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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-04-2015, 08:47 AM   #1501
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Me personally, I would love to see a lot of the clubs go to 3S. It would be easier on the battery, motor and esc. That being said, I wonder how many people will be satisfied with running at 40 to 45 mph and not stressing the system. Right now, my 410.3 is geared to be faster than my buggy. Only way I can compete. Wonder why there is a consensus to run buggy on 1900-2100kv motors, but everyone tries to push the SCT to the max. My SCT is geared for 45 and thats plenty. If I could run it on 3S at 45, I would love it until that 50mph SCT whoops my tail...lol. Anyway, I think 45/46 mph is that sweet spot for SCT. I would love to be able to run it at 3S. Maybe the batteries would last for more than 1.5 years.
Your getting 45 on 2s? What motor and gearing? I must be doing something wrong lol I'm running 45 on 4s and still getting hot. Just plying on the street with lots of starts and stops and full throttle. But still my truck would melt on 2s geared for 45
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:35 AM   #1502
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Default 17mm hex on sct410.3

Can I put 17mm hexes and axles from eb48 on my sct410.3 and use de racing 17mm short course wheels and still be standard width. Want to be able to run 1/8 buggy wheel and de trinidad 17 mm short wheels thanks Ron My time is off posted this at 1:30 not 10:30 how can I change it

Last edited by SLASHERR; 07-04-2015 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 07-04-2015, 12:00 PM   #1503
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Your getting 45 on 2s? What motor and gearing? I must be doing something wrong lol I'm running 45 on 4s and still getting hot. Just plying on the street with lots of starts and stops and full throttle. But still my truck would melt on 2s geared for 45
Lol...that's calculated based on gearing. Tekin pro4hd 4300kv with 17/18 tooth pinion. About to try lrp dynamic 10l 4700kv with 15/16 tooth.

Not saying my calcs are right, but I believe they are.
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Old 07-04-2015, 12:31 PM   #1504
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Lol...that's calculated based on gearing. Tekin pro4hd 4300kv with 17/18 tooth pinion. About to try lrp dynamic 10l 4700kv with 15/16 tooth.

Not saying my calcs are right, but I believe they are.
How does that hd run temp wise. I'm thinking of getting the 3000kv for 3s. I absolutely my castle 2400 but in this truck it needs 4s to wake it up with the low kv. I'm my slash 4x4's it's perfect on 3s. I think the diffs are geared allot lower in the teknos
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Old 07-04-2015, 02:20 PM   #1505
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How does that hd run temp wise. I'm thinking of getting the 3000kv for 3s. I absolutely my castle 2400 but in this truck it needs 4s to wake it up with the low kv. I'm my slash 4x4's it's perfect on 3s. I think the diffs are geared allot lower in the teknos
For a 5 min race, 85-90 degf outside, my motor finishes at around 160. My esc finishes around 150 according to the tekin data log.

The hd 3000kv on 3S would be a beast speed wise...lol.

Last edited by qstorm777; 07-04-2015 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 07-04-2015, 03:47 PM   #1506
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Can I put 17mm hexes and axles from eb48 on my sct410.3 and use de racing 17mm short course wheels and still be standard width. Want to be able to run 1/8 buggy wheel and de trinidad 17 mm short wheels thanks Ron My time is off posted this at 1:30 not 10:30 how can I change it
contact M2C and confirm there 17mm hexes work on the new vehicle. If they do, use those and you should be legal.
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Old 07-04-2015, 04:03 PM   #1507
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Can one of you Tekno guys upload more ".3" set up sheets to the website please? There's gotta be more than 3 set up sheets available....
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Old 07-04-2015, 04:23 PM   #1508
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Why not just grab one of the setups and start tuning? I rarely look at setup sheets for any of my rides anymore. There are a bunch of us on here that would be more than happy to trade tuning knowledge/ideas on here.
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Old 07-04-2015, 06:56 PM   #1509
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I've just taken my new SCT410.3 to the track and it's very good, but I have one minor issue, when it jumps, a lot of times it seems to throw the ass end up so hard that sometimes I can't even compensate with throttle. Anyone else have this same experience? Any tips on how to adjust my setup to help give it a more neutral launch? My truck setup is very close to stock with 35wt front, 30wt rear, 5/5/3 diff oil and stock camber/toe/anti-squat/etc. The track I run on is extremely loose, so hopefully none of the changes I need to make will affect handling as the truck is running like it's on rails right now, really nice.

Thanks!
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:08 PM   #1510
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Why not just grab one of the setups and start tuning? I rarely look at setup sheets for any of my rides anymore. There are a bunch of us on here that would be more than happy to trade tuning knowledge/ideas on here.
Its just nice to know what set ups the pros are running, and have a reference. I've been experimenting nonstop since day 1.
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:12 PM   #1511
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo View Post
I've just taken my new SCT410.3 to the track and it's very good, but I have one minor issue, when it jumps, a lot of times it seems to throw the ass end up so hard that sometimes I can't even compensate with throttle. Anyone else have this same experience? Any tips on how to adjust my setup to help give it a more neutral launch? My truck setup is very close to stock with 35wt front, 30wt rear, 5/5/3 diff oil and stock camber/toe/anti-squat/etc. The track I run on is extremely loose, so hopefully none of the changes I need to make will affect handling as the truck is running like it's on rails right now, really nice.

Thanks!
Yes, I have this problem too. With how soft the rear end is box stock... You wouldn't think that would be a problem. On short & steep faced jumps, I have BAD nose dive issues. The higher it throws my truck, the worse it nosedives.

It happens so fast, I don't even have time to react with throttle..
And when I do save it, I have to hold it completely pinned mid air and it STILL barely lands. Normal, & small jumps its fine. Just high peaky ones I hate.

I changed out all 4 pistons, and also went up to 30wt oil in the rear from 25. Hoping this slows down the rebound and will stop the nosediving.

Make sure your wheels aren't rubbing inside. Or if you have on mud guards on the rear A Arms, make sure they aren't hitting your wheels. This will cause your drivetrain to stop rotating & cause nosediving. Also, make sure your drag brake is OFF and your ABS is off too. And try adjusting your throttle trim forward some to keep the tires rolling mid-air. One more thing, if your pinion is meshed too tight to your spur, it'll put unnecessary drag onto the drivetrain which can also cause unwanted nosediving.
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Last edited by Barillms; 07-04-2015 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:50 PM   #1512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo View Post
I've just taken my new SCT410.3 to the track and it's very good, but I have one minor issue, when it jumps, a lot of times it seems to throw the ass end up so hard that sometimes I can't even compensate with throttle. Anyone else have this same experience? Any tips on how to adjust my setup to help give it a more neutral launch? My truck setup is very close to stock with 35wt front, 30wt rear, 5/5/3 diff oil and stock camber/toe/anti-squat/etc. The track I run on is extremely loose, so hopefully none of the changes I need to make will affect handling as the truck is running like it's on rails right now, really nice.

Thanks!
Have you played around with your approach to the jump? I had to change the way I hit certain jumps with the Tekno but only usually takes me a couple laps to figure out the best way to get it smooth, with that said though some of you guys may have more going on than a simple approach change as you guys are talking some violent kick up issues it seem's.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:16 PM   #1513
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Since were talking setups, I raced today and did the best ever and the truck felt great. Even let a Losi guy drive it and he liked it alot and was really fast on it. I'm still searching for a little more rear traction. I'm wondering if a 3000 rear weight may help over the 5000 I'm currently running. Here is mg set up.


Medina RC Raceway, hard packed and dusty. More technical with jumps and turns.
Proline Blockades work the best for me.
775 front to rear.
Black springs.
35 weight losi in front, 32.5 in rear.
Standard droop.
25mm front and rear ride.
-3 camber in front and rear.

Want a little more rear traction, i have more steering than I need.

Mark
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:26 PM   #1514
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Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Since were talking setups, I raced today and did the best ever and the truck felt great. Even let a Losi guy drive it and he liked it alot and was really fast on it. I'm still searching for a little more rear traction. I'm wondering if a 3000 rear weight may help over the 5000 I'm currently running. Here is mg set up.


Medina RC Raceway, hard packed and dusty. More technical with jumps and turns.
Proline Blockades work the best for me.
775 front to rear.
Black springs.
35 weight losi in front, 32.5 in rear.
Standard droop.
25mm front and rear ride.
-3 camber in front and rear.

Want a little more rear traction, i have more steering than I need.




Mark

Yes put the 3000 in it will slow down the diff to make better traction
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:49 PM   #1515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Since were talking setups, I raced today and did the best ever and the truck felt great. Even let a Losi guy drive it and he liked it alot and was really fast on it. I'm still searching for a little more rear traction. I'm wondering if a 3000 rear weight may help over the 5000 I'm currently running. Here is mg set up.


Medina RC Raceway, hard packed and dusty. More technical with jumps and turns.
Proline Blockades work the best for me.
775 front to rear.
Black springs.
35 weight losi in front, 32.5 in rear.
Standard droop.
25mm front and rear ride.
-3 camber in front and rear.

Want a little more rear traction, i have more steering than I need.

Mark
I usually remove or go lighter on the rear sway bar when I need more rear traction. Or go stiffer on the front sway bar to take away some steering bite
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