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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-30-2015, 06:53 AM   #2446
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I'm using an old HP supply. It only takes soldering on one resistor. Some others take a couple. You do need to be skilled at soldering SMALL spots though to do the conversion, but if you are it is easy. There's a thread on rcgroups devoted to power supplies that are known how to be converted. If you want to understand what's going on, or make sure what you're about to do is a known risk/plan, go check over there. If not, the eBay route will only cost about 20 bucks or so more for somebody to have already done it all for you.
I think I'll just go the eBay route and buy one already converted. Thanks.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:07 PM   #2447
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
I'm using an old HP supply. It only takes soldering on one resistor. Some others take a couple. You do need to be skilled at soldering SMALL spots though to do the conversion, but if you are it is easy. There's a thread on rcgroups devoted to power supplies that are known how to be converted. If you want to understand what's going on, or make sure what you're about to do is a known risk/plan, go check over there. If not, the eBay route will only cost about 20 bucks or so more for somebody to have already done it all for you.
Are you using the resistor to create a false load to initiate the PSU?
If so, do you realize that there is a negative voltage wire that you can just cross over to do the same thing without the resistor? This is how it is activated through the motherboard circuit when it's hooked up to a PC. The MB sends a negative voltage and it's on.
On a standard PC PSU there is a purple and brown wire (sometimes orange or green manu. depending).
I have built several out of the one's you pull from a normal PC and this is how I have always done it. There is bound to be the same sort of circuit on a redundant server variant as well.
The beauty of the fact is that you can simply use a low voltage switch in place of soldering the wires together to put the PSU in a standby mode and turn the fan off without needing to unplug the unit.
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:33 PM   #2448
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Are you using the resistor to create a false load to initiate the PSU?
If so, do you realize that there is a negative voltage wire that you can just cross over to do the same thing without the resistor? This is how it is activated through the motherboard circuit when it's hooked up to a PC. The MB sends a negative voltage and it's on.
On a standard PC PSU there is a purple and brown wire (sometimes orange or green manu. depending).
I have built several out of the one's you pull from a normal PC and this is how I have always done it. There is bound to be the same sort of circuit on a redundant server variant as well.
The beauty of the fact is that you can simply use a low voltage switch in place of soldering the wires together to put the PSU in a standby mode and turn the fan off without needing to unplug the unit.
How does a PC or server motherboard send a negative voltage to the power supply, before it is turned on? Where does that power come from?

I thought at least some, perhaps not all, of the PC power supplies were designed to always have some load on them, as they would be in a PC, they needed a resistor load if no computer board load was present for stability. Frequently the resistor choice changes the output voltage some. Not to just turn them on.

Last edited by Dave H; 10-30-2015 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:54 PM   #2449
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How does a PC or server motherboard send a negative voltage to the power supply, before it is turned on? Where does that power come from?

I thought the PC and server power supplies were designed to always have some load on them, as they would be in a PC or server, they needed a resistor load if no computer board load was present for stability. Frequently the resistor choice changes the output voltage some. Not to just turn them on.
Honestly I can't tell you. I see what you mean and have thought about it before, but I read years back on which wires to cross and the two that you also cross to trick the PSU to stay on once the switch is turned on and maintain a small load within it's self.
Upon further looking into the latest totorials, it seems 99% of them are using the resistor, but there are a few I have found where they are bypassing them to as long as there is a small load kept on the PSU, by having something like a charger just simply hooked up to it. I have never just left mine on without it already being hooked up to something anyhow, so I guess maybe that is why I have never had a problem.
I am not against the idea of the resistor, and maybe it is the smartest way to go about it, but I have just never personally ever needed one and all my units have continued to run without flaw for years to work my smaller chargers and such. If I can find that old thread I used from years back I will post it up.

If you look on this post> ATX PSU conversion There is a "Tips" section below step 13 explaining some of what I said above
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:38 PM   #2450
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Honestly I can't tell you. I see what you mean and have thought about it before, but I read years back on which wires to cross and the two that you also cross to trick the PSU to stay on once the switch is turned on and maintain a small load within it's self.
Upon further looking into the latest totorials, it seems 99% of them are using the resistor, but there are a few I have found where they are bypassing them to as long as there is a small load kept on the PSU, by having something like a charger just simply hooked up to it. I have never just left mine on without it already being hooked up to something anyhow, so I guess maybe that is why I have never had a problem.
I am not against the idea of the resistor, and maybe it is the smartest way to go about it, but I have just never personally ever needed one and all my units have continued to run without flaw for years to work my smaller chargers and such. If I can find that old thread I used from years back I will post it up.

If you look on this post> ATX PSU conversion There is a "Tips" section below step 13 explaining some of what I said above
PC ATX supplies vary greatly, many need a minimum load on the 5V rail which a typical RC charger does not supply. Some won't even hold up to the on/off load transition of RC charging.

Which is one of the major reasons that server supplies have become so popular. They are almost always more robust and made for hot swapping, much better for our uses except for lowish voltage. Note my earlier post did not distinguish between PC and server very well, it's an important difference.

Of course we are getting off the thread subject, myself included. Anyone who wants to continue this discussion lets please move to an appropriate thread. Back to the SCT410.3 here I hope.
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:50 PM   #2451
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I thought this was a Tekno 410.3 thread?
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:16 PM   #2452
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Dave moved it back on topic with his last statement.
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:29 PM   #2453
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I thought this was a Tekno 410.3 thread?
Still is. But if you, nor anyone else is adding anything to the chassis at hand I don't personally see why things conversed about within the topic shouldn't hold a little merit of value. I am glad this isn't like a political debate of over the top correctness all the time.

Anyhow on that note, I have heard from some people that there has been some small shock 12-13mm conversions going on for indoor and such. Some have made claims it works better for such tighter tracks and reduces CG and over all weight. Anyone have any personal experience with doing this mod? And if so, whats the find?
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:15 AM   #2454
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Still is. But if you, nor anyone else is adding anything to the chassis at hand I don't personally see why things conversed about within the topic shouldn't hold a little merit of value. I am glad this isn't like a political debate of over the top correctness all the time.

Anyhow on that note, I have heard from some people that there has been some small shock 12-13mm conversions going on for indoor and such. Some have made claims it works better for such tighter tracks and reduces CG and over all weight. Anyone have any personal experience with doing this mod? And if so, whats the find?
On the old truck a couple people had put the front shock tower on the back and a second set of front shocks. They seemed to have success, but not any better than normal, and not on the newer truck. I haven't heard of smaller shocks on the SCT410.3 at all, but there's nothing preventing small bore shocks like what you seem to be talking about if they're the same length.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:16 AM   #2455
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The suspension is designed to work with 16mm Tekno shocks, so I wouldn't think any other option would be better. But to each their own. Anything is worth a try, but I wouldn't spend $160 on 12mm shocks to put on my Tekno that weighs 7.5lbs
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:34 AM   #2456
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The suspension is designed to work with 16mm Tekno shocks, so I wouldn't think any other option would be better. But to each their own. Anything is worth a try, but I wouldn't spend $160 on 12mm shocks to put on my Tekno that weighs 7.5lbs
That being said, Losi is having great success with smaller shocks on the scte.
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Old 10-31-2015, 05:48 PM   #2457
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That being said, Losi is having great success with smaller shocks on the scte.
A Losi rep was who made the statement. Said the Tekno was better with the smaller shocks installed and how he knew several people doing it with great results. Said the sort of tracks SC trucks typically run on didn't need large bores and it hindered the chassis with higher CG and added over all weight with no real benefit over the loss. I was told this as I was in the middle of what turned into a heated debate over wanting to upscale the SCTE shocks to 8th scale bore like the Tekno has for more internal volume to work with. The reaction from several was the same as poring gas on a fire Especially when I suggested that the shocks could be inverted to negate high CG. Of course doing so would send the shock body weight to the outside of the arm, which becomes un-sprung weight.
But one rep stated how un-sprung weight wasn't necessarily a bad thing.
I understand how people would assume an inverted shock body sounds crazy, but no one has really stated why it wouldn't work, or even work well past opinions and the old "it's been tried before". Which I personally doubt was tried "right".
To be tried like it should be, would require a spec made top cap and A arms to get correct counter sink and clearance.
Haha, I know this is going to start backlash once again
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:27 PM   #2458
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smh

It has been done before. Google upside down rc shocks. I know its surprising that someone else thought of it first.

We had this conversation what 2 months ago? My response was try it and let us know how it works. I guess 2 months isn't enough time for the massive engineering involved.
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:40 PM   #2459
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You have a hard time comprehending don't you?
I didn't say it wasn't thought of before or hasn't been done. I said there has never been any spec parts made to better the process of intention as far as I have found. If so, find it, post it. I'll be waiting right here.
And no, two months is not enough for purpose building anything out of injection molded plastics and custom CNC parts when you don't have the machines at hand.
In the mean time I have been building things and am about to release a part that has widely gained popularity. What have you done in your time to better anything for the hobby?
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Old 10-31-2015, 07:28 PM   #2460
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Ridiculous....knock it off!
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