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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-22-2015, 10:25 AM   #1651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SixFeetDeep View Post
Hello All, This is my first post on the new .3 Thread. Just wanted to post my two cents worth on the new truck, and hopefully receive some input as well.

Questions:
a) Differentials: Has anyone else noticed or felt like the differentials are much freer feeling than the weight of the oil that was placed in them?

b) Droop: I am measuring the rear droop (measured center-center of the mount holes used on the truck) to be ~120mm, and it already looks like extension of the rear arms have been significantly shortened.

c) Nose Diving: What shock/spring settings would you recommend (or other setup changes) to help prevent this nose-dive issue.
All in all, I am very happy and very impressed with the new Tekno SCT410.3.

Thanks for any and all replies, and I apologize for the long message!
-Cameron
Hi Cameron, Let me see if I can help answer your questions.

A. Differentials. This is an area we spent considerable time updating and improving tolerances to help reduce friction, reduce maintenance and improve lifespan. The recess for the red o-ring has been slightly enlarged on both the diff case as well as the ring/spur gear to allow the outdrive to spin with much less resistance. This will help reduce heat caused by o-ring friction and helps the diffs stay much more consistent between rebuilds. We have also updated the large bevel gear. It is now precision ground and has been made slightly taller. This helps with the mesh and wear characteristics of the diffs.

These changes make the diffs last much longer between fluid replacement as well as improve overall diff life as there is less internal friction. In our testing it appears that the diffs feel about 1k to 2k lighter than the diffs from the non .3 diffs. To compensate we have been going 1k to 2k higher to get the fluid resistance to feel the same as the diffs from the previous cars.

B. We have noticed the SCT410.3 can be sensitive to rear droop changes. We recommend keeping the rear droop at 120 or slightly more if necessary. The front droop can be adjusted to the track conditions but we recommend leaving the rear droop at 120.

C. Nose diving is typically caused by the rear of the chassis slapping the jump face on take off. As you mentioned, this was experienced with the v1 truck as well. The chassis hits hard then bounces up violently and causes the rear of the truck to continue an upward motion as it leaves the jump.

Typically jumps that don't have a smooth take off or have an abrupt transition from horizontal track surface to the angled jump face (I call these "kicker" jumps) are more prone to making the truck jump nose down. These type of jumps are prevalent on indoor tracks, especially tracks that cater to stock 2wd buggy.

Looking at your setup, I see the rear ride height might need to be raised. Low rear ride height combined with a light rear spring and oil combination will cause the rear of the truck to hit hard on takeoff. I recommend raising the rear ride height so it is equal to the front. Then going to heavier oil and spring if it continues to have jumping issues.

Please let me know what you find and what changes help with the jumping issue. Hope this helps explain what you are seeing and thank you for using our products.
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:37 AM   #1652
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Awesome post, Matt.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:08 AM   #1653
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good info.

Matt, when you stiffen up the rear to combat nose down on the V1, it was cause traction issues.

How in general have you been restoring the same level of traction that was there prior with the softer setup?

Also, any info on those new pistons the eb48.3 is using as far as using on the sct?
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:41 AM   #1654
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
good info.

Matt, when you stiffen up the rear to combat nose down on the V1, it was cause traction issues.

How in general have you been restoring the same level of traction that was there prior with the softer setup?

Also, any info on those new pistons the eb48.3 is using as far as using on the sct?
Cain, as with all setup changes, there is a give and take. Its nearly impossible to make a change and not have it affect something else. As you mentioned going heavier in rear oil and spring will change the rear traction level. My suggestion is to not go so heavy that it drastically affects the rear traction. Moving the battery to the rear position will help put more weight toward the rear of the truck and help smooth out a stiffer rear suspension. If even more rear traction is needed we have been extending the rear camber link by drilling additional holes next to the inside row of camber link positions on the tower.

Also rear traction can be added by making the front of the truck less aggressive. So going up on oil and spring in the front can help put traction back to the rear.

We have tested with the 4.8 positions in the SCT and I believe they have been good. I don't have the specifics on the oil used but I will try and get more info.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:50 AM   #1655
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sounds good. Is there a setup out there for the new truck or in the works that you would say is the best place to start for 1/8 sized rough truly loose dirt tracks? Something where say a Proline Caliber in M4 compound works.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:31 PM   #1656
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sounds good. Is there a setup out there for the new truck or in the works that you would say is the best place to start for 1/8 sized rough truly loose dirt tracks? Something where say a Proline Caliber in M4 compound works.
Most of our setups are for indoor but we are starting to get some outdoor setups too. Our site has a few, the link below might be a good starting point. Since the truck is new, our setups are limited. Check our site every week or so as we are trying to post new setups from our drivers and customers on a regular basis.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...se_lowbite.pdf
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:47 PM   #1657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Most of our setups are for indoor but we are starting to get some outdoor setups too. Our site has a few, the link below might be a good starting point. Since the truck is new, our setups are limited. Check our site every week or so as we are trying to post new setups from our drivers and customers on a regular basis.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...se_lowbite.pdf
Thanks. I'll keep this in the note book and if 4x4 SCT picks up again will have it on the ready if I get a SCT410.3 .

Pretty much the conditions I described were the only place I never felt truly confident in the vehicle versus say the ET48 which was like on rails.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:34 PM   #1658
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Good info up there^^^, Thanks Matt.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:29 PM   #1659
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They come trimmed, but not drilled.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:09 PM   #1660
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They come trimmed, but not drilled.
thanks a lot
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:10 PM   #1661
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speaking of setups
anyone tried to make it more rally like on dirt track or race on on road surfaces (the kind used for touring cars)
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:34 PM   #1662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SixFeetDeep View Post
Hello All, This is my first post on the new .3 Thread. Just wanted to post my two cents worth on the new truck, and hopefully receive some input as well.

Questions:
a) Differentials: Has anyone else noticed or felt like the differentials are much freer feeling than the weight of the oil that was placed in them?

b) Droop: I am measuring the rear droop (measured center-center of the mount holes used on the truck) to be ~120mm, and it already looks like extension of the rear arms have been significantly shortened.

c) Nose Diving: What shock/spring settings would you recommend (or other setup changes) to help prevent this nose-dive issue.
All in all, I am very happy and very impressed with the new Tekno SCT410.3.

Thanks for any and all replies, and I apologize for the long message!
-Cameron
Hi Cameron, Let me see if I can help answer your questions.

A. Differentials. This is an area we spent considerable time updating and improving tolerances to help reduce friction, reduce maintenance and improve lifespan. The recess for the red o-ring has been slightly enlarged on both the diff case as well as the ring/spur gear to allow the outdrive to spin with much less resistance. This will help reduce heat caused by o-ring friction and helps the diffs stay much more consistent between rebuilds. We have also updated the large bevel gear. It is now precision ground and has been made slightly taller. This helps with the mesh and wear characteristics of the diffs.

These changes make the diffs last much longer between fluid replacement as well as improve overall diff life as there is less internal friction. In our testing it appears that the diffs feel about 1k to 2k lighter than the diffs from the non .3 diffs. To compensate we have been going 1k to 2k higher to get the fluid resistance to feel the same as the diffs from the previous cars.

B. We have noticed the SCT410.3 can be sensitive to rear droop changes. We recommend keeping the rear droop at 120 or slightly more if necessary. The front droop can be adjusted to the track conditions but we recommend leaving the rear droop at 120.

C. Nose diving is typically caused by the rear of the chassis slapping the jump face on take off. As you mentioned, this was experienced with the v1 truck as well. The chassis hits hard then bounces up violently and causes the rear of the truck to continue an upward motion as it leaves the jump.

Typically jumps that don't have a smooth take off or have an abrupt transition from horizontal track surface to the angled jump face (I call these "kicker" jumps) are more prone to making the truck jump nose down. These type of jumps are prevalent on indoor tracks, especially tracks that cater to stock 2wd buggy.

Looking at your setup, I see the rear ride height might need to be raised. Low rear ride height combined with a light rear spring and oil combination will cause the rear of the truck to hit hard on takeoff. I recommend raising the rear ride height so it is equal to the front. Then going to heavier oil and spring if it continues to have jumping issues.

Please let me know what you find and what changes help with the jumping issue. Hope this helps explain what you are seeing and thank you for using our products.
Matt,
Thank you very much for taking the time to both read my post and write me a personal reply. I sincerely appreciate it! Thank you for the info on the new .3 Differentials. I will adjust the fluids in my diffs in future with this knowledge in mind.
In regards to keeping the droop at 120mm for the rear, I am hoping you can help answer my question on the correct way to measure droop. Here is a portion of my statements and questions regarding how to measure the droop which I am hoping you can clear up:

Quote:
Originally Posted by SixFeetDeep View Post
b) Droop: If I am not mistaken, I believe there are essentially two droop measurements: one is the shock droop when measure with the shock body off of the truck, and the other is the droop of the A-Arm when mounted on the truck. Which droop value is the kit (or the set-up sheets) referring too? For most cases, whichever of these two measurements is the smallest will end up being the limiting factor in the trucks actual droop value, as one prevents the other from extending all the way. What is the proper way to measure droop? Measuring the droop of the shock while off the truck (which is relatively simple and yields consistent results), or measuring the droop of the A-arm after the shock has been mounted (which is much trickier to get an accurate measurement)? First off, if you are measuring center of mount hole to center of shock eyelet, the droop value WILL change depending on which mount holes you are measuring from... To me, this does not make sense to record a set-up value in this way, as if the shock can extend well past the droop of the A-Arm, the “Measured” droop value on the truck can change depending on which mount holes you measure from.
Example: Let’s say the shock measures 110mm from center of eyelet on shock cap to center of eyelet on the shock shaft rod end when off the truck. On the truck, the droop screws are limiting the travel of the A-Arms such that the droop measurement 105mm when measuring from the center of the mount hole on tower to center of mount hole on arm when mounted on the inner-tower hole (#4) & inner-arm hole; whereas, if my shock mount locations were the outer hole on the tower (#1) & the inner-arm mount hole locations, the droop now measures 108mm center-center. In actuality, the droop of the truck HAS NOT CHANGED, as it is being controlled by the droop screw which is limiting the arms downward travel.
In this Example, what would be the correct droop measurement? The original shock extension of 110mm (which it is never extended to when mounted on the truck), when measuring center-to-center from the inner-tower location (105mm), or when measuring from the outer tower location (108mm)? Or is the correct droop measurement performed another way altogether?
I will absolutely will try increasing my ride height, and making the truck level (same ride height Front & Rear). On my old truck, I avoided raising the ride height to try and help the traction rolling problem I was having. But I believe this was a result of the suspension being so still that the suspension was not rolling when it entered a corner, the truck was merely tipping over, pivoting about the outer contact point of the outside tires. With this trucks suspension setup being drastically softer, I am hoping I will be able to get away with running a higher ride height that doesn't cause the truck to traction roll.

I have two more questions for you:
1) Do you have a piston / spring / oil setup you would recommend trying?
2) I have heard that some of the team Tekno drivers are running the tekno pistons upside down (with the cone pointing upward like an umbrella). This will obviously reduce the shocks overall pack, and slow down the rebound stroke... but I am not sure exactly what that is translating to handling wise on the track? Any insight on this setup change would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for any and all replies!
-Cameron
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:53 AM   #1663
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Goto lutzinator.com for his 2015 roar national setup. 6x1.5 pistons, 55/45 oil, yellow springs frt and rear.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:26 AM   #1664
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Default 6 HOLE 1.5 PISTONS

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Goto lutzinator.com for his 2015 roar national setup. 6x1.5 pistons, 55/45 oil, yellow springs frt and rear.
Are these flat or tapered pistons.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:38 AM   #1665
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Are these flat or tapered pistons.
I'm assuming tapered, but not sure.
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