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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5
17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 03-12-2015, 08:52 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by alport78 View Post
HI,
I ordered recently a kf2 to have something different in my country (Turkey) I won't have any local support at least for a while so should stock some spares to end up the races. I race only 13.5t superstock on a tight indoor carpet track with medium grip level.
-My budget is limited so I should buy as few as possible spare parts. I assume Wishbones, hubs (don't know ıf I would need all 3 of them ?) rod ends are must have. What about front shock shafts, hinge pins, front bulkhead , belt or any other parts ?
-For setup I will order 5 degree yokes and some springs but don't know which springs should I have for my conditions described above . I'm totally unfamiliar with the car and brand
If you have been following this thread recently you may have noticed that there are quite a few people shearing the front axles on relatively minor collisions. This happened to me. This may or may not be due to a bad batch of parts (over-hardened and therefore brittle) as some have speculated. The part number for these is U4382 and they come in pairs.

Tony Newland and others on this list have recommended getting some spare front and rear hub carriers (U4380 and U4036) but I have not broken either personally. There is some discussion about parts durability on the previous "KF" thread on this board that you may want to go through. It has a wealth of information and experiences from others that should also help you a lot.

You are racing on medium (to high?) grip carpet so you may end up wanting to fine tune the gear diff in your car with a spectrum of silicone oils ranging from maybe 1k (in cst) on the low end to 12.5k (kit) or even higher on the high end (50k). Higher viscosity will make the car push more entering turns. Given your surface I am betting that you will end up between 3k and 7k but that assumes a lot. CoreRC silicone oils are good quality and are used by the team drivers for this purpose.

For further tuning purposes I would also recommend getting a set of the metal shims that are used to adjust some of the suspension link positions (U4314). Lastly, the aluminum upper trans housing (U4616) will allow you to mount the shocks on the back of the rear wishbones. This is a really nice option for moving some additional weight to the rear.

A great resource for starting out is the collection of setup sheets at PetitRC.com

petitrc.com/setup/schumacher/setupcougarkf

Go through them and find a track that seems close to the track you will be running at and use the setup as a starting point.

I am not sure if they ship internationally or if you already have a good source for parts but DiscountRCStore.com is the best place I know of to get Schumacher parts quickly and correctly and good prices.

I hope this all helps. Let us know how it goes as you get things together.
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Old 03-12-2015, 12:02 PM   #122
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Originally Posted by motorcitymatt View Post
If you have been following this thread recently you may have noticed that there are quite a few people shearing the front axles on relatively minor collisions. This happened to me. This may or may not be due to a bad batch of parts (over-hardened and therefore brittle) as some have speculated. The part number for these is U4382 and they come in pairs.

Tony Newland and others on this list have recommended getting some spare front and rear hub carriers (U4380 and U4036) but I have not broken either personally. There is some discussion about parts durability on the previous "KF" thread on this board that you may want to go through. It has a wealth of information and experiences from others that should also help you a lot.

You are racing on medium (to high?) grip carpet so you may end up wanting to fine tune the gear diff in your car with a spectrum of silicone oils ranging from maybe 1k (in cst) on the low end to 12.5k (kit) or even higher on the high end (50k). Higher viscosity will make the car push more entering turns. Given your surface I am betting that you will end up between 3k and 7k but that assumes a lot. CoreRC silicone oils are good quality and are used by the team drivers for this purpose.

For further tuning purposes I would also recommend getting a set of the metal shims that are used to adjust some of the suspension link positions (U4314). Lastly, the aluminum upper trans housing (U4616) will allow you to mount the shocks on the back of the rear wishbones. This is a really nice option for moving some additional weight to the rear.

A great resource for starting out is the collection of setup sheets at PetitRC.com

petitrc.com/setup/schumacher/setupcougarkf

Go through them and find a track that seems close to the track you will be running at and use the setup as a starting point.

I am not sure if they ship internationally or if you already have a good source for parts but DiscountRCStore.com is the best place I know of to get Schumacher parts quickly and correctly and good prices.

I hope this all helps. Let us know how it goes as you get things together.
U4616 is out of stock everywhere with no time frame on a new batch being released. Without it my car is undrivable on even mid bite tracks.
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Old 03-12-2015, 12:10 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by mikeking04 View Post
We are also running high grip carpet and the carbon chassis is def alot better. We weighed them and it was a 53gram dif which is helpful in stock racing.
My car in stock with the alumnus chassis can barely clear any jumps. Have a 72?tooth spur, and have tried from a 25-34 toothinion. Nothing really helps. Going to throw in a 13.5 to see if I can get gearing that will make it move. They finally tilled, resurfaced, and changed our home track which should bring up the grip which was Non-existent. May try the car again, but feel without the alloy diff uprights car is a lost cause.
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Old 03-12-2015, 02:43 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by motorcitymatt View Post
If you have been following this thread recently you may have noticed that there are quite a few people shearing the front axles on relatively minor collisions. This happened to me. This may or may not be due to a bad batch of parts (over-hardened and therefore brittle) as some have speculated. The part number for these is U4382 and they come in pairs.

Tony Newland and others on this list have recommended getting some spare front and rear hub carriers (U4380 and U4036) but I have not broken either personally. There is some discussion about parts durability on the previous "KF" thread on this board that you may want to go through. It has a wealth of information and experiences from others that should also help you a lot.

You are racing on medium (to high?) grip carpet so you may end up wanting to fine tune the gear diff in your car with a spectrum of silicone oils ranging from maybe 1k (in cst) on the low end to 12.5k (kit) or even higher on the high end (50k). Higher viscosity will make the car push more entering turns. Given your surface I am betting that you will end up between 3k and 7k but that assumes a lot. CoreRC silicone oils are good quality and are used by the team drivers for this purpose.

For further tuning purposes I would also recommend getting a set of the metal shims that are used to adjust some of the suspension link positions (U4314). Lastly, the aluminum upper trans housing (U4616) will allow you to mount the shocks on the back of the rear wishbones. This is a really nice option for moving some additional weight to the rear.

A great resource for starting out is the collection of setup sheets at PetitRC.com

petitrc.com/setup/schumacher/setupcougarkf

Go through them and find a track that seems close to the track you will be running at and use the setup as a starting point.

I am not sure if they ship internationally or if you already have a good source for parts but DiscountRCStore.com is the best place I know of to get Schumacher parts quickly and correctly and good prices.

I hope this all helps. Let us know how it goes as you get things together.
Thanks for detailed explanation. I allready ordered the car and some spares from discountrc.com Don't like to upgrade cars before trying factory setups first but will look for u4616 too
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Old 03-12-2015, 04:09 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
My car in stock with the alumnus chassis can barely clear any jumps. Have a 72?tooth spur, and have tried from a 25-34 toothinion. Nothing really helps. Going to throw in a 13.5 to see if I can get gearing that will make it move. They finally tilled, resurfaced, and changed our home track which should bring up the grip which was Non-existent. May try the car again, but feel without the alloy diff uprights car is a lost cause.
Not entirely lost. Look at the pictures Tony listed here:
Schumacher Cougar KF!!!
He is using the kit upright with shims/spacers to get the tower further back. I runs his setup from IRCR, and is working pretty good. Try it out.
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:46 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
My car in stock with the alumnus chassis can barely clear any jumps. Have a 72?tooth spur, and have tried from a 25-34 toothinion. Nothing really helps. Going to throw in a 13.5 to see if I can get gearing that will make it move. They finally tilled, resurfaced, and changed our home track which should bring up the grip which was Non-existent. May try the car again, but feel without the alloy diff uprights car is a lost cause.
Why can't the car clear jumps, lack of traction? Are there corners in front of the jumps and then you can't get the speed up for them? If so there are other things you can try. Any chance you can post your set up so we can have a look?
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:19 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
My car in stock with the alumnus chassis can barely clear any jumps. Have a 72?tooth spur, and have tried from a 25-34 toothinion. Nothing really helps. Going to throw in a 13.5 to see if I can get gearing that will make it move. They finally tilled, resurfaced, and changed our home track which should bring up the grip which was Non-existent. May try the car again, but feel without the alloy diff uprights car is a lost cause.
Post your setup and are you on clay or dirt? Also are/ were you running a 17.5?
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Old 03-13-2015, 02:25 AM   #128
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I have a question about the rear shocks, i see you can run them mounted in front of the arm or on the back of the arm and i was wondering what does this change as far as handling. Also i am going to run medium grip clay track what way should i run them?
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Old 03-13-2015, 08:55 PM   #129
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I have a question about the rear shocks, i see you can run them mounted in front of the arm or on the back of the arm and i was wondering what does this change as far as handling. Also i am going to run medium grip clay track what way should i run them?
It's all about setup but when running the shocks in the rear makes the car feel plush. But you will need the aluminum parts to run the shocks in the rear
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Old 03-14-2015, 12:21 AM   #130
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Why can't the car clear jumps, lack of traction? Are there corners in front of the jumps and then you can't get the speed up for them? If so there are other things you can try. Any chance you can post your set up so we can have a look?
Zero acceleration in stock. I've been trading messages back and forth with Tony Newland and have his setup on the car now. There is just zero whoomp with this thing. I threw in a 13.5 and geared it 72/27. Still dog slow. Checked punch control on speedo, is at 9 running a 100c Lipo. Running low traction chassis setup, ball diff, shocks rear. Tracks I frequent are high to super high bite clay tracks. Last thing I am going to try before selling it is cvds and junking the universals. I know it's not the slipper cause that's locked. Motor is a Shurr speed 17.5 that's is balls out ballistic in my other two buggies.
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Old 03-14-2015, 10:17 AM   #131
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Zero acceleration in stock. I've been trading messages back and forth with Tony Newland and have his setup on the car now. There is just zero whoomp with this thing. I threw in a 13.5 and geared it 72/27. Still dog slow. Checked punch control on speedo, is at 9 running a 100c Lipo. Running low traction chassis setup, ball diff, shocks rear. Tracks I frequent are high to super high bite clay tracks. Last thing I am going to try before selling it is cvds and junking the universals. I know it's not the slipper cause that's locked. Motor is a Shurr speed 17.5 that's is balls out ballistic in my other two buggies.

Did you re calibrate your esc? Lol

The car is fast period. Sounds like you have issues some where else. How tight is your belt?
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Old 03-14-2015, 06:37 PM   #132
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Did you re calibrate your esc? Lol

The car is fast period. Sounds like you have issues some where else. How tight is your belt?
I would say medium tight. Can push it down about 5mm. Any looser and it slips.
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Old 03-14-2015, 08:25 PM   #133
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I would say medium tight. Can push it down about 5mm. Any looser and it slips.
Talking with the stock guys you should be 71/31. This is on a short carpet track but also works great on a large high bite clay track
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Old 03-14-2015, 09:52 PM   #134
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They finally tilled, resurfaced, and changed our home track which should bring up the grip which was Non-existent.
If the grip has been that bad why lock the slipper? You're not getting any wheel-spin?
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Old 03-14-2015, 11:43 PM   #135
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Talking with the stock guys you should be 71/31. This is on a short carpet track but also works great on a large high bite clay track
Will give that a shot.
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