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Old 07-29-2016, 08:27 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Last edit by: MelKF2
Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5
17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 01-26-2016, 07:20 PM   #691
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Originally Posted by gokarter64 View Post
A sponsored guy here has built a slapped together car using a kf2 chassis snd grout end with a sv2 gearbox, it looks pretty quick
Maizer put together his version of a mid motor chassis, which he said was at the 37/63 number! His version however, did inspire what we now call the MM.
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:24 PM   #692
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Yes!
Haha! i thought as much! I'm very tempted to buy the hardware and drill the Aluminium chassis. If i like it, i can then blow on the Carbon one.

But Carbon looks so nice...
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:55 PM   #693
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So, is the mid conversion a 'must have' if on dirt? Should be getting my KF2 tomorrow :-)
Yes, the mm is a definite for dirt. I wouldn't get to wrapped up about the weight distribution. Mine is at 41/59 but I was really surprised when I ran the mm conversion for the first time. Going with a lite weight shorty made a BIG difference. I was noticeable faster with my KF2 in mm config then I had been with my KR. Looking forward to getting more run time on it over the next few weeks.
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Old 01-26-2016, 08:18 PM   #694
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Originally Posted by Riverbluff View Post
Yes, the mm is a definite for dirt. I wouldn't get to wrapped up about the weight distribution. Mine is at 41/59 but I was really surprised when I ran the mm conversion for the first time. Going with a lite weight shorty made a BIG difference. I was noticeable faster with my KF2 in mm config then I had been with my KR. Looking forward to getting more run time on it over the next few weeks.
I have my MM set for what I hope is a good starting point for high bite clay (indoors SRS Arizona). At 39/61 with long wheel base and 65grs. at the rear. Running stock weight is at 1513grs. Protek 2800 XLW (144grs). Really surprising power from this battery with the Certified 24K 17.5.
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Old 01-26-2016, 08:27 PM   #695
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I have my MM set for what I hope is a good starting point for high bite clay (indoors SRS Arizona). At 39/61 with long wheel base and 65grs. at the rear. Running stock weight is at 1513grs. Protek 2800 XLW (144grs). Really surprising power from this battery with the Certified 24K 17.5.
I haven't ran mine at SRS yet but am hoping to make a trip up there within the next couple weeks. I got the KF2 primarily for SRS.
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Old 01-27-2016, 04:46 AM   #696
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The car is setup in the mid motor position and I have the arms and hubs in forward positions. The weight distribution is still 1.5% away from the the magic numbers (around 37/63). I have gone after wheelbase because imo it was too short with the rear arm/hub position. With this chassis I now have a wheelbase of a b5m (I own one). The sterring has dulled down it's now similar, but still quicker than a b5m and the car is not as twitchy. This may not be the answer for everyone, as I do run mod and I still have to add weight to the car. It's just an option for kf2 owners to consider/try for themselves.
Thanks for the feedback, I might get one made to try. Is the chassis in carbon or alloy?

You might want to try extending the wheelbase at the hub to "medium" as a minimum with the rear arms reversed as the driveshaft sweep at 'full-short' is great enough to bind up the UJs a little which in turn will take traction off the car (similar to how a UJ is better for traction than a CVD). Just something I've noticed.

Get the same thing in reverse if you run the car 'fully long' as we often want to do on very high grip carpet / astro, there I split the difference by using a washer and thin quick clip so the driveshaft bones are fully straight.
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Old 01-27-2016, 08:23 AM   #697
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Originally Posted by gokarter64 View Post
A sponsored guy here has built a slapped together car using a kf2 chassis snd front end with a sv2 gearbox, it looks pretty quick
Isn't that just an SV2?
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:37 AM   #698
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Thing is, it seems to me that the KB5M is trying to get weight forwards and low with the lowrider gearbox and we're trying to go the opposite direction and push more weight backwards!

I'd have thought that we are in a better place, as we can move out configuration around to suit but there must be a sweet spot. Are we about there with the Mid conversion?
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:57 AM   #699
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Thanks for the feedback, I might get one made to try. Is the chassis in carbon or alloy?

You might want to try extending the wheelbase at the hub to "medium" as a minimum with the rear arms reversed as the driveshaft sweep at 'full-short' is great enough to bind up the UJs a little which in turn will take traction off the car (similar to how a UJ is better for traction than a CVD). Just something I've noticed.

Get the same thing in reverse if you run the car 'fully long' as we often want to do on very high grip carpet / astro, there I split the difference by using a washer and thin quick clip so the driveshaft bones are fully straight.
I understand what you are saying. I'm running the car on a medium grip clay track so not quite the grip level of carpet/astro. With the original chassis fitted I tried what you are saying, this took away rear traction. To cut a long story short, I managed to achieve reasonable traction but the car had a tendency to be unpredictable. The chassis is carbon and has improved the car, lap times prove this. I no everybody are chasing magic numbers, but for what? Also I don't run a top deck so the chassis does flex a little more than the alloy. I'm not trying to prove anything I just wanted to share what I have done because I haven't seen or heard anybody else try it.
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Old 01-28-2016, 05:54 AM   #700
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Isn't that just an SV2?
If you are taking about the pic on pg.19 that's Steve Maizer version! Not a SV2
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:04 AM   #701
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I haven't ran mine at SRS yet but am hoping to make a trip up there within the next couple weeks. I got the KF2 primarily for SRS.
Sweet! I'm not going to be there until the end of February! Getting ready to order parts for K2 before I leave so I will have both buggy's ready to test! Cactus Classic starts the first week in March hoping to get plenty of practice before then!
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:48 PM   #702
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Sweet! I'm not going to be there until the end of February! Getting ready to order parts for K2 before I leave so I will have both buggy's ready to test! Cactus Classic starts the first week in March hoping to get plenty of practice before then!
Shoot me a pm and let me know what weekend you plan to be there in Feb. I'll do my best to come up that weekend. We can compare setups, etc... It will be nice to have another Schumacher around to compare with.
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Old 01-30-2016, 06:20 AM   #703
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Shoot me a pm and let me know what weekend you plan to be there in Feb. I'll do my best to come up that weekend. We can compare setups, etc... It will be nice to have another Schumacher around to compare with.
I will do that!!
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Old 01-30-2016, 07:34 PM   #704
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Hey guys, I have to replace my side pods on the KF (original car). It has the Low grip Chassis on it and I'm running it in the rear position with a shorty battery.

Can I use KF2 side pods? I ask because the local shop has them in stock but they don't have the original one's in stock.
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:21 PM   #705
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Hey guys, I have to replace my side pods on the KF (original car). It has the Low grip Chassis on it and I'm running it in the rear position with a shorty battery.

Can I use KF2 side pods? I ask because the local shop has them in stock but they don't have the original one's in stock.
Check the manual and get the part number. Then do a part number check on Amain and see if the part numbers are the same. I believe they are but I'm not 100% certian. If you don't have the manual, you can go to the Schumacher home page and download it.
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