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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-24-2015, 09:02 PM   #2266
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I ran my Tekno for the first time a week ago.... WoooHooo what a blast.

Not sure why people are having problems? Stock set-up worked ok, rear end was a little loose. The truck would turn on a dime.. big difference from scte. I had add some steering expo on my radio to tame the beast.

Jumped just great, I know just to keep a little throttle going due to the nature of a the short course. No issues with ride height. I built my shocks with the vented style and kept about 15mm of shaft out as recommended.

I installed pink springs f/r and the 6x1.5 pistons this week. I am looking forward to racing tomorrow night and see how it handles. The pink springs are keeping my ride height up a mm or two. As noted I expect them to break in and work just fine.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:02 PM   #2267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
It's has nothing to do with what pros are doing. You try things, and if you like it.... You keep it. If you don't like it, you try something else. I started out running the 6x1.5 pistons with emulsion, and was running 35/25 at first. Then I started going heavier. I went up to 35/32.5. Then 37.5/35. Then I tried swapping the heavier oil into the rear, and went to 35/37.5 and really like it. This weekend I will be running 40/40 and see how it feels. If it sucks I will try 37.5/40 next. It's all about trial & error.

Every driver, every track, every set up is different. It's all about your personal preferences. The best thing I've noticed with the heavier rear oil is the slower rebound. The ass end stays planted, doesn't kick up, and it stays very level in the air. Even over sharp-faced jumps and kickers, and even braking bumps... The rear end stays down and it hooks up great.
Not wanting a to offend, but rather for sake of good debated conversation,
I understand what your saying, but I can't really go in full faith with an idea of throwing out what the fastest racers have been doing and "are still doing" for years on practically every chassis to exist either, regardless of who likes what.
And trust me, I as much as anyone likes to bend the rules to test a theory, but sometimes proven methodology along with "a W is a W" seems to be the default and obvious reason of why one would stay within a given parameter.

By what the product is from your claims yielded from the method you are using, couldn't it be argued that you'd get the same results 'only better by eliminating anti-squat, running a softer spring and limiting droop? I can't agree with your statement at all about wanting to reduce rebound. That is what is known to plant the tires (in this case the rear end), not the other way around. The faster you can get the wheels back in the dirt, the faster you can regain traction.
Hence the entire reason two stage piston research continues to progress.
A rigid suspension sort of defeats the purpose of long arm articulation intended for off road environments and just sounds counter intuitive.
I feel like your confusing rebound with spring unloading, due to either on throttle anti-squat effect, or simply from having to heavy of springs and not enough pack.

I would almost barter a bet with you that if you ran same front to rear two stage pistons with tighter pack and lighter oil to the rear, took all the anti-squat away, limited your droop and softened your springs further, you'd get the same feel with even better over all handling.

From what I have come to realize from my testing things with the SCTE, the difference from running light oil with small hole pistons, vs heavy oil with large hole pistons seems to be what limits your initial range of motion within the first few mm or so at the start of compression and rebound. Not really changing things a lot from a full motion aspect besides how pack rates are effected after landing off of jumps.
I think of it sort like a way to fine tune how fast or slow initial response is engaged. On flat ground running, if I'm a bit bouncy because of ruts I'll go up on viscosity and down on piston hole slightly.
Of course this effect is also determined by tire foam density and un-sprung weight variance.

Last edited by Josh L; 09-24-2015 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:03 PM   #2268
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Forgot to note that I have increased my oil along with the spring change.
30r / 35f....
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Old 09-24-2015, 10:44 PM   #2269
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Originally Posted by Aswild View Post
Hey lowes when u say one on top an one on btm then what do u mean, one under the nut an one on the bottom of piston? An do u think this will be good for street,desert, blown out track basher set up ,I'm running pinks all@ 30f/35b an it still slaps the bottom ,front is stiff rear is soft ,thanks





Condition mentioned above i would run....
6 holes/1.4mm with 30wt front/rear
Springs...Orange/front
....Green/rear
Ride height:::26mm fr/rr
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Old 09-24-2015, 11:31 PM   #2270
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Out of curiosity, why will it break if you don't run the sandwiched washers? Your the first I have heard say this. Is it a defect of product IYO? Or is there something about the Tekno shaft that is causing the issue?
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:08 AM   #2271
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Out of curiosity, why will it break if you don't run the sandwiched washers? Your the first I have heard say this. Is it a defect of product IYO? Or is there something about the Tekno shaft that is causing the issue?
First time i only put one on the top,nothing on the bottom and i broke two !!
I guess too much pack(force) under compression.
I message VRP and he told me they need to be two washers for top and bottom !!
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:14 AM   #2272
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
First time i only put one on the top,nothing on the bottom and i broke two !!
I guess too much pack(force) under compression.
I message VRP and he told me they need to be two washers for top and bottom !!
Interesting they told you this, yet still only offer one washer per piston.
I suppose the bottom would have the most force put against it during forced compression, so maybe they figure the top side is ok without it?
Appreciate the info none the less. I would have ended up breaking mine if I hadn't heard about it from your post.
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Old 09-25-2015, 02:05 AM   #2273
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Hey look! New sway bars and finally the shock pliers!
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Last edited by Hoese37; 09-25-2015 at 06:16 AM.
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Old 09-25-2015, 02:59 AM   #2274
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
Hey look! New sway bars and finally the shock pliers!
Those shock pliers are sweet!
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Old 09-25-2015, 08:15 AM   #2275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Interesting they told you this, yet still only offer one washer per piston.
I suppose the bottom would have the most force put against it during forced compression, so maybe they figure the top side is ok without it?
Appreciate the info none the less. I would have ended up breaking mine if I hadn't heard about it from your post.
The impression I got was the he thought the Tekno has one washer per piston in stock form. I didn't take his offer to replace the two broken ones because I feel that it was common sense and it my fault...I know better.
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Old 09-25-2015, 10:18 AM   #2276
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
Hey look! New sway bars and finally the shock pliers!
YES! Been waiting on those for a while now. And yes, I already ordered them.
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Old 09-25-2015, 11:44 AM   #2277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowspark View Post
I ran my Tekno for the first time a week ago.... WoooHooo what a blast.

Not sure why people are having problems? Stock set-up worked ok, rear end was a little loose. The truck would turn on a dime.. big difference from scte. I had add some steering expo on my radio to tame the beast.

Jumped just great, I know just to keep a little throttle going due to the nature of a the short course. No issues with ride height. I built my shocks with the vented style and kept about 15mm of shaft out as recommended.

I installed pink springs f/r and the 6x1.5 pistons this week. I am looking forward to racing tomorrow night and see how it handles. The pink springs are keeping my ride height up a mm or two. As noted I expect them to break in and work just fine.
t

That's exactly what I did. Rear end was a little loose. Took out some anti squat and added 1 degree rear toe and its on rails now. Love it.
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:08 PM   #2278
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I want to make a general comment on suspension after reading some of the recent posts.

I've seen a lot of discussion, and some argument, as to what makes the suspension setup best. While this is a noble goal, everybody has different driving styles and tracks, which most people think they understand, but don't always really believe. I'll give a couple brief examples to illustrate, and try to explain.

The first example is one that I've had with several local racers in various places. They are hooked on the "softer suspension works better, as the suspension can do the work" line. While they're not incorrect, this has tradeoffs. Some of them LIKE those advantages (more consistent on rough, more forgiving if you roll a wheel up on a pipe or berm, etc) more than they dislike the disadvantages (slower side to side chicane type turns from letting the car roll before it digs in and turns, more likely to traction roll, needing lower ride heights to make it not roll as badly, not handling whoops and big kick/bad faced jumps as well, more abusive on missed downsides or flat landings).

I've seen people run kit setup with 1 or 2 small tweaks and LOVE it. I wasn't one of those people. I run a MUCH stiffer setup than most anybody else, and do quite well with it. I choose the opposite set of tradeoffs. I've been running stock pistons with 37.5 front and 35 rear Losi oil and Green front Yellow rear springs. It is VERY important to note though, that the shock mounting locations, both on tower and arm, aren't generally the same for the two styles of springs and damping setup. I'm also typically on smoother tracks (some low and some high traction). One size does not fit all.


Now I will give an example of the differences in driving style, and how that also affects things we're talking about. I had the opportunity to do a test and tune day with Lutz after the Nationals. We both tried various things, and tried each other's trucks. He didn't like mine and thought it couldn't turn and couldn't turn close to the same lap times as I did with my truck. I didn't like his and thought it couldn't put any power down without looping the rear end, and I couldn't make a lap on the track without at least 3 crashes. But, he could make a couple sections of the track with my vehicle every time that he didn't do as consistently with his, and I could do some things with his that I couldn't with mine. Here's the secret, it is all driving style. I late brake and turn into the corner, powering out mostly straight. He brakes into the corner and powers around it, letting the power rotate the car more. This is why I like a vastly different setup from Lutz, and why no 1 spring/piston/oil combination is a silver bullet for everybody.

Unlike some other brands, the Tekno will tune great to either driving style, so while it is AWESOME that we help each other out with what has worked for us, and AWESOME that we help suggest directions to go based on a described variance from desired handling, it is not true to say that somebody else's setup is wrong if they like what it has done for them.

Please carry on with the helpful and friendly thread and being the awesome folks that you all are!
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Old 09-25-2015, 01:15 PM   #2279
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Well said and I agree.
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Old 09-25-2015, 02:11 PM   #2280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
I want to make a general comment on suspension after reading some of the recent posts.

I've seen a lot of discussion, and some argument, as to what makes the suspension setup best. While this is a noble goal, everybody has different driving styles and tracks, which most people think they understand, but don't always really believe. I'll give a couple brief examples to illustrate, and try to explain.

The first example is one that I've had with several local racers in various places. They are hooked on the "softer suspension works better, as the suspension can do the work" line. While they're not incorrect, this has tradeoffs. Some of them LIKE those advantages (more consistent on rough, more forgiving if you roll a wheel up on a pipe or berm, etc) more than they dislike the disadvantages (slower side to side chicane type turns from letting the car roll before it digs in and turns, more likely to traction roll, needing lower ride heights to make it not roll as badly, not handling whoops and big kick/bad faced jumps as well, more abusive on missed downsides or flat landings).

I've seen people run kit setup with 1 or 2 small tweaks and LOVE it. I wasn't one of those people. I run a MUCH stiffer setup than most anybody else, and do quite well with it. I choose the opposite set of tradeoffs. I've been running stock pistons with 37.5 front and 35 rear Losi oil and Green front Yellow rear springs. It is VERY important to note though, that the shock mounting locations, both on tower and arm, aren't generally the same for the two styles of springs and damping setup. I'm also typically on smoother tracks (some low and some high traction). One size does not fit all.


Now I will give an example of the differences in driving style, and how that also affects things we're talking about. I had the opportunity to do a test and tune day with Lutz after the Nationals. We both tried various things, and tried each other's trucks. He didn't like mine and thought it couldn't turn and couldn't turn close to the same lap times as I did with my truck. I didn't like his and thought it couldn't put any power down without looping the rear end, and I couldn't make a lap on the track without at least 3 crashes. But, he could make a couple sections of the track with my vehicle every time that he didn't do as consistently with his, and I could do some things with his that I couldn't with mine. Here's the secret, it is all driving style. I late brake and turn into the corner, powering out mostly straight. He brakes into the corner and powers around it, letting the power rotate the car more. This is why I like a vastly different setup from Lutz, and why no 1 spring/piston/oil combination is a silver bullet for everybody.

Unlike some other brands, the Tekno will tune great to either driving style, so while it is AWESOME that we help each other out with what has worked for us, and AWESOME that we help suggest directions to go based on a described variance from desired handling, it is not true to say that somebody else's setup is wrong if they like what it has done for them.

Please carry on with the helpful and friendly thread and being the awesome folks that you all are!
Truth. There is a Mugen guy here who has his MBX7R set up to the point where no one can seem to drive it consistently, except for him. Still does very well both locally and regionally.
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