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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-21-2015, 01:31 PM   #1996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Could anyone can give me a clarify the rear camber link because other set up book it says longer link it more stable and rear traction and hudy set up book and it says shorter rear camber link more stable and more rear traction.. I am confused my rear camber link is the shortest camber link outside tower hole#6 and inner rear hub and i feel had a good traction entering the corner but exiting the corner i got loose rear traction. Never try longer link yet.
Longer and/or higher link is more stable into a corner. If the rear end is coming around too quickly off throttle or in a sweeper, for example, or there is too much turn-in, go to a longer link. If that doesn't help enough, raise the link on the tower (lower the roll center). The flip side to a higher link is less on-power traction (more steering out of a corner).

A shorter/lower link will make the rear end very reactive and want to come around off power. You will gain traction/forward bite coming out of corners.

If you are a point and shoot driver who goes in hot, hits the brakes, turns and stabs the throttle, you will probably like a shorter link and/or a higher roll center (lower link). Some of this is track dependent.

To be able to drive a short and low link rear end, you have to be on the throttle all the way around the track. Even if it's really light throttle, that will keep the rear end planted pretty well. But if you let off to break or turn, that rear end will be hard to control.

If you are easy on the throttle and brakes and round the corners and drive out of them, try the longer link first. Only move the link up if you are still having issues with the rear end breaking loose off power.
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:51 PM   #1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Answers in red.
Matt, thank you. Very helpful.

I just reluctanly retired my original 410 after 2+ years. Ran awesome, it was just time for a new kit. I'm in the process this weekend of building my new truck, and I'm doing my best to translate my setup over so it drives as close as possible.
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:58 PM   #1998
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Longer and/or higher link is more stable into a corner. If the rear end is coming around too quickly off throttle or in a sweeper, for example, or there is too much turn-in, go to a longer link. If that doesn't help enough, raise the link on the tower (lower the roll center). The flip side to a higher link is less on-power traction (more steering out of a corner).

A shorter/lower link will make the rear end very reactive and want to come around off power. You will gain traction/forward bite coming out of corners.

If you are a point and shoot driver who goes in hot, hits the brakes, turns and stabs the throttle, you will probably like a shorter link and/or a higher roll center (lower link). Some of this is track dependent.

To be able to drive a short and low link rear end, you have to be on the throttle all the way around the track. Even if it's really light throttle, that will keep the rear end planted pretty well. But if you let off to break or turn, that rear end will be hard to control.

If you are easy on the throttle and brakes and round the corners and drive out of them, try the longer link first. Only move the link up if you are still having issues with the rear end breaking loose off power.

To be able to drive a short and low link rear end, you have to be on the throttle all the way around the track. Even if it's really light throttle, that will keep the rear end planted pretty well. But if you let off to break or turn, that rear end will be hard to control.


I had this situation it's hard to control if i let the throttle off exiting in the corner. Thanks for the input will try longer link
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:29 PM   #1999
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Increasing your front kickup can help with this too.
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:32 PM   #2000
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For anyone fighting ride height issues like I was and has try'd all the suggested fixes here is what I did. I had the alum shock collars on truck but switched out the front to the stock plastic collars. I used a mic and shaved 2mm off of them and reinstalled, can get like 24mm in front now with the Tekno 70mm front springs, just make sure you take material from the flat side of the collar not the side the spring rides on obviously, and make sure they are flat and even across with a mic so they sit flush against shock body and are even side to side.
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Old 08-21-2015, 03:37 PM   #2001
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Just follow the pills indicated in the setup sheet that was posted. Single dot down and center on the C block, single dot up and out on the D.
Just seemed to give it a ton of toe in??? I'm using the composite blocks, front stayed in kit setup position and I moved the d block to the up and out postion, I think I'm still confused, or am I right
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:08 PM   #2002
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Just seemed to give it a ton of toe in??? I'm using the composite blocks, front stayed in kit setup position and I moved the d block to the up and out postion, I think I'm still confused, or am I right
Correct. The setup has max toe in on the rear of the vehicle.
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:04 PM   #2003
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Correct. The setup has max toe in on the rear of the vehicle.
I'll be running it tomorow on an indoor med bite track,,I'll post my results
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:20 PM   #2004
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Okay so my build was going fairly smoothly until bag g which was the front end. First my camber link came with an unthreaded end, which tekno took care of immediately, i had a tracking number within 15 min of emailing them. I decided to put the other one together and the ball end with the flange (attaches to the shock tower) moves smoothly but the normal one binds. I assembled the other side and had the same problem. Is this there a special way to assemble these? I popped them in with small channel locks trying to keep them straight as they go in, when i take them back apart the cups look fine. And to top it off i go to put my one camber link in and the nut that holds it on the axle carrier starts spinning in place before the screw even came close to tightening. Has anyone else experienced these problems? Am i doing something something wrong, defective bag? I had no problems with the rear i did the day before.
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:30 PM   #2005
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Man don't tell me this, I just pulled out bag G and put it on the table to work in the morning before getting in bed a few minutes ago, that's gotta suck. At least they are fixing you up. On the other issues I'll chime in sometime tomorrow. Good luck!
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:00 PM   #2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Longer and/or higher link is more stable into a corner. If the rear end is coming around too quickly off throttle or in a sweeper, for example, or there is too much turn-in, go to a longer link. If that doesn't help enough, raise the link on the tower (lower the roll center). The flip side to a higher link is less on-power traction (more steering out of a corner).

A shorter/lower link will make the rear end very reactive and want to come around off power. You will gain traction/forward bite coming out of corners.

If you are a point and shoot driver who goes in hot, hits the brakes, turns and stabs the throttle, you will probably like a shorter link and/or a higher roll center (lower link). Some of this is track dependent.

To be able to drive a short and low link rear end, you have to be on the throttle all the way around the track. Even if it's really light throttle, that will keep the rear end planted pretty well. But if you let off to break or turn, that rear end will be hard to control.

If you are easy on the throttle and brakes and round the corners and drive out of them, try the longer link first. Only move the link up if you are still having issues with the rear end breaking loose off power.

Great stuff!!!

Good lesson, keep them coming, please.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:05 PM   #2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRoy9696 View Post
Okay so my build was going fairly smoothly until bag g which was the front end. First my camber link came with an unthreaded end, which tekno took care of immediately, i had a tracking number within 15 min of emailing them. I decided to put the other one together and the ball end with the flange (attaches to the shock tower) moves smoothly but the normal one binds. I assembled the other side and had the same problem. Is this there a special way to assemble these? I popped them in with small channel locks trying to keep them straight as they go in, when i take them back apart the cups look fine. And to top it off i go to put my one camber link in and the nut that holds it on the axle carrier starts spinning in place before the screw even came close to tightening. Has anyone else experienced these problems? Am i doing something something wrong, defective bag? I had no problems with the rear i did the day before.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob4607 View Post
Man don't tell me this, I just pulled out bag G and put it on the table to work in the morning before getting in bed a few minutes ago, that's gotta suck. At least they are fixing you up. On the other issues I'll chime in sometime tomorrow. Good luck!
Getting the links threaded was the only thing I didn't like about my build. They were tough to get started and tough to get all the way threaded. A little grease on the threads helps.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:34 PM   #2008
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Figured out how to break the SCT410.3... Turns out the TKR5161 A-block upgrade on the EB48.3 makes it a tougher vehicle than the SCT410.3... Looks like the TKR5161 is a great upgrade for the SCT, I'll be ordering one asap. Also, recorded a bunch of laps with the EB48.3 in really loose conditions.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:04 AM   #2009
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My 410.3 broke in exactly the same spot. Replaced with an alum A block. IMHO a flathead screw should not be used on the A block to secure it. There is not much meat on the top and bottom of the hole and when you tighten the flathead screw your actually putting the cone part of the hole under stress. It would have been much stronger with a plain hole and a button head screw. But that being said, I love this truck. It's so easy to go fast in it.

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Old 08-22-2015, 08:06 PM   #2010
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So I reduced the anti squat as recommended on hear to help with the nose down issue. Made a huge difference. My truck is dialed. Super happy with it.
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