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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-30-2015, 06:14 PM   #1756
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Where can I buy a carbon fiber center Diff top brace?? I keep seeing them, but don't know where to purchase one?

Xtreme Racing makes one. I can't post a link yet. AMAIN has them.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:11 PM   #1757
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Default Nose Diving - Solved

I've had my .3 for a couple months now and we've not been on speaking terms after the first few races. Using the stock set-up it was a nose diving SOB. Went to the track last night to practice and dedicated the entire night to working on a good set-up and in particular getting rid of the nose diving.

Our current layout has a rather big and long double on the back stretch. At the beginning of the night my truck would literally land on it's lid at the end of the jump. It was almost doing a complete forward flip. On the other smaller jumps it just wanted to land right on its nose. I tried a bunch of different changes aimed at keep the weight rear-ward as well as experimenting with the speed I approached the jump, when I got on the gas, or even backed off the throttle. Nothing made it better. I literally couldn't get around the track because I was on my lid off every jump.

The one change that seemed to make it a little better was adding as much anti squat as possible. Then it dawned on me, the rear of the truck must be hitting the face of the jump and kicking the rear end up over the front. I didn't have any heaver springs specifically for the SC truck. I was running green rear springs at the time. So I grabbed my truggy front pink springs and threw them on the back just to experiment. WOW, the truck jumps perfectly level! Lap after lap, the truck jumped flawlessly! The scary part is, the truck still made really good rear traction despite having crazy stiff springs on the rear. The truggy pink front springs have a rate of 4.8!

If you look at an SC specific spring chart, the heaviest spring they list is a Red spring with a rate of 2.93. So I'm not sure that spring would even be heavy enough to eliminate the nose diving. The buggy rear spring is the same as the SC truck, and the buggy specific spring chart actually goes up to a Purple spring with a rate of 3.37. I don't know the right spring yet, but I do know the issue is the truck being waaaaay too soft in the rear. I'm probably going to go right to that purple spring, but if I had to, I can still wheel this truck with the truggy front pink spring.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:28 PM   #1758
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How bout laying the rear shocks down like the front? I allways see setups with the rear shocks stood up.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:37 PM   #1759
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How bout laying the rear shocks down like the front? I allways see setups with the rear shocks stood up.
That was one of my first changes. Since I didn't have stiffer SC rear springs, I laid the shocks all the way down which stiffens the rear end a bit, but it just wasn't enough to keep the rear of the chassis from slamming the jump face.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:45 PM   #1760
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Yeah, alot of people are having this problem. I think it's bc of the black stock rear springs. It has to be.
I really think they should include different pistons & different springs with the kit.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:46 PM   #1761
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Hmmmm I may try thicker oil then I actually ordered stiffer springs but not that stiff lol. Mine bottoms out and bounces when is slaps but I was afraid of loosing traction on the small stuff
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:50 PM   #1762
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Hmmmm I may try thicker oil then I actually ordered stiffer springs but not that stiff lol. Mine bottoms out and bounces when is slaps but I was afraid of loosing traction on the small stuff
I dont think the thicker oil will help with the slap. Itll just slow down the action of the suspension. The spring rate is what needs addressed. I started out with 25 in the rear, but it was rebounding too fast and sending my ass end up over small humps before turns.

I'm running 30AE/32.5 Losi in the rear now, and 32.5AE/35 Losi in front and its pretty dialed with the 6x1.5 pistons. I'm running on a really blown out rough big outdoor track. On the smooth tracks it seems like the pros are running much heavier oil.

As far as rear springs, the stiffest I own are greens... And I run the collars down maybe 3/16" and its hooked. Traction-wise its great, and nose diving happens if I make a mistake. But with zero Drag Brake and my throttle trim adjusted properly, it rarely dives with a 17t pinion. I love this truck
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:51 PM   #1763
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Pink springs are actually 1 step softer than Green. Unless they are Losi or HB springs or something other than Tekno brand.
These were truggy front pink springs, they are way heavier than green SC springs.

http://s238.photobucket.com/user/sir...pring.jpg.html

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...ringChart2.jpg
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:55 PM   #1764
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Hmmmm I may try thicker oil then I actually ordered stiffer springs but not that stiff lol. Mine bottoms out and bounces when is slaps but I was afraid of loosing traction on the small stuff
Yeah, I thought to myself this may solve the nose diving, but will there be any rear traction. I was shocked how damn well the rear made traction with those springs. It defied logic, but I know I could race with that set-up and do very well
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:55 PM   #1765
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Yeah man, these things hook up great as long as you've got the right tire on. I was running Pink fronts, but it wasn't turning as fast as I wanted, it was pushing a bit. I'm sold on the Black Fronts & Green Rears for my track. Now I'm fine tuning oils.
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:59 PM   #1766
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Originally Posted by Wease View Post
I've had my .3 for a couple months now and we've not been on speaking terms after the first few races. Using the stock set-up it was a nose diving SOB. Went to the track last night to practice and dedicated the entire night to working on a good set-up and in particular getting rid of the nose diving.

Our current layout has a rather big and long double on the back stretch. At the beginning of the night my truck would literally land on it's lid at the end of the jump. It was almost doing a complete forward flip. On the other smaller jumps it just wanted to land right on its nose. I tried a bunch of different changes aimed at keep the weight rear-ward as well as experimenting with the speed I approached the jump, when I got on the gas, or even backed off the throttle. Nothing made it better. I literally couldn't get around the track because I was on my lid off every jump.

The one change that seemed to make it a little better was adding as much anti squat as possible. Then it dawned on me, the rear of the truck must be hitting the face of the jump and kicking the rear end up over the front. I didn't have any heaver springs specifically for the SC truck. I was running green rear springs at the time. So I grabbed my truggy front pink springs and threw them on the back just to experiment. WOW, the truck jumps perfectly level! Lap after lap, the truck jumped flawlessly! The scary part is, the truck still made really good rear traction despite having crazy stiff springs on the rear. The truggy pink front springs have a rate of 4.8!

If you look at an SC specific spring chart, the heaviest spring they list is a Red spring with a rate of 2.93. So I'm not sure that spring would even be heavy enough to eliminate the nose diving. The buggy rear spring is the same as the SC truck, and the buggy specific spring chart actually goes up to a Purple spring with a rate of 3.37. I don't know the right spring yet, but I do know the issue is the truck being waaaaay too soft in the rear. I'm probably going to go right to that purple spring, but if I had to, I can still wheel this truck with the truggy front pink spring.
you need to go back to regular springs and change your pistons.. you want more pack so it doesn't compress as quick and hit the face, not a stiff spring that won't let your suspension work. If you have 1.5's go to 1.3's or 1.2's in the rear. Then toy with oils a bit.
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:43 AM   #1767
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His truck is stock. So they're the 10 hole. Black rear springs are WAY too soft...
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:45 AM   #1768
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
you need to go back to regular springs and change your pistons.. you want more pack so it doesn't compress as quick and hit the face, not a stiff spring that won't let your suspension work. If you have 1.5's go to 1.3's or 1.2's in the rear. Then toy with oils a bit.
I agree that the truggy pink front spring is not going to end up being the final solution. Again, I only resorted to that because it was all I had in my parts box at the time. I simply wanted to prove my theory that the rear end of this truck is sprung waaay too soft and that the cause of the nose diving issue is the chassis slamming the face of the jump and kicking the rear of the truck over the nose.

However, the truck still worked extremely well with that spring. I know that sounds odd, but at no time during my experiment did I feel the truck was too loose in the rear. The EB48 rear spring is the same length as the SCT, so I am going to start with the purple rear spring (TKR6056) and work my way softer until I determine the softest spring that prevents the truck from nose diving. The purple rear spring has a rate of 3.37 which is considerably less than the truggy pink front of 4.8. This is why I'm planning on starting with the purple instead of just going up to the yellow, orange or red springs which are only marginally harder than the green I have on it now.

I also considered heavier oil to gain more pack. That may be part of the final solution as well, but in my opinion pack alone with different pistons and/or oil is not going to solve the issue using the stock springs or even a couple spring rates higher. The truck still needs a spring rate considerably higher than what it came with stock.
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:51 AM   #1769
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His truck is stock. So they're the 10 hole. Black rear springs are WAY too soft...
Actually, I was using 6 x 1.5 pistons with 500cst front and 400cst rear with Green rear springs. I switched to that piston/oil combo recently because that was close to what Lutz was running at the Roar Nats. Although he ran the Yellow rear spring which was one step heavier than the Green, but I didn't have anything heavier than the green spring in my box.
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:11 PM   #1770
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How bout laying the rear shocks down like the front? I allways see setups with the rear shocks stood up.
Standing the rear shocks up will make it feel more stiff, as you are compressing the springs in a more linear direction with the arm. Laying them down increases the leverage against the shock.
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