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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-13-2015, 12:15 PM   #1591
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This weekend my rear differential failed. Two planet gears broke. I am quited sure that i can blame it on the pit crew as i rebuilt the diff right before the race. Has anyone ever had an issue with the diff on the SCT410 or am i just a little bit clumsy?
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Old 07-13-2015, 12:44 PM   #1592
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Originally Posted by Uhudler View Post
This weekend my rear differential failed. Two planet gears broke. I am quited sure that i can blame it on the pit crew as i rebuilt the diff right before the race. Has anyone ever had an issue with the diff on the SCT410 or am i just a little bit clumsy?
My diffs on both 410.3 and Eb48sl have been solid, Something must have been off after the rebuild I would assume.
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:42 PM   #1593
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
Is there a front bumper that will stick out in front of the body like slash 4x4? I really like the look and durability of having the bumper out in front of the body.
In my experience having the bumper out in front of the body just breaks the body quicker.

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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I always solder my motor directly to the esc. Anybody use bullets between motor and esc? Just wondering how well it works? Saw this setup this wkend and thought that would make changing out motor and/or esc easy.
I don't recommend bullets on the motor of a truck like this because of the amp draw the motors make. Bullets wear out, and you'll find when they are by cooking your motor.
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Old 07-14-2015, 04:44 AM   #1594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I always solder my motor directly to the esc. Anybody use bullets between motor and esc? Just wondering how well it works? Saw this setup this wkend and thought that would make changing out motor and/or esc easy.
I do so. Beginning with the LRP iX8 controller, i soldered bullet connectors to the motors´ wires. The controller uses bullets all around. Then i used a Tenshock motor with the wires directly coming out of the motor´ housing. So the bullets stayed. Later i used the Tekin RX8 gen II and soldered connectors to small wire parts. Until now, there were no problems with the connection, never noticed overheating or dissoldering. I protected the connection with shrink tube and tied them to a chassis point to eliminate vibrations. I always use connectors without springs, if they don´t have enough pressure, i fill them with a short part of silicone wire shield inside.
I´m testing a lot of different ESC/motor setups, so this worked best for me.
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:03 PM   #1595
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Default TBR front bumper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I think T-Bone Racing's bumper may stick out past the body but I'm not sure. The stock bumper was designed to not go past the front of the body. When trucks that have the bumper in front of the body take a big hit the body often flexes up and over the bumper which then puts stress on the body mounts and the body.
The T-Bone Racing´s Bumper raches about 35mm more to the front than the original Tekno one, but the front end is 10mm lower. You may correct that with a heat gun and some patience.
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Old 07-15-2015, 11:47 AM   #1596
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Default sct410.3 vs. eb48.3 shock towers?

So are the shock towers interchangeable between the 2 still and are the eb48.3 towers stamped or cnc? Thanx
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Old 07-15-2015, 12:05 PM   #1597
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So are the shock towers interchangeable between the 2 still and are the eb48.3 towers stamped or cnc? Thanx
Very doubtful the buggy uses the rear shocks on the front now and the truck towers are shorter than the previous version.
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Old 07-15-2015, 03:31 PM   #1598
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I contacted tekno and asked the same question. Won't work!
I did buy the carbon tower for the rear and it's really thick. Hopefully it's stong also lol
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Old 07-15-2015, 03:50 PM   #1599
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Ok thanx guys
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Old 07-15-2015, 04:07 PM   #1600
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[QUOTE=qstorm777;14086523]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
I wish gopro's would zoom in. I have a couple of videos, but it's hard to see my car when it's on the other side of the track in the video.
You can do a 5.4mm lens conversion and that will make the gopro more like a standard aspect camera without the wide angle fish eye and edge distortion.

Sorta defeats the purpose of a gopro IMO, but it does work well. A lot of the drone guys are doing this for better filming shots.
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:05 AM   #1601
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[QUOTE=Josh L;14096791]
Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post

You can do a 5.4mm lens conversion and that will make the gopro more like a standard aspect camera without the wide angle fish eye and edge distortion.

Sorta defeats the purpose of a gopro IMO, but it does work well. A lot of the drone guys are doing this for better filming shots.
Thanks. Probably would help me see my car far away. I didn't realize I could change the lens.
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Old 07-16-2015, 05:02 PM   #1602
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So I was setting my droop today and my front is 105mm with the truck on a stand suspension uncompressed, but the droop screws aren't even close to touching the chassis. Is this correct or have I done something wrong? I had to adjust the rear to get it to the box settings
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:51 PM   #1603
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Originally Posted by mxturd View Post
So I was setting my droop today and my front is 105mm with the truck on a stand suspension uncompressed, but the droop screws aren't even close to touching the chassis. Is this correct or have I done something wrong? I had to adjust the rear to get it to the box settings
What droop are you trying to get to? The manual says 102mm droop in the shock building section.
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:20 AM   #1604
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Default Droop

All I am seeing is 105mm for recommended front droop
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:27 AM   #1605
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Originally Posted by mxturd View Post
All I am seeing is 105mm for recommended front droop
If you take your shocks off, do the droop screws touch the chassis? And also, approx. how long are your shocks fully extended measuring from center of the top and bottom mount holes when off the truck?
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