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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-03-2015, 11:58 AM   #1486
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
There is no BEST motor, all depends on a persons wants/needs/abilities. I run on a medium/large sized high bite indoor track most of the time and I see so MANY guys that can't even come close to handling the power they are trying to put down, its funny to watch them keep going to more powerful motors and cranking up the punch/current limiter etc. thinking they are gonna crush people now cause they are FAST! The 4300HD is a great motor but was too much for me personally, I actually prefer my Novak vented Ballistic 4.5T 550 2 pole on my track, zero boost but with a bunch of turbo timing in the ESC, smooth and controllable and faster then most down the straight, real easy on the battery and temps are good. I run a Orion R10.1 in my Tekno with the above motor, get alot of guys looking at my stuff and scratching there heads trying figure out how my little baby ESC and wimpy 2 pole out runs most of them. I would like to give a Hobbywing Xerun 4000KV some testing though, have try'd the 4700KV version and its a beast (too fast for me) but a serious battery hog, the 4000 may be the ticket though.
+1 on this, the best motor is the one that works best for you. I'm currently running the Thunder Power 4.5 550 2 pole motor and love it. It's super smooth across the whole power band and has plenty of low end and more than enough top. The other Matt at Tekno is running the Tekin Pro2 5100 kv motor for similar reasons. Danny is running the Pro4HD 4300. All of our trucks work well
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Old 07-03-2015, 01:07 PM   #1487
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It only takes a 320g battery to balance an rx8/4300 setup, so I can't see you needing more than 420g (and probably not even that much).

One quick and easy thing you can do without any special tools is load the battery compartment with the amount of weight you think you need and then pick up the truck with your pointer fingers hooked under the center of the front and rear shock towers. It should want to hang that way reasonably balanced, if it wants to fall it will fall to the heavier side.

You also might want to ask the eb48 guys, its layout is nearly identical to the sct410 and the electronics they run are the same weight as the ones you're looking at.
Thanks anr211, for the tip to look at the buggies for 4S battery weight, stupid that I didn't think of that before. (Given that I went for a 4S setup to easily add an EB48 buggy in the future). I see that Tekno advises a 600g battery to complete the EB48, and a 500g battery for the EB48.2, both with a Tekin Rx8 and 1/8 scale motor. My ESC (@110g) is heavier than an Rx8, but my motor (@265g) is lighter than a 1/8 scale motor.
The SCT410.3 is more like the EB48SL however, which is laid out for 2S and no 1/8 scale motor.
I read through the EB48SL thread and there are quite a few that do run 4S in their EB48SL. Most seem to go for the lightest pack that will still let them finish the race. I saw an SMC 5000mAh @539g, an unknown 3500mAh @410g, a Promatch @6500 605g, an Admiral 3600 @380g, an unknown 2200mAh @240g and the one that seems favorite: the SMC 3600 @334g. So basically everything from 240g to 605g is being used, with 334g packs getting good reviews.

Thanks also for the tip on quick and dirty weighing. When you remove the center screw in the shock towers, you can hang the car on a string, also giving a quick indication. Other options might be screwing a long screw in the lower front bumper center hole or a string around the rear diff coupler. Lower makes it more sensitive to dummy battery mass changes. I used the the big high center hole in the front bumper and a string through the rear shock tower buggy-body-mount hole, and measure the distance between the chassis and the floor. It is still quite inaccurate (mass changes of 50g do not create clear changes), but in this method it seems to need a 550g dummy battery weight to balance it this way.

Before I posted my question, I actually bought a set of 4 digital kitchen scales, but those appeared to contain random number generators instead of a measuring device, so I returned them.
What I did then to (try and) get a consistent reading on the scale was to tape a thumbtack on the bottom of the chassis, in the center between the wheels, tip pointing down. One in the rear and one in the front. For weighing a front wheel I would then balance the rear on the thumbtack tip, with one front wheel on a digital kitchen scale, and the other on a spacer block of the same height. This way the car would be level, and the effect of the hysteresis of the 4-wheel suspension is reduced. On 4 wheels, a difference in extension of the shocks influences the scale's reading, which would go unnoticed as I was only using a single scale. With one end of the car on a thumbtack underneath the chassis, a difference in extension between the remaining two wheels hardly shows in the scale. I removed the tires and rested the car on the flanges of the rims, so sideways friction was very low and did not influence the scale reading as much. It all seemed a good setup, but I kept getting different readings, and the four weight readings never quite added up to the total mass, or the added dummy battery weight…

I think I will go for an Orion battery and noticed that their biggest pack of 5000mAh does not even fit the battery tray without cutting it up. The biggest that will fit without problems is the Orion 4400mAh @500g. So unless anyone else has a brilliant idea, I will just get that one and see how it jumps. Probably the effect is not noticeable relative to other effects like shape of the ramp, angle of approach, throttle and steering angle, etc.

Thanks for all the invaluable information on this forum!
Cheers, RCRijder
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Old 07-03-2015, 01:12 PM   #1488
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The truck has plenty of power with a 2s system if your planning a 4s system you may want to seriously consider beefing up the drive train as tekno specifically designed the .3 to be very light and run 2s, there is no way the plastic spur and diffs will handle the power and torque of a 4s, i would consider 3s to be the maximum for the truckin its current form just my opinion based on the damage i have seen a 4s do to the stock drive train.
Thanks HSV427. When running the SCT410.3 on 4S, most people seem to fear the increased wear in the constant velocity joints as the major concern. Actually the plastic spur gears and all diff gears seem identical in the SCT410.3 and the EB48.2 (which of course was built for 4S). The outdrives, cross pins, diff couplers, etc are all different. I will keep an eye on them, some of them are easily upgradeable once they wear out. I already bought all electronics except the batteries, so there is no way back now
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:13 PM   #1489
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Originally Posted by RCRijder View Post
Thanks HSV427. When running the SCT410.3 on 4S, most people seem to fear the increased wear in the constant velocity joints as the major concern. Actually the plastic spur gears and all diff gears seem identical in the SCT410.3 and the EB48.2 (which of course was built for 4S). The outdrives, cross pins, diff couplers, etc are all different. I will keep an eye on them, some of them are easily upgradeable once they wear out. I already bought all electronics except the batteries, so there is no way back now
Cheers, RCRijder
You should be fine really. A lot of parts are included in the new EB48.3 kit.
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:05 PM   #1490
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I have no idea why anyone would want to run their truck on 4s. It's simply 100% unnecessary.
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:58 AM   #1491
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I have no idea why anyone would want to run their truck on 4s. It's simply 100% unnecessary.
Higher voltage setups run with lower amp draws: running cooler and longer doing the same work. A SCT410 with a 2000kv 550 motor and 3600 4S is going to be the same weight and speed as a 4000kv 550 with a 7200 2S... but it's going to run at a lower temperature, a bit longer... and can use cheaper (lower C) batteries.

The biggest reason not to run 4S, is because the racing world only made a tiny jump from 7.2v NiMH to 7.4v lipos. If ROAR allowed 4S in 1/10th SCT (or any other 1/10th class) you'd see a huge number of people convert overnight. The batteries, ESCs and motors are all already available: but the 1/10th SCT class is pinned to arguably inferior 2S systems because of rule 8.10.13.2.1 in an old PDF.

(On a semi-related note: I'm happy to see more and more bashers support 4S-6S out-of-the-box - we need a large number of bashers to be running 4S+ systems to drag the racing world kicking and screaming into the future )
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Old 07-04-2015, 02:02 AM   #1492
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Hello, I've just ordered my SCT410.3 from AMain as they have 50 dollars off then another 10% which is a massive saving compared to the UK shops. With the truck, hobbywing sct esc and 4 sets of wheels it was around £50 less than the UK price!

Before I start building it I was wondering whats the best way to build the shocks, I'll only be driving the car on AstroTurf as that's what most tracks are in the UK.

Are there any out the box upgrade that are a must?

I've seen some people run the mechanical break and clutch, what are the benefits of this and how the hell would I set that up?

I'm looking forward to getting this truck built and getting it on the track
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Old 07-04-2015, 04:42 AM   #1493
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I'm running 4s because I bash and play around at the local park with my son. I don't know how you guys are getting decent speed and power on 2s without overheating the motor. I just tried a hobbywing 3400 on 3s and is was 254 degrees after a pack. Geared for about 45 just running it in front of my house. 4s 2400 castle motor finishes up around 150-160,
2s has to be really stressful on electronics. Even my slash 4x4's don't like 2s unless you gear them for about 30.
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:26 AM   #1494
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For racing, you only need to run for about 10 minutes max. If you gear it correctly, you can easily make the 10 minutes and finish with temps in the 150-160 range. It's part of the challenge of racing. That being said, I completely agree with PetRock above. This class seems to have gone in two directions from the beginning with the small, lightweight SC10 4x4 and the heavier, converted 1/8 buggies. If we had all opted for SC10 4x4 type vehicles the 2S batteries probably would have been fine. 550 2 pole motors would have been more than enough too. But we didn't...we chose the heavier path and the batteries just don't seem to be enough. I'm tempted to try 3S in my son's truck with his HW 4000kV at the club level.
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Old 07-04-2015, 06:52 AM   #1495
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For racing, you only need to run for about 10 minutes max. If you gear it correctly, you can easily make the 10 minutes and finish with temps in the 150-160 range. It's part of the challenge of racing. That being said, I completely agree with PetRock above. This class seems to have gone in two directions from the beginning with the small, lightweight SC10 4x4 and the heavier, converted 1/8 buggies. If we had all opted for SC10 4x4 type vehicles the 2S batteries probably would have been fine. 550 2 pole motors would have been more than enough too. But we didn't...we chose the heavier path and the batteries just don't seem to be enough. I'm tempted to try 3S in my son's truck with his HW 4000kV at the club level.
Me personally, I would love to see a lot of the clubs go to 3S. It would be easier on the battery, motor and esc. That being said, I wonder how many people will be satisfied with running at 40 to 45 mph and not stressing the system. Right now, my 410.3 is geared to be faster than my buggy. Only way I can compete. Wonder why there is a consensus to run buggy on 1900-2100kv motors, but everyone tries to push the SCT to the max. My SCT is geared for 45 and thats plenty. If I could run it on 3S at 45, I would love it until that 50mph SCT whoops my tail...lol. Anyway, I think 45/46 mph is that sweet spot for SCT. I would love to be able to run it at 3S. Maybe the batteries would last for more than 1.5 years.
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Old 07-04-2015, 06:53 AM   #1496
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I have no idea why anyone would want to run their truck on 4s. It's simply 100% unnecessary.
One word, Efficiency. Using the proper motor for a 4s setup gives better runtimes, cooler temps, and the same overall power.
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:49 AM   #1497
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Default 4s setup

Since we are on the subject. Anyone have any reccomd rations for motor/esc combos under $225? Can size under 41mm in diameter? Thx
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:57 AM   #1498
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Since we are on the subject. Anyone have any reccomd rations for motor/esc combos under $225? Can size under 41mm in diameter? Thx
SkyRC Toro 4300KV ($63) and HobbyWing SCT Pro ($85). Spend the remaining $75 on tires and some practice day fees.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:03 AM   #1499
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Thx - meant for a 4s setup. Having challenges for can that can support 4s that will fot in my Tekno and basher (mostly). Has to be under 41mm to fit

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SkyRC Toro 4300KV ($63) and HobbyWing SCT Pro ($85). Spend the remaining $75 on tires and some practice day fees.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:05 AM   #1500
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Thx - meant for a 4s setup. Having challenges for can that can support 4s that will fot in my Tekno and basher (mostly). Has to be under 41mm to fit
Look on the same motor link I sent, and order the 1850kv instead. Keep the same ESC: both are rated for 4S.
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