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Old 07-29-2016, 08:27 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5
17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 11-23-2016, 04:19 PM   #1096
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Well Finally Got my Buggy and cannot wait to race her. Just setting her up tonight to get ready for first practice in 5 years.

Can anyone tell me what is missing or to what kit I had gotten in trade?

Also what Alloy Parts and Chassis they recommend.?

If anyone can post up a pic of thier buggy for me close up that would be great.
Would like to see how much has changed since my cougar haha.

Happy racing

--Chris
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New Schumacher KF2-img_0914.jpg   New Schumacher KF2-img_0915.jpg   New Schumacher KF2-img_0918.jpg  
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Old 11-23-2016, 04:21 PM   #1097
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Old 11-23-2016, 04:30 PM   #1098
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Here's what I've done and come up with.
Flipped the fronts and gained around an 1/8" in wheelbase.
Flipped the rears and slid the hubs all the way forward shortening the wheelbase to 288.925mm (11.375").
So I'll see how that handles.


Full race trim weight
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Old 11-23-2016, 05:41 PM   #1099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PsycoB4 View Post
Well Finally Got my Buggy and cannot wait to race her. Just setting her up tonight to get ready for first practice in 5 years.

Can anyone tell me what is missing or to what kit I had gotten in trade?

Also what Alloy Parts and Chassis they recommend.?

If anyone can post up a pic of thier buggy for me close up that would be great.
Would like to see how much has changed since my cougar haha.

Happy racing

--Chris
What surface are you running on?
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Old 11-24-2016, 06:34 AM   #1100
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What surface are you running on?
hard clay high bite, and they run slicks
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:26 AM   #1101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azzkikin View Post
Here's what I've done and come up with.
Flipped the fronts and gained around an 1/8" in wheelbase.
Flipped the rears and slid the hubs all the way forward shortening the wheelbase to 288.925mm (11.375").
So I'll see how that handles.
Let us know how you get on, I think you'll find that the best traction yet. If it's stepping out mid corner consider moving your rear shocks in at the top and bottom too.
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Old 11-24-2016, 08:05 PM   #1102
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hard clay high bite, and they run slicks
Front to rear.

You already have the alloy steering carriers so your good there. The alum caster blocks can be a good addition(U4228) but the plastic ones work fine, just make sure you have enough ball stud length to put a nut on the backside or you will break them out of the hub. The alloy rack(U4619) gives another adjustment hole but the plastic is usually not a problem on clay. I would space it up at least 2mm though to tame down the steering. I never ran the side guard braces,I prefer the flex of the carbon top plate.

The Core servo horn is going to be the best fit for the car.

In the rear you are defenetly going to want the alum trans top the allows you to run the shocks on the rear. U4616. A ball diff is a must with this car on clay.

Some things to consider for clay.

Narrow rear hexes, B5 plastic or U4860.
4 deg toe blocks, U4719.
Spring set.

Petitrc is a great resource for setup sheets and electronics setups.

Did you visit the links in the Wiki?

This is my base setup for clay in the low grip config.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/schuma..._ICRC20140914/
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:13 PM   #1103
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Low Grip Mod Astro car RTR.



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Old 11-28-2016, 05:53 AM   #1104
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Let us know how you get on, I think you'll find that the best traction yet. If it's stepping out mid corner consider moving your rear shocks in at the top and bottom too.
Well I did get the best traction yet. I had some real car problems so was not able to get to the track early enough to test all the different setups. Outside of the front and rear arms flipped and rear hubs slid all the way forward. I was running a 1deg anitisquat in the rear. The rear upper shocks were in to the middle hole and lower all the way out. And 30wt white springs. The front I was running blue springs, 32.5 wt and upper holes in to the middle.

The car was planted for the most part, except coming out of the corners. If I got on the throttle too hard before exiting the corner, it would just push straight until I backed off and brought the weight back over the front wheels. I do have the SV2 front shock tower to help with the front arms from unloading.

So a few things I can try,
Increase anitisquat
add limiters to the front shocks

Thoughts?
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:35 AM   #1105
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Originally Posted by Azzkikin View Post
Well I did get the best traction yet. I had some real car problems so was not able to get to the track early enough to test all the different setups. Outside of the front and rear arms flipped and rear hubs slid all the way forward. I was running a 1deg anitisquat in the rear. The rear upper shocks were in to the middle hole and lower all the way out. And 30wt white springs. The front I was running blue springs, 32.5 wt and upper holes in to the middle.

The car was planted for the most part, except coming out of the corners. If I got on the throttle too hard before exiting the corner, it would just push straight until I backed off and brought the weight back over the front wheels. I do have the SV2 front shock tower to help with the front arms from unloading.

So a few things I can try,
Increase anitisquat
add limiters to the front shocks

Thoughts?
Before you do anything, try different front tires. Just to rule that out.

If the tires doesn't cure it, run the front arms standard again and you should get more steering.

Don't remember if you ever answered, but did you try Orlowski's Reedy Race setup as a starting point? He ran MM at OCRC.
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:49 AM   #1106
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I did try Orlowski's setup as much as I could without buying more parts like the front camber link mount.

I tried 3 different sets of fronts. Microns, Dirt Webs and Enigma. The traction was the best with the Webs.

I noticed on Orlowski's car, his front camber links don't have the offset ball cups. Is that only possible with the aluminum camber link mount? I ask, cause that seems to be a weak point for my cartwheel stunt/crashes. lol.
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:14 AM   #1107
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You can run normal ballcups on all camber link mounts and hub carriers.
I highly recommend this as it is less prone to popping off and as an extra it's more direct to drive.

You will need the Xtra long balls and 3mm Spacers I'm running a M3 nut behind the Carrier

Cruise
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:39 AM   #1108
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Quote:
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You can run normal ballcups on all camber link mounts and hub carriers.
I highly recommend this as it is less prone to popping off and as an extra it's more direct to drive.

You will need the Xtra long balls and 3mm Spacers I'm running a M3 nut behind the Carrier

Cruise
Very cool. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:47 AM   #1109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Before you do anything, try different front tires. Just to rule that out.

If the tires doesn't cure it, run the front arms standard again and you should get more steering.

Don't remember if you ever answered, but did you try Orlowski's Reedy Race setup as a starting point? He ran MM at OCRC.
Agree with Bob's points, great that you've managed to get the rear locked in. You can also consider moving the rear hubs back to the middle to loosen it up a bit.

You said "throttle too hard before exiting the corner" so may also just need to be a bit more patient on the throttle .
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:43 PM   #1110
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Did Schmacher update the KF2 a bit? Noticed another kit option on Discount RC's page!
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