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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-21-2015, 02:15 PM   #2236
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Forgot to mention that I was running 8 hole delrin pistons because that was what I had in my box. With 450f and 350r oils I'll try higher oils with weaker springs and see what happens. I also have some csi blues in my box I'd like to try.
And yes it was a crazy handful to drive.
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Old 09-21-2015, 02:25 PM   #2237
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Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
Thanks for the help I do realize that 30mm is way too high for the ride height. I cannot get any lower in the front. I'm going to try to turn the rod ends in some more but I don't expect to really gain much.
I was just trying different combination to see if I could eliminate the nose down.
You'll be surprise how much lower the car will be when you turn back one round on the rod end. also do you build them emulsion style(no rebound) or bladder ??
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Old 09-21-2015, 03:09 PM   #2238
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Built with the bladders. I'll make the changes and report back after racing this weekend.
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Old 09-21-2015, 03:10 PM   #2239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
Forgot to mention that I was running 8 hole delrin pistons because that was what I had in my box. With 450f and 350r oils I'll try higher oils with weaker springs and see what happens. I also have some csi blues in my box I'd like to try.
And yes it was a crazy handful to drive.
Per Teknorc's recommendation earlier in this thread put this setup in and run it. I've ran it outdoors on a blown-out dirt track and on a clay track with no changes and it was pretty dialed. I haven't ran the 4 hole pistons but I did run 6x1.6 with this setup

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf

On the ride height issue you might make sure the upper shock mount nut on the shock side isn't all the way tightened down, I've seen it hold the shock both up and down in the stroke if the shock can't move freely. Also check to make sure the grub screws in the sway bar pivots aren't to tight causing it to act more like a torsion bar than a sway bar.

Last edited by Tijuana_Taxi; 09-21-2015 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 09-21-2015, 03:53 PM   #2240
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
I believe the nose dive issues are from front springs being too soft and rear being too stiff. Try yellow front and orange rear and slightly thicker oil all around.
You are right. There are a number of things that can affect it. My suspension was working very well but still had nose dive issues. Someone on here suggested reducing anti squat and it did wonders for my truck.
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Old 09-21-2015, 04:58 PM   #2241
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Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
Thanks for the help I do realize that 30mm is way too high for the ride height. I cannot get any lower in the front. I'm going to try to turn the rod ends in some more but I don't expect to really gain much.
I was just trying different combination to see if I could eliminate the nose down.
I had to bottom out my rod ends and shave the shock collars very thin to get ride height down in front with Tekno springs.
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:58 PM   #2242
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Default Spindles and C-hubs

The other .3 cars have 4 set screws to hold the screws in place that connect the spindles to the c-hub and the c-hub to the a-arm. I wonder if it would hurt to drill holes in the same locations on the 410.3? I have a screw on the a-arm/c-hub that keeps backing out.
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:13 PM   #2243
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The springs will break in and settle with use. I wouldn't drill any holes, you'll weekend the a arm. Just put a dab of silicon RTV on the threads or use a tiny bit of threadlock.
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:16 PM   #2244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
You are right. There are a number of things that can affect it. My suspension was working very well but still had nose dive issues. Someone on here suggested reducing anti squat and it did wonders for my truck.
Also running heavier oil in the rear, try running 37.5 rear and 35 front it will help the nose down issue a ton.
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:36 PM   #2245
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OK, I am not sure where this post is in this thread but i'll put it here again because checking the shock measurements fixed my ride height problems with the stock springs with little to no run time on them.

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I posted this on the SC threads but forgot to put it here --

So I recently rebuilt my shocks and while doing that I came up with some more theories as to why getting the correct ride height can be difficult. I am simply going to list everything I can think of - and yes, we realize that some of our springs are a little longer than is optimal for some situations.

1. This is what I think might be getting a lot of people. Make sure your shock shaft is completely screwed into the shock end. If you measure your completed shocks the front should be no longer than 104.75mm and the rear no longer than 120.75mm. That's eye to eye measurement. From the bottom of the shock guide to the top of the shock end should be 30.25mm in the front and 38.25mm in the rear. The way I like to check the depth without calipers is by continuing to tighten the shock end in until the ball no longer spins freely than back it off about a quarter turn or until it's free again.

2. Make sure you're measuring from the flat part of the chassis in the front, not the kick-up part.

3. The less rebound you build your shocks with the lower you can get your ride height.

4. This has been stated already but it bears repeating - all springs need some use to settle. The more you run your springs (up to a point of course) the lower your ride height can be.

5. Make sure that the spring perch is under the shock boot. Our old shock boots used to go through the perch, that is not the case with the new ones.

6. If you try all of those and still have problems, try shaving the plastic collars down, that's good for ~2mm.

That's all I can think of right now, if anyone else has any tips or ideas, please post them up.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:06 PM   #2246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backyard RC View Post
Here's a couple of videos of my 410.3 testing out some track adjustments.

The first one is in slo mo

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


The second one has no slo mo

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
What shell is that? Wouldn't mind getting one to play with lol
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:26 PM   #2247
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Also running heavier oil in the rear, try running 37.5 rear and 35 front it will help the nose down issue a ton.
I've heard of people doing that. Since I changed the anti squat I've had no issues. I'm extremely happy with how my truck is set up. The only thing that will hold it back is the driver. Lol
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:37 AM   #2248
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If you build your shocks wrong, and leave a shit ton of pressure inside without bleeding them properly, then yes..
That could contribute to a high ride height.
You MUST have the battery installed and body ON when measuring ride height.

I built 2 kits so far. They both Sat high in front at first. The springs will settle after a few days and a few runs. Most people ditch the green fronts anyway at first and go to Pink or Black... Most people also ditch the black Rears and go to Green.

Either way... Springs settle. I am running Yellow Rears, Green Fronts at the moment. And I can get 25mm easy if I wanted. Because my springs are broken in.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:09 PM   #2249
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For the guys running shorter springs on their sct410 to get a low ride height. What brand of springs are you using? How long are they?
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:42 PM   #2250
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You don't need shorter springs. The Tekno ones are fine for any ride height from 24-30
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