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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-26-2015, 09:12 PM   #1726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCore View Post
this surprisingly helped my setup a lot. i went from a 4000kva motor to a 4700kva motor and it suited my driving style much better and eliminated my nose diving issues.
Mine noses too. I think they all do. I finally got mine fairly dialed, and doing much better. I shaved about 4 seconds off my laps in the past 3 weeks. I'm not sure what causes the diving. Definitely make sure your Rear A Arm guards ARE NOT rubbing the wheel or tire under full droop. This will cause major nose dive. As far as a battery tray Mod, you'll run into issues where your battery rubs on your center Diff output... And you'll blow up your truck. Seriously, I wouldn't want a lipo rubbing anything. It'll go boom.
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Old 07-26-2015, 09:41 PM   #1727
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ROAR is sadly a huge PITA to deal with. The 0 offset doesn't rub due to the fact that the ribbing isn't as deep in the wheel.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:06 AM   #1728
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I'm sure this is true for some, my gearing is good. Its a issue that I believe I can fix with a setup change. I need to get the green springs back on the front and figure out how to get proper ride height with them on it hence my post earlier about shaving the collars down thin. I love the new truck and SL buggy, they are well built rigs and have steering like no other but honestly the springs that come in the kit and the ones from Tekno that you can buy do not work with the new towers/geometry, springs are too long. I have read all the "compress them before installing" and "they will settle in after a few runs". I try'd it all thinking I was missing something simple but it isn't me its the springs. We need shorter springs with the proper rates for the .3 and the SL IMO.
I'm running greens all around with 6x1.5 pistons and I'm able to get the proper ride height. I wasn't able to when I first built the kit, but once tje springs settled, it was good. Right now my fronts collars are all the way up, but it's at the stock ride height with battery installed. With the pinks up front, I actually had to drop the collars. Interesting that some springs won't settle. Wonder if Tekno would replace them.

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Old 07-27-2015, 10:56 AM   #1729
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Just finished building my SCT410



I'm really happy with the out come.
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:14 PM   #1730
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The 6x1.5 pistons, and removing the center & rear brace were two of the changes I made that helped the most. Well, that & going to different springs of course.
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:26 PM   #1731
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Originally Posted by Millsy97 View Post
Just finished building my SCT410



I'm really happy with the out come.
Nice, I had that same motor in a 4T, LOVED it but keep a eye on the little tiny screws that go in the side of the can by the end cap. I couldn't keep mine tight no matter what. Also I would recommend getting rid of the plastic servo arm soon. Have fun.
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Old 07-28-2015, 03:20 AM   #1732
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Nice, I had that same motor in a 4T, LOVED it but keep a eye on the little tiny screws that go in the side of the can by the end cap. I couldn't keep mine tight no matter what. Also I would recommend getting rid of the plastic servo arm soon. Have fun.
Thanks, I already have one on order. Are there any other upgrades that people recommend?
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:29 AM   #1733
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+1 on the Orion motor screws. Great motor otherwise, smooth and plenty of power.
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:30 AM   #1734
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Anybody running the Xerun 3656sd 4000 or 4700kv? If so, any thoughts - which kv to get and on how they perform? I have a RX8 Gen2 I'm going to pair it with.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:52 AM   #1735
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I had 4000 with ver1 and loved great motor now with the .3 i got 4700 and had to send in didn't hold together bad one maybe but and lots of power!!
now running 4500 smc love it great motor!!! If you want 4700 straight back form hobbywing..pm me get you great deal.
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:02 AM   #1736
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I had 4000 with ver1 and loved great motor now with the .3 i got 4700 and had to send in didn't hold together bad one maybe but and lots of power!!
now running 4500 smc love it great motor!!! If you want 4700 straight back form hobbywing..pm me get you great deal.
How would u compare the Hobbywing 4000 to the SMC 4500? I run indoors mostly.
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:01 PM   #1737
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Default Shock Pistons

See that the 4x1.8 pistons are available. Wondering how they work compared to the 6x1.5? I'm assumming more pack on the big jumps, faster thru the rough stuff. Anybody know?
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:06 PM   #1738
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the smc is pretty smooth but it has vent holes in can and outside might get a little dirty in there I only ran 2 days outide so far with smc so fa good..
I ran all last year outside on the 4000 hw no problems wasn't the fastest but never over heated and won with consistent easy to drive..
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:02 PM   #1739
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When would removing the center and rear chassis braces be effective?
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:06 PM   #1740
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When would removing the center and rear chassis braces be effective?
Lower grip surfaces where you need more rear traction.
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