knucklebusta

I ran this thing like 7 times and the front and rear diffs are burnt out. The middle of the diff pulley, both front and rear are toast. The bearings are melted in the plastic. Was this caused by the diffs being too tight? Or the slipper being too tight?

Also is it possible to just lock these diffs up so I don't have to go throught this again? I'm starting to thing this thing is a piece of garbage. I don't much like the design of the diff assemblies. Plus I'm an idiot and have no idea how to adjust the diffs or slipper. I tried what the book said about tightening and loosening the slipper by holding the wrench and rotating the tires. The slipper adjustment didn't move.

The only way the slipper adjustment moved is if I hold the spur gear and try to adjust it. But like I said I'm an idiot.

My main question is can I lock these diffs up so these don't burn out. Also is this common with this car? RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Kevin

SlobbaTech

The problem you have isn't common with this car but common with running the diffs way too loose, they slip, get hot, and melt the gear. So you will need to replace all of the damaged parts, gear, diff balls, diff rings, ball bearing in center of the gear for sure. Then go re-read the manual, manufacturers spend a lot of time and money making them as clear as they can but in case your is misplaced then build your diff, set the diff tension on tight side, put diff in the car, turn car on, put one of front and rear tires on a table or ground, give car 1/4 throttle for 20 seconds. Then check to see if the diff loosened up any/tires spin more easily, if they did then tighten diff a little and put opposite side tires on table and gas it for 20 more seconds, then do other side tires again, turn car off. Then check and re-set diff tension if need be right then and also through the first 4 packs with it.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

agreed here with above statement.

Make sure you always recheck your diffs. I usually go with them being on the tight side when bench setting them, as they loosen up when you actually drive the vehicle.

josh short

iTrader: (50)

you race at RCEXCITEMENT Todd, or Dan L. should be able to help you out

knucklebusta

Yeah, I don't race as of yet. I'm just getting back into this after a 10 year hiatis from nitro. I know those guys, they are super helpful. I'm in there just about every other day as I'm an idiot and I keep breaking crap. Todd doesn't seem to mind.

Kevin

knucklebusta

Cain, how do you like the MRC buggy? I was looking at the pro version. It appealed to me because of the shaft drive and I'm sure it uses gears in the diffs vs. a pulley system with ball bearings and whatnot. Is this correct? I like the pro kit with the carbon fiber parts and whatnot, but I'd rather have the aluminum body that the regular version comes with.

How do you like the car? Anything bad about it? I've heard that it only comes with bushings? Is that correct? Also I read that there were motor mount issues? But it did get a review that was good in one of the mags I read. I'm just looking for actual feedback from actual owners and you seem like you've used it a while.

Any help is appreciated.

I figure the mishap with the diffs was a one time thing, due to my misunderstanding of how they diffs are supposed to work. However if they burn out again, the car is going on ebay and I'm going to look at something else. Some say the differential setup is one of the best, but when I use to run nitro, I usually had shaft driven 4wd vehicles with the gear-type diffs and never had a problem with them.

Thanks, Kevin