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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-25-2015, 02:44 AM   #2041
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
You two must just have gotten off on the wrong foot. Rcgod is one of the coolest, most chill dudes I've met in RC.
He might be in person. I'm not here to win votes. I use the forums to learn and voice my opinions on topics. If people don't agree, I'm fine with it.
But coming into a whole other thread and bringing past discussions up in attempt to belittle me is just asinine. I personally apologize to the entire thread for the disruptive nature of my last comment. But I just want it to stop.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:50 AM   #2042
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Default My car without enough brake force...

You can watch my car (the last, with white with green and orange colour) in the corner after the long straight in a former race event. I have been the seastar, pushing to hard and forgettig to add brake force (was on 55%).
Beside of that, car was great.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLGVlkRTWXo
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Last edited by FAO; 08-25-2015 at 03:54 AM. Reason: Wrong link
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Old 08-25-2015, 04:00 AM   #2043
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Default Weight distribution

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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Thats interesting you have a picture of that tekno with the ESC mounted to the rear. That is exactly where I mounted mine with my SCTE 2.0.
I had to make a plate to get the right clearance, but testing it seems to have given me better weight distribution and less wires all over the place.
Wires are longer for the motor and shorter for the battery, does not matter that much.
But think of a big can motor (+100g) additional, and at least 100g for controller + wires swapped from the left to the right side.

The LRP Flow fits in there perfectly and is not getting to hot with the fan mounted.
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:35 AM   #2044
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FAO, move to the top of that group by turning your power down, hitting your marks, and not crashing. What I saw from that video is very typical of this class: too much motor and not enough control. So many times at the club racing level we need to shoulder our way to the front during the first lap (leaving crashed vehicles in our wake) in order to win. If you saw that in 2wd buggy, drivers would be calling each other out and there would be black flags. Let's ALL make a conscious effort to take back our class and add back the civility that actually comes from good driving and fun racing!
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:13 AM   #2045
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For you guys with Spectrum radios, if your running with your AVC turned off... You don't know what your missing. I can't believe the HUGE difference in my driving with my new DX4C radio running the AVC. I have my percent settings very low.... Under 5% but even with the AVC on, and percentages both set very low, it still does enough to correct tiny mistakes in your driving. And on slick, dusty low traction outdoor tracks its a godsend. I've gone from getting 5th-6th place to 2nd place overnight just with the addition of AVC. It really is an amazing technology!
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:52 AM   #2046
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Barillms, do your fellow racers know you are running with AVC? At many tracks (most? all?) it's specifically against the rules. I know of an 11 year old at my local track that was boasting of being 2nd in his race one night, only to find out that he was running with AVC when the rest of us were struggling to find traction... He dropped back down to bottom 3rd of the pack next race when his dad was told it was against the rules and turned AVC off.

It's a great innovation to be able to apply traction control in an RC car... but its generally not allowed.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:11 AM   #2047
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Awesome. Bragging about cheating. Why don't you just hand the controller over to someone else and let them drive it and then take credit for it?
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:55 AM   #2048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawks View Post
Has anyone had success with the 17mm hex adapter TKR5571-17?

I have a heap of 1/8 buggy wheels that I want to use on my SCT410.3
Have not used it personally, although I was considering it. Then I read somewhere on here that they break easily.

There is a metal version, but it makes the truck buggy width (illegal for racing). If you're just a basher, that might be the way to go.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:53 PM   #2049
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I already knew what you where trying to do with your half wit questioning in the last post. Casper already warned us both to stop with the bickering in their thread, but you are determined to bate and undermine everyone in attempt to discredit anything I say or suggest in my personal quest of improving products and design theory, or now even when I try to help people. Who are you anyway? Are you someone that's supposed to be important? Have you actually invented anything or changed the way things are done in the RC industry? Are you a pro? Why would you spend your time arguing against my "inferior input" or anything I say if you know so much?
I would think you would simply ignore me.
But that's not the case with you. You are arrogant and will always have the last word, just as your forum handle suggest.
I have read a lot of the things you say, and agree that you have a decent knowledge of RC cars, but past that in comparison you'd get lost with your little man syndrome in a world of men where I stand. Now shu fly.
Josh my issue with you is you're dangerous. You have no practical knowledge of what you're talking about. You read forums and books and come here regurgitating the info with no idea whether it is true or not. It must be true if you read it on the internet, right?

I called you out on giving false info on the scte thread and you didn't like it and argued with me to defend your theories and book knowledge. I have seen more than a few guys like you come and go over the years. Come on the forum, act like you know everything and disappear in a few months. You're dangerous because you sound like you know what you're talking about, and a lot of guys will listen and follow. Just like you did with the spring frequency deal. Yet you admit you have never actually done it?

You have no crediability because you want to argue theories and when I say go out and try it and let us know how it works, you get offended. Why don't you be a productive member of the forum and gain some actual on track knowledge and share it? Try your theories and let us know how they work. Otherwise you're just a keyboard engineer that's leading those that don't know any better down garden path of bad setups, melted electronics and puffed batteries.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:43 PM   #2050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmkalt View Post
Have not used it personally, although I was considering it. Then I read somewhere on here that they break easily.

There is a metal version, but it makes the truck buggy width (illegal for racing). If you're just a basher, that might be the way to go.
i believe M2Cs keep legal width, as do my drilled out revo hexes.

i think i have an extra set of drilled out revo hexes if you're interested hawks, since i'm -1 tekno. you'll need to supply the superlight stubs (tkr5580) tho.
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Old 08-25-2015, 04:05 PM   #2051
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The bickering stops now. Back to SCT410.
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Old 08-25-2015, 04:07 PM   #2052
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The bickering stops now. Back to SCT410.
410.3
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Old 08-25-2015, 04:10 PM   #2053
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I said what I meant Hosey
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:20 PM   #2054
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Started a facebook page for the SCT410 owners out there. Would love to have any facebook tekno owners come and share what they have.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/SCT410
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Old 08-26-2015, 07:02 AM   #2055
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Originally Posted by Homer723 View Post
Awesome. Bragging about cheating. Why don't you just hand the controller over to someone else and let them drive it and then take credit for it?
It's not cheating and its 100% legal at my track. Mine is set on 1%. Anyway, I've raced at 5 local tracks and not one track has ever mentioned turning off AVC or not being able to use it. It's made for racing, that's the entire point of it. Most people at my track use Spectrum and most use AVC.

The car doesn't drive itself, you don't even notice the input. And it's definitely not traction control. Apparently you guys have no idea what your talking about.
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