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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-23-2015, 10:45 AM   #1666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cracing View Post
Are these flat or tapered pistons.
TKR6063 Shock Pistons (CNC, conical, 6×1.5, 10.6mm²)
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:48 AM   #1667
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Originally Posted by SixFeetDeep View Post
Matt,
Thank you very much for taking the time to both read my post and write me a personal reply. I sincerely appreciate it! Thank you for the info on the new .3 Differentials. I will adjust the fluids in my diffs in future with this knowledge in mind.
In regards to keeping the droop at 120mm for the rear, I am hoping you can help answer my question on the correct way to measure droop. Here is a portion of my statements and questions regarding how to measure the droop which I am hoping you can clear up:



I will absolutely will try increasing my ride height, and making the truck level (same ride height Front & Rear). On my old truck, I avoided raising the ride height to try and help the traction rolling problem I was having. But I believe this was a result of the suspension being so still that the suspension was not rolling when it entered a corner, the truck was merely tipping over, pivoting about the outer contact point of the outside tires. With this trucks suspension setup being drastically softer, I am hoping I will be able to get away with running a higher ride height that doesn't cause the truck to traction roll.

I have two more questions for you:
1) Do you have a piston / spring / oil setup you would recommend trying?
2) I have heard that some of the team Tekno drivers are running the tekno pistons upside down (with the cone pointing upward like an umbrella). This will obviously reduce the shocks overall pack, and slow down the rebound stroke... but I am not sure exactly what that is translating to handling wise on the track? Any insight on this setup change would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for any and all replies!
-Cameron
Hi Cameron,
You are very welcome. We appreciate questions like this as this is a new vehicle and many other customers will inquire about the same information.

You are measuring the droop properly. Basically the droop measurement we are using in the setup sheets is the total shock length measured from center of the shock stand off to center of the screw attaching the shock to the arm.

I do recommend looking at Ryan Lutz's latest setup from Nats. It was very good for a medium traction smooth track with very high speed sections.

I'm trying to understand why your truck is/was traction rolling. In my experience traction rolling is caused by too much weight transfer or by an outside wheel catching a rut and flipping violently or tires having too much traction.

Typically the first thing we do if there is an issue traction rolling or the opposite (sliding too much in a corner) is analyze the traction level and corner smoothness.

If traction is high we will go up on springs and sway bars to help keep the truck level in the corners and prevent traction rolling and excessively sitting on one corner of a vehicle. We did this on Ryan's Nats setup and it was much more consistent in the high speed sections and it exited the tight sections much more straight. If traction is high and we are using a tire that produces too much traction the vehicle will be very hard to control, overly sensitive to steering and throttle input and will be very affected by ruts and bumps on the track.

If the truck is pushing (front tires turned and car still goes straight) or the rear end wants to slide we will first look at tires. A car pushing and loose is an indication we are not using the proper tires. We will then adjust sway bars and springs to let the truck roll more. To a certain degree roll can add traction but too much roll will cause traction rolling and make the vehicle unpredictable in corners.

We typically run negative 2 degrees camber front and rear. On occasion we go to negative 3 rear camber if the surface is rough in the corners. This will affect forward grip but it will make the rear of the vehicle much less prone to catching a rut and flipping violently.

One last thing is to take in mind that SC in general is more prone to body roll and traction rolling due to the higher center of gravity caused by the body. Make sure your body is as low as possible without excessively rubbing the tires. Also make sure the body is as light as it can and still be strong enough to survive crashing.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:58 AM   #1668
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Thanks for the information. Matt
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:02 AM   #1669
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I'm building a SCT410.3 for my kid to mess with and for some limited track time for me at OCRC (practice only, not worried about class rules). I've decided to try out the 4S route and go with a Tekin Pro 4HD 1850KV motor, HW SCT-Pro ESC, and low-profile 4S battery. What pinion gear do you guys recommend I start with? I used to run a 15 tooth pinion with a HW3656 4000KV 4 pole motor 2S setup on a previous SCT410 I had. I don't know what to start with.

-Al
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:09 AM   #1670
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FYI I read on another forum someone breaking "dogbones" as he described, it, they are up to like 7 I am thinking on the sct410. They run in sandy conditions, no issues with tekno stuff on there slashes, just on there sct410s.

Let them know to contact tekno about it, if any of you are on that other "short course" forum, maybe see if can help?
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:17 PM   #1671
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Default shock pistons?????????????

what shock pistons is every one running.
I see that the nt48.3 is running 4 hole 1.8 , 8 hole 1.3.
These shock pistons are all over the place.
I make the 8 hole 1.3 flat and tapered for the Associated rc8.3
6 hole 1.3 flat for the mugen
all of the pistons are the same size as the tekno
So the question is what does every one want to try?
if you want a 4 hole 1.8 I can make them.
flat or tapered
lmk
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Old 07-23-2015, 02:40 PM   #1672
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there no nt48.3 out yet as they don't know when it coming out
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:26 PM   #1673
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Dan,

I am new to this forum and somewhat new to RC racing. I have a the 410.3 and love it. It seems like the rear end of this setup is really soft. Are the jumps really small at this track? doesn't seem like you would have enough pack in the rear to land jumps without bottoming out pretty hard. I guy at my track is running the 6x1.5 pistons with 45 wt oil and orange springs and thinks it is still soft.

The tracking I run at is outdoors, low to medium grip red dirt, a few big doubles and somewhat bumpy and rutted. My rear end bounces pretty bad on the bumpy straits with green springs, stock pistons and 30 wt oil. I bought the 6 x 1.5 pistons for front and rear but trying to decide on springs and oil. I was thinking yellow or orange springs with 40 weight for rear to give me enough pack for the big jumps but will that be too stiff to soak up the bumps on the straits? I have also almost eliminated anti squat because i herd you don't want too much on a bumpy track.

Please help me figure out a good setup (mainly springs and oil and shock location on tower) for my outdoor track. Any advise on the front end for springs and oil would be greatly appreciated also. I plan on running 6x1.5 pistons front and rear

Sorry for the long post, just trying to get my sct410.3 better equipped for racing.

Thank you in advance!!
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:35 PM   #1674
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[QUOTE=MattDub;14106463]Most of our setups are for indoor but we are starting to get some outdoor setups too. Our site has a few, the link below might be a good starting point. Since the truck is new, our setups are limited. Check our site every week or so as we are trying to post new setups from our drivers and customers on a regular basis.

Dan,

I am new to this forum and somewhat new to RC racing. I have a the 410.3 and love it. It seems like the rear end of this setup is really soft. Are the jumps really small at this track? doesn't seem like you would have enough pack in the rear to land jumps without bottoming out pretty hard. I guy at my track is running the 6x1.5 pistons with 45 wt oil and orange springs and thinks it is still soft.

The tracking I run at is outdoors, low to medium grip red dirt, a few big doubles and somewhat bumpy and rutted. My rear end bounces pretty bad on the bumpy straits with green springs, stock pistons and 30 wt oil. I bought the 6 x 1.5 pistons for front and rear but trying to decide on springs and oil. I was thinking yellow or orange springs with 40 weight for rear to give me enough pack for the big jumps but will that be too stiff to soak up the bumps on the straits? I have also almost eliminated anti squat because i herd you don't want too much on a bumpy track.

Please help me figure out a good setup (mainly springs and oil and shock location on tower) for my outdoor track. Any advise on the front end for springs and oil would be greatly appreciated also. I plan on running 6x1.5 pistons front and rear

Sorry for the long post, just trying to get my sct410.3 better equipped for racing.

Thank you in advance!!
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Old 07-23-2015, 05:05 PM   #1675
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I am going to try 6x 1.5 pistons with 37.5 and Yellow Springs in the front and 32.5 with Yellow Springs in the rear and differentials set at 775. I race on an outdoor hard packed clay track in dry conditions.
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:05 PM   #1676
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I am going to try 6x 1.5 pistons with 37.5 and Yellow Springs in the front and 32.5 with Yellow Springs in the rear and differentials set at 775. I race on an outdoor hard packed clay track in dry conditions.
Do you have smaller jumps at your track where you don't need a lot of pack for landings? Is your track smooth or bumpy? it seems like most people use stiffer springs and heavier weight oil in the front. What is the purpose of going stiffer up front? Are you using the stock 2.6mm sway bar up front?

On Ryan Lutz setup sheet he is using 550 oil for the front and 450 for the back. Is this weight or CST because I know that CST and weight are not the same? I assume it is 55 wt and 45 wt?

Sorry for all of the questions, just trying to learn and get faster at my track
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:17 PM   #1677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
Do you have smaller jumps at your track where you don't need a lot of pack for landings? Is your track smooth or bumpy? it seems like most people use stiffer springs and heavier weight oil in the front. What is the purpose of going stiffer up front? Are you using the stock 2.6mm sway bar up front?

On Ryan Lutz setup sheet he is using 550 oil for the front and 450 for the back. Is this weight or CST because I know that CST and weight are not the same? I assume it is 55 wt and 45 wt?

Sorry for all of the questions, just trying to learn and get faster at my track
My Track is a smooth 1/8 scale outdoor track with large jumps much like roar Nationals Track
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:44 PM   #1678
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Ruffdog, I recommend taking a look at the setups on our site. They will give you an idea of changes to make to better suit your track conditions.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...eets/SCT410_3/
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:11 PM   #1679
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Thanks for the link Matt. I looked at all of those. I guess I will try some thinner oils with my 6x1.5 pistons and see how it runs. Do you know how PT racing oil converts to associated? Ryan Lutz is running 550 front and 450 rear. From the charts I have seen that equates to about 35 wt front and 30 wt rear for associated oil. Does that sound right?

Thank you!!!
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:28 PM   #1680
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550 cst is about 40(L) - 42.5(A) wt, 450 cst is about 35(L) - 37.5(A).
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