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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-20-2015, 10:07 AM   #2221
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Here's a couple of videos of my 410.3 testing out some track adjustments.

The first one is in slo mo

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


The second one has no slo mo

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 09-20-2015, 11:43 AM   #2222
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696 View Post
What springs would you guys recommend, I'll be running a tight carpet track this winter. I read pink front and back was a petty versatile setup.
I'm running pink front and rear on medium bite dirt and they are working very well for me
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Old 09-20-2015, 05:24 PM   #2223
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new to the tekno game, picked up a 410 w/ a few upgrades, truck seems much better than my losi's were. looking forward to podium and tq's with this one!!

I am running the Baker setup with this truck. On our indoor hard pack that is a bit loose the kit springs/ 37.5 front shock fluid seems a bit soft. I may be looking to stiffen the front up just a little. what should i be looking at?
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Old 09-20-2015, 06:34 PM   #2224
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OK first outing was a hard lesson in short course. Racing on the high traction black play dough at the Ohio rc factory made me realize I got a lot to work on.
Tires felt great. Ended up with pink spring in front and reds in the rear. Can't get the ride height down under 30mm. Thinking about zip tying a couple coils together.
The nose dive in this class is the most confusing. Getting it figured out I just have to jump and keep around quarter throttle.
Had lots of fun though.
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Old 09-20-2015, 06:48 PM   #2225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
OK first outing was a hard lesson in short course. Racing on the high traction black play dough at the Ohio rc factory made me realize I got a lot to work on.
Tires felt great. Ended up with pink spring in front and reds in the rear. Can't get the ride height down under 30mm. Thinking about zip tying a couple coils together.
The nose dive in this class is the most confusing. Getting it figured out I just have to jump and keep around quarter throttle.
Had lots of fun though.
Take away rear anti squat. That will really help the nose dive issue.
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Old 09-20-2015, 06:54 PM   #2226
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Just have to break everything down for cleaing, oil changing and general inspection if you want to keep these things running. Front drive shaft/universals are shot. Good thing I have 2 weeks before my next race and an EB48.3 and ET48.3 to keep me going....
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Old 09-21-2015, 03:15 AM   #2227
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Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Just have to break everything down for cleaing, oil changing and general inspection if you want to keep these things running. Front drive shaft/universals are shot. Good thing I have 2 weeks before my next race and an EB48.3 and ET48.3 to keep me going....
I pull mine apart and switch the pin to a different hole to help with that, and keep them lubed of course.
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:13 AM   #2228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
OK first outing was a hard lesson in short course. Racing on the high traction black play dough at the Ohio rc factory made me realize I got a lot to work on.
Tires felt great. Ended up with pink spring in front and reds in the rear. Can't get the ride height down under 30mm. Thinking about zip tying a couple coils together.
The nose dive in this class is the most confusing. Getting it figured out I just have to jump and keep around quarter throttle.
Had lots of fun though.
What are you using for an ESC? Make sure you have no drag brake set and even add a little push to help keep the nose up.
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:58 AM   #2229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
OK first outing was a hard lesson in short course. Racing on the high traction black play dough at the Ohio rc factory made me realize I got a lot to work on.
Tires felt great. Ended up with pink spring in front and reds in the rear. Can't get the ride height down under 30mm. Thinking about zip tying a couple coils together.
The nose dive in this class is the most confusing. Getting it figured out I just have to jump and keep around quarter throttle.
Had lots of fun though.
I believe the nose dive issues are from front springs being too soft and rear being too stiff. Try yellow front and orange rear and slightly thicker oil all around.
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Weapon of choice : Airtronics M12
Home track : Coyote Hobbies,Ca

Last edited by Lowe's48; 09-21-2015 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:07 AM   #2230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny 13 View Post
new to the tekno game, picked up a 410 w/ a few upgrades, truck seems much better than my losi's were. looking forward to podium and tq's with this one!!

I am running the Baker setup with this truck. On our indoor hard pack that is a bit loose the kit springs/ 37.5 front shock fluid seems a bit soft. I may be looking to stiffen the front up just a little. what should i be looking at?
With the same shock oil package,try yellow front and orange rear springs. If you can, run the ride height at 26mm/fr,25mm/rr
The box stock pistons are more for bumpy,loose track condition so you'll have to stiffen them up for tracks with more traction.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:11 AM   #2231
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
I believe the nose dive issues is from rear springs being too soft. They bottom out on to of the jumps and kick up the rear end . Try stiffer springs with a little thicker oil.
Ya I think your correct Lowe, I was having some nose diving issues on bigger jumps. I installed rear pink springs and put heavier oil and the nose diving went away
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:05 PM   #2232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
OK first outing was a hard lesson in short course. Racing on the high traction black play dough at the Ohio rc factory made me realize I got a lot to work on.
Tires felt great. Ended up with pink spring in front and reds in the rear. Can't get the ride height down under 30mm. Thinking about zip tying a couple coils together.
The nose dive in this class is the most confusing. Getting it figured out I just have to jump and keep around quarter throttle.
Had lots of fun though.
The red springs in the rear are probably making it near impossible to drive. I'm running black in the rear (5 steps down from red), pink in the front. Ride height is 22/22. 30mm ride height is a little too high .
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:10 PM   #2233
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
I believe the nose dive issues are from rear springs being too soft. They bottom out on top of the jumps and kick up the rear end . Try stiffer springs with a little thicker oil.
Actually, it's rare that the rear of the chassis is slapping and kicking up. And springs can only do so much if the damping isn't correct. To help with nosing over go to a stiffer spring in front, lighter spring in the rear. Heavier oil all around. Less anti-squat for sure.

A stiffer rear spring is only going to toss it over the front quicker. Reduce rear droop. There are a lot of factors at play here. I posted some info a few pages ago about this topic.
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Old 09-21-2015, 01:59 PM   #2234
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Actually, it's rare that the rear of the chassis is slapping and kicking up. And springs can only do so much if the damping isn't correct. To help with nosing over go to a stiffer spring in front, lighter spring in the rear. Heavier oil all around. Less anti-squat for sure.

A stiffer rear spring is only going to toss it over the front quicker. Reduce rear droop. There are a lot of factors at play here. I posted some info a few pages ago about this topic.
Lol...i misread the whole thing !!
I thought he was running the pink in the rear !! You are correct mr Tekno...that's is a case of too soft in front and too stiff in rear....that causes too fast of a rebound in the rear.
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Old 09-21-2015, 02:10 PM   #2235
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Thanks for the help I do realize that 30mm is way too high for the ride height. I cannot get any lower in the front. I'm going to try to turn the rod ends in some more but I don't expect to really gain much.
I was just trying different combination to see if I could eliminate the nose down.
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