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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5
17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 11-18-2015, 05:45 PM   #631
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What do you think is a good price for a used kf, he wants 130 for his. I havent really found many for sale.
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:24 AM   #632
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JP, did you ever run the mid-motor version? Or are your comments based on the intermediate motor position?
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:21 AM   #633
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JP, did you ever run the mid-motor version? Or are your comments based on the intermediate motor position?
yes I do run the MM I helped make that car. I have the prototype mm kf for sale on ebay. as of now if you are going to by a car get the KFSE
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:26 AM   #634
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I thought it was confirmed that Schumacher will NOT be continuing the SV line.
I find it hard to believe that they wont make a true three gear mm car, or a KF MM car with the motor back at the diff. I have been asking for a 17.5 car before the b5m light was thought of. that was why I made my own to show them it would work.
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:57 PM   #635
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Heres some pics, is this worth $130, seems like it to me but im new to 1/10 buggies, thanks









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Old 11-19-2015, 03:59 PM   #636
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Heres some pics, is this worth $130, seems like it to me but im new to 1/10 buggies, thanks









looks like a pretty good deal to me.
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:06 PM   #637
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looks like a pretty good deal to me.
car looks like it got wet maybe run on wet grass unless the front screws are dirty, they look rusty.
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:27 PM   #638
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Yeah i noticed that right away too, if i buy it ill definitely be replacing those. Do these buggies come with multiple chassis or are those extra? He was telling me each one has different weight.

What do these buggies usually go for, theres only one on ebay for 250, but it has tons of extras

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Old 11-19-2015, 05:44 PM   #639
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If all it is is a few rusted screws I say go for it. Check the rear axle joints for rust too. If you buy it I would tear it down and rebuild it anyways.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:21 PM   #640
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JP, did you ever run the mid-motor version? Or are your comments based on the intermediate motor position?
Yes, I have the MM version of the car, but ultimately ended up customizing my car similar to Maizer's. I think Schu should have joined the motor assembly with the rear tranny to make one unit in order to move the motor as far rearward as possible.

I still have the car. I've invested too much energy (AKA money) into this car to part with it.

Even with my custom hack job, it still turns like a dream!
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:51 PM   #641
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As far as I know you can't download them from the Schumacher web site, so I scanned the little instruction sheets that came with a few of the KF2 option parts.

U4199: https://db.tt/A1VU1zlU
U4616: https://db.tt/yPszCG5h
U4640: https://db.tt/QqpuPw4F
U4708: https://db.tt/Xa9itObv & https://db.tt/wTQTBQCa

I haven't been able to assemble (dry or with oil) the gear diff yet without it being very rough. I have tried every variation of shims, too. I have the ball diff so I guess it is no big deal but I still wish I could figure out what I am doing wrong with the gear diff.

Everything else about the kit has been awesome.

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Old 11-24-2015, 05:03 PM   #642
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Originally Posted by Xyzzy View Post
As far as I know you can't download them from the Schumacher web site, so I scanned the little instruction sheets that came with a few of the KF2 option parts.

U4199: https://db.tt/A1VU1zlU
U4616: https://db.tt/yPszCG5h
U4640: https://db.tt/QqpuPw4F
U4708: https://db.tt/Xa9itObv & https://db.tt/wTQTBQCa

I haven't been able to assemble (dry or with oil) the gear diff yet without it being very rough. I have tried every variation of shims, too. I have the ball diff so I guess it is no big deal but I still wish I could figure out what I am doing wrong with the gear diff.

Everything else about the kit has been awesome.

Something to check as you assemble the gear diff the first pin you drop into the diff with the first two of the four small gears has to go into the slot in the case that is cut the deeper slot. you may just have gotten a defective diff.
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Old 11-29-2015, 04:46 PM   #643
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Something to check as you assemble the gear diff the first pin you drop into the diff with the first two of the four small gears has to go into the slot in the case that is cut the deeper slot.
That was most of the problem. (The manual actually shows the wrong way!) The other thing I did wrong was thread the 4 screws into the wrong holes. Everything works great now! (I also found an error in step 31 - They have different ball stud locations for each side.)

I am doing the low-grip version. Does anyone know if the shorty lipo locators (U4403) work with that setup?
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:47 PM   #644
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I am doing the low-grip version. Does anyone know if the shorty lipo locators (U4403) work with that setup?
Yes. They will fit and help keep the lipo in place laterally, but there is no room to move the battery forward/rearward. Be careful how much material you take off the right mud guard. If you take off too much, the lipo locator has nothing to connect to.
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:35 PM   #645
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What's the best motor position for a medium to high byte carpet track ???
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