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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

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Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
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17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 08-30-2016, 05:09 PM   #931
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Originally Posted by oldernoob View Post
Probably just me, but I just don't get the 17.5 thing at all. It seems like it 'should' be the most inexpensive class, yet actually costs more-way more. Why not run mod and have done with it?
its only expensive if you take it to the extreme. Those super extreme guys win at all costs are what ruin the intention of the class an they are the same guys that wonder why guys quit showing up.
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:58 PM   #932
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Originally Posted by MelKF2 View Post
The only other thing I can suggest is that you might have springs that are bad! Out of tolerance!
I replaced the springs in all four corners with new Schu springs, not Core RC, and everything works beautifully! No issues at all. The suspension settles just as it should and the ride height remains where it was set.

Thanks for the help.

Any new rumors regarding the geared tranny Orlowski used a couple months ago outdoors?
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:11 PM   #933
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I bought the KF2SE so my car came with the MM kit. For clay I would start with Orlowski's Reedy Race setup from earlier this year and work off it.
I think this is good advice for anyone running on any OCRC-like clay tracks here in the states.

A few observations about Orlowski's car that are not mentioned on the setup sheet. If you look very closely at the photos you will see....
  • Drilled rear shock tower to lean shocks further in at the top
  • Shorter SV2 front arms
  • Flipped rear arms
  • 90g worth of weight added around the back of the chassis

I have my car handling very well at the moment on a track that has more grip with a very similar setup to Orlowski's. I am not running a drilled tower yet but I will probably try it at some point. The inside holes on the KF2 tower are still substantially wider then even the middle holes of the competition (B6/5M, 22 3.0 etc)

I also have another thing I am going to test that I think will make the car even better on our clay tracks.
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Old 08-31-2016, 05:19 AM   #934
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Ya, I am going to run Orlowski's Reedy Race setup this Friday and see how it handles. I'll pull the HRC kit and try and get to his setup as close as I can. Although I am running stock, so the 90g of weight might not be the answer. I also don't have the MM. So we shall see.
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:23 AM   #935
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Originally Posted by motorcitymatt View Post
I think this is good advice for anyone running on any OCRC-like clay tracks here in the states.

A few observations about Orlowski's car that are not mentioned on the setup sheet. If you look very closely at the photos you will see....
  • Drilled rear shock tower to lean shocks further in at the top
  • Shorter SV2 front arms
  • Flipped rear arms
  • 90g worth of weight added around the back of the chassis

I have my car handling very well at the moment on a track that has more grip with a very similar setup to Orlowski's. I am not running a drilled tower yet but I will probably try it at some point. The inside holes on the KF2 tower are still substantially wider then even the middle holes of the competition (B6/5M, 22 3.0 etc)

I also have another thing I am going to test that I think will make the car even better on our clay tracks.
At the moment I'm planning on running my SV2 on clay this winter and my KF2 on turf and carpet. My 'proposed' race schedule would be carpet Sat, Clay Sun. So that means I would constantly be making big changes.

If for some reason my SV2 doesn't work for me, I'll likely just get another KF2.

If I ran 10th scale all year around, it would be easy. I'd have 3 cars. One turf. One clay. One to build for 17.5 for either surface. But I only get maybe 4-5 months a year to run 10th scale
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Old 08-31-2016, 10:05 PM   #936
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Where are you guys finding these lockouts? I have looked everywhere, RCM doesn't mention it on their site either.

Is the small bore shocks just for weight savings or are there more tuning options available?
I noticed that might want to call them! Small bore shocks make the buggy feel more plush! However, 1/8 scale size jumps not recommended.
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:34 PM   #937
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I thought you guys might be interested in the layout/setup that I started running in 17.5 that is working well on medium-bite clay. Moving the speedo to the back got me an additional 1.5% weight bias to the rear. Currently the car scales at 61.5/39.5 % front to rear. I added about 58g of counter weight on the other side of the chassis to balance with the speedo. I also run a 45g low-pro servo in the front (Spektrum S6270). The speedo is a HobbyWing XR10 non-timing. It just barely fits in there between the chassis rail and side gears.
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Old 09-03-2016, 06:47 AM   #938
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Hello all!

I'm seriously considering a KF2 SE to get back into 2WD buggy (I've been taking a break from racing for 3 years). We have a brand new local track that is said to be med/high traction clay and most are running 10.5T motors.

I've been digging through this thread (lots of good info!) but I'm wondering if the consensus is still that the KF2 SE set up in MM config works well for Med traction clay or is it really best suited to High traction situations like astro, etc? I'm really attracted to the KF2 mainly due to the apparent quality of the Schumacher products but, in the end, I want to get a buggy that will be competitive and not require an endless number of mods/tweaks/kluges to make it work. Thanks in advance for any input you can provide!

Cheers!
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Old 09-03-2016, 02:57 PM   #939
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Hello all!

I'm seriously considering a KF2 SE to get back into 2WD buggy (I've been taking a break from racing for 3 years). We have a brand new local track that is said to be med/high traction clay and most are running 10.5T motors.

I've been digging through this thread (lots of good info!) but I'm wondering if the consensus is still that the KF2 SE set up in MM config works well for Med traction clay or is it really best suited to High traction situations like astro, etc? I'm really attracted to the KF2 mainly due to the apparent quality of the Schumacher products but, in the end, I want to get a buggy that will be competitive and not require an endless number of mods/tweaks/kluges to make it work. Thanks in advance for any input you can provide!

Cheers!
Personally I would say no, Don't get me wrong these are great cars. The materials, fit
,packaging ,manual, build etc are all the best in class. As far
as i am concerned every product manager at any RC company that build kits
should be required to build a Schumacher to know how to do the packaging correctly.

But the KF is a very narrow range car that really only works well when the
grip is higher than most clay tracks can keep on a consistent basis. Can you
make it work yeah but its never gonna have the rear grip of a 22 3.0 or B5,B6.

Now if all this sounds like I am down on the car that's not true, Our local track
went astro and I can tell you when the car gets on a surface it likes its magic
I just really never saw the car perform like that on any clay track unless the
grip was abnormally high because of a big race.

If you where running on Astro or Carpet I would say go for it, clay no.
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Old 09-03-2016, 03:12 PM   #940
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Hello all!

I'm seriously considering a KF2 SE to get back into 2WD buggy (I've been taking a break from racing for 3 years). We have a brand new local track that is said to be med/high traction clay and most are running 10.5T motors.

I've been digging through this thread (lots of good info!) but I'm wondering if the consensus is still that the KF2 SE set up in MM config works well for Med traction clay or is it really best suited to High traction situations like astro, etc? I'm really attracted to the KF2 mainly due to the apparent quality of the Schumacher products but, in the end, I want to get a buggy that will be competitive and not require an endless number of mods/tweaks/kluges to make it work. Thanks in advance for any input you can provide!

Cheers!
KF2 is a good buggy! Great buggy for carpet/astro turf, but I must confess it does take a bit of tinkering to get it locked end to dirt tracks. I can tell you this it is a momentum vehicle does not like hard acceleration (Squaring up) out of corners, so momentum is a necessity in my opinion. There are a few option parts you need I recommend U4616, U4719, CR466 U4680. Over all I love the buggy(s) and the chassis options you get and quality is outstanding! Good luck in making your choice.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:03 PM   #941
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Thanks for the input...I appreciate it! Sounds like I'm barking up the wrong tree with a KF2 SE .

Am I correct then in saying that Schumacher doesn't really have a car to directly compete with things like the B5M/B6D, RB6 and others who have MM cars that also work on medium traction clay? I know there's the KR but that seems like it's a bit of a throwback...or perhaps that's what I should be looking at? Anyway, I appreciate the assistance.

Cheers!
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:15 PM   #942
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The SV2 is the only car that comes close and its an old kit that requires a bit of updating.
To get one fully updated would prob be over 400.
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:09 PM   #943
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all the sv2 really needs is the plan b chassis and its good to go.
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:07 PM   #944
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
The SV2 is the only car that comes close and its an old kit that requires a bit of updating.
To get one fully updated would prob be over 400.
Just for giggles, what upgrades would you consider required for an SV2 to be competitive today?

Cheers!
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:11 PM   #945
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all the sv2 really needs is the plan b chassis and its good to go.
Well not quite, unless he has a good supply of older wheels and Aarms.

12mm hexes.

With the chassis you need the molded rear brace and pin that goes with it.

Shocks,depending on how old the kit is he may need new red shock orings, 2 hole pistons,
as the factory 4/6hole ones are useless on anything but astro or carpet.

Suspension uses the older narrow front arm and bottom plate so unless he replaces broken
Arms with orginal sv2 parts he will have to swap it all out to use the current long arms.

Also all the parts are standard plastic so running on clay he would want all med flex stuff.

And unless you like the stck body you will need to try and dig up one of the proline ones or
use a KR body.

Trust me i built this exact car for our track before we changed to astro. Sits in a box now.
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