PsycoB4

iTrader: (42)

Well Finally Got my Buggy and cannot wait to race her. Just setting her up tonight to get ready for first practice in 5 years.

Can anyone tell me what is missing or to what kit I had gotten in trade?

Also what Alloy Parts and Chassis they recommend.?

If anyone can post up a pic of thier buggy for me close up that would be great.
Would like to see how much has changed since my cougar haha.

Happy racing

--Chris

PsycoB4

iTrader: (42)

Azzkikin

Here's what I've done and come up with.
Flipped the fronts and gained around an 1/8" in wheelbase.
Flipped the rears and slid the hubs all the way forward shortening the wheelbase to 288.925mm (11.375").
So I'll see how that handles.


Full race trim weight

JsK

iTrader: (10)

What surface are you running on?

PsycoB4

iTrader: (42)

hard clay high bite, and they run slicks

ian.joyner

Let us know how you get on, I think you'll find that the best traction yet. If it's stepping out mid corner consider moving your rear shocks in at the top and bottom too.

JsK

iTrader: (10)

Front to rear.

You already have the alloy steering carriers so your good there. The alum caster blocks can be a good addition(U4228) but the plastic ones work fine, just make sure you have enough ball stud length to put a nut on the backside or you will break them out of the hub. The alloy rack(U4619) gives another adjustment hole but the plastic is usually not a problem on clay. I would space it up at least 2mm though to tame down the steering. I never ran the side guard braces,I prefer the flex of the carbon top plate.

The Core servo horn is going to be the best fit for the car.

In the rear you are defenetly going to want the alum trans top the allows you to run the shocks on the rear. U4616. A ball diff is a must with this car on clay.

Some things to consider for clay.

Narrow rear hexes, B5 plastic or U4860.
4 deg toe blocks, U4719.
Spring set.

Petitrc is a great resource for setup sheets and electronics setups.

Did you visit the links in the Wiki?

This is my base setup for clay in the low grip config.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/schuma..._ICRC20140914/

JsK

iTrader: (10)

Low Grip Mod Astro car RTR.



Layout

Azzkikin

Well I did get the best traction yet. I had some real car problems so was not able to get to the track early enough to test all the different setups. Outside of the front and rear arms flipped and rear hubs slid all the way forward. I was running a 1deg anitisquat in the rear. The rear upper shocks were in to the middle hole and lower all the way out. And 30wt white springs. The front I was running blue springs, 32.5 wt and upper holes in to the middle.

The car was planted for the most part, except coming out of the corners. If I got on the throttle too hard before exiting the corner, it would just push straight until I backed off and brought the weight back over the front wheels. I do have the SV2 front shock tower to help with the front arms from unloading.

So a few things I can try,
Increase anitisquat
add limiters to the front shocks

Thoughts?

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Before you do anything, try different front tires. Just to rule that out.

If the tires doesn't cure it, run the front arms standard again and you should get more steering.

Don't remember if you ever answered, but did you try Orlowski's Reedy Race setup as a starting point? He ran MM at OCRC.

Azzkikin

I did try Orlowski's setup as much as I could without buying more parts like the front camber link mount.

I tried 3 different sets of fronts. Microns, Dirt Webs and Enigma. The traction was the best with the Webs.

I noticed on Orlowski's car, his front camber links don't have the offset ball cups. Is that only possible with the aluminum camber link mount? I ask, cause that seems to be a weak point for my cartwheel stunt/crashes. lol.

CruiseM

You can run normal ballcups on all camber link mounts and hub carriers.
I highly recommend this as it is less prone to popping off and as an extra it's more direct to drive.

You will need the Xtra long balls and 3mm Spacers I'm running a M3 nut behind the Carrier

Cruise

Azzkikin

Very cool. Thanks for the tip.

ian.joyner

Agree with Bob's points, great that you've managed to get the rear locked in. You can also consider moving the rear hubs back to the middle to loosen it up a bit.

You said "throttle too hard before exiting the corner" so may also just need to be a bit more patient on the throttle .

Turtle Speed

iTrader: (11)

Did Schmacher update the KF2 a bit? Noticed another kit option on Discount RC's page!