mostly keeps the threads of the bolt from poking too far out of the spindle as well as keeping all your adjustment washers right there when you need to make a change. It's the same on the ackermann plate.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:19 PM   #2586
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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
I dont see what adding washers under the bolts on the steering links does to adjust bumpsteer,no matter how many washers you add there its just pushing the head of the bolt further away and doesnt move the height of the steering turn buckle?
Based on the box setup, the bumpsteer washers are not doing anything, its just holding the washers. You adjust bumpsteer by placing the washers between the ballstud and ackerman plate and/or the ballstud and the steering spindle.
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Old 11-18-2015, 12:00 AM   #2587
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...also what is the servo mount for in the rear of car,I put a extra hobby wing pro esc back there on top of it ,it looks like if it where cut out that esc would fit there perfect,and get more weight towards the rear of the car, I thought it was not to cool to have the boxed in servo mount in the front for steering also,I use futaba hv servos that are a bit to wide to fit in it,that was a pain to dremel out.
..so did i. Sanva SRG Servos are a little bit to high also. I had to dremel out the chassis too. Wheigt distribution is nearly perfect with a motor less than 200g and a batterie of about 300g. What i do not like are the long cables for the motor corssing over the central diff. Thinking of mounting the ESC in front of the motor again, to get shorter connections. Beside that, i have issues with my Sanwa servos. I have 4 of them, and after a short while of usage (3 weekends), they begin to shatter very fast around the zero-point and get hot. If i give steeering input, there is no problem, but standing in the starting grid is a pain.
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Old 11-18-2015, 12:10 AM   #2588
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Do you need a spare set of a-arms, hubs, spindle steering for this thing?
No, you dont. But the shock boots are horrible. Got some from a friend "RB Products", seem to be much better.
Only thing i break was the "A" brace. I use the "C" brace made of aluminium to get less anti-squat too.
Because of the known front dive issue i bend the front driveshaft in some very high jumps landing nose down. But i am still using the plastic servo horn.
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:27 AM   #2589
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just thought it strange that in all the posted setups all bumpsteer washers are on the bottom of the bolt and not doing anything to change it,made me wonder why they are even in there?
Has anyone else tried running the esc in the rear with this spot cut out,I can throttle a sc to keep the nose up in most conditions,but we have a long double coming out of a 90 deg corner that has a immediate hairpin behind it leading into a tripple. the design makes no sense at all really and most roll it or crunch into the back side of it to scub speed, We only have 3 jumps on the track so i prefer to setup to jump all 3 even though its harder to do.it requires alot of throttle to make it but to stay on throttle in the air too long puts you to deep in corner for next turn,this is when you notice nose dive. Ive added some lead to rear to help,but dont wana haul extra weight in a truck this heavy to begin with. maybe esc in the rear would help? is anyone using mechanical brakes in this truck? with the braking modern sc motors have why would you do that?
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:39 AM   #2590
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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
just thought it strange that in all the posted setups all bumpsteer washers are on the bottom of the bolt and not doing anything to change it,made me wonder why they are even in there?
Has anyone else tried running the esc in the rear with this spot cut out,I can throttle a sc to keep the nose up in most conditions,but we have a long double coming out of a 90 deg corner that has a immediate hairpin behind it leading into a triple. the design makes no sense at all really and most roll it or crunch into the back side of it to scub speed, We only have 3 jumps on the track so i prefer to setup to jump all 3 even though its harder to do.it requires alot of throttle to make it but to stay on throttle in the air too long puts you to deep in corner for next turn,this is when you notice nose dive. Ive added some lead to rear to help,but dont wana haul extra weight in a truck this heavy to begin with. maybe esc in the rear would help? is anyone using mechanical brakes in this truck? with the braking modern sc motors have why would you do that?
Have you tried to slow down the rebound in the rear?
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:20 AM   #2591
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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
just thought it strange that in all the posted setups all bumpsteer washers are on the bottom of the bolt and not doing anything to change it,made me wonder why they are even in there?
Has anyone else tried running the esc in the rear with this spot cut out,I can throttle a sc to keep the nose up in most conditions,but we have a long double coming out of a 90 deg corner that has a immediate hairpin behind it leading into a tripple. the design makes no sense at all really and most roll it or crunch into the back side of it to scub speed, We only have 3 jumps on the track so i prefer to setup to jump all 3 even though its harder to do.it requires alot of throttle to make it but to stay on throttle in the air too long puts you to deep in corner for next turn,this is when you notice nose dive. Ive added some lead to rear to help,but dont wana haul extra weight in a truck this heavy to begin with. maybe esc in the rear would help? is anyone using mechanical brakes in this truck? with the braking modern sc motors have why would you do that?
The mechanical brake mount is a carry over from the ebuggy. Mechanical brakes are mostly used on truggies because it lowers esc temps. It also allows brake bias adjustment where braking with the esc doesn't.
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Old 11-18-2015, 11:34 PM   #2592
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Have you tried to slow down the rebound in the rear?
Tried a little thicker oil with same piston in scte but haven't tried in Tekno yet. It helped a bit. But I don't want to slow it up to much for the rest of the track. Lotta s turns and hair pins. What do u suggest
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:15 AM   #2593
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Tried a little thicker oil with same piston in scte but haven't tried in Tekno yet. It helped a bit. But I don't want to slow it up to much for the rest of the track. Lotta s turns and hair pins. What do u suggest
What's your anti-squat at? We've had great success running 1 degree or even 0. It really helps the truck jump level. To get on power traction back we've increased our toe to 3.5-4 degrees in the rear.
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:52 PM   #2594
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What's your anti-squat at? We've had great success running 1 degree or even 0. It really helps the truck jump level. To get on power traction back we've increased our toe to 3.5-4 degrees in the rear.
That's what I did with mine and it made a huge improvement.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:04 PM   #2595
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What's your anti-squat at? We've had great success running 1 degree or even 0. It really helps the truck jump level. To get on power traction back we've increased our toe to 3.5-4 degrees in the rear.
Yea, I have been running 0 antisquat and more rear toe in. I like it!
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