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Old 07-29-2016, 08:27 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5
17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 02-04-2015, 05:55 PM   #46
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I can let you know on MIP shafts when I get my kit built. They sent those to try also.

If your running so much droop the driveshafts are popping out thats simply way too much.
I have a shiny set on the way for my car as well. Will have to see how it goes.
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Old 02-04-2015, 06:35 PM   #47
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One setup aspect I didn't quite figure out.
The front hub carrier position, whether it is high or low, makes what sort of difference?
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:22 PM   #48
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One setup aspect I didn't quite figure out.
The front hub carrier position, whether it is high or low, makes what sort of difference?
Big difference. Putting the shims high gives the car more grip upon entry. Putting the shims low gives the car more grip on exit. Putting 1 shim high and 1low makes it neutral. This is an easy adjustment for your car between runs to do. I prefer all the shims on top
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Old 02-05-2015, 04:39 AM   #49
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Hi all,
I run the MIP puck drives on all my Schumachers,and i can tell you the shafts are around 1.6mm longer than the standard ones!have to say they have been a great addition.
cheers,David

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Old 02-05-2015, 06:12 AM   #50
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Yes it uses an internal snap ring to retain the thrust still... same as always. I've never had an issue with any of the diffs. They're all relatively identical. I certainly don't like ceramic balls in my buggies, I use the carbides
I've just installed the carbide balls to try tonight. I seem to be losing consistency with the ceramic balls after about 2-3 meetings. The diff appears to work loose ever so slightly then I get the gritty feel due to them slipping and scoring the plates. I've tried nipping up the diff bolt slightly after each run to stop this but I'm worried about over tightening the whole assembly. I'm hoping the carbide balls will not wear the plates as fast under the same circumstances.
I contacted Schumacher direct but have not yet had a response. Any advice would be appreciated?
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:54 AM   #51
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Carbide should last much longer... I run my diff from the bench setting when I build it for a few weeks, then it may need a slight tweak. Most of the time it doesnt
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Old 02-05-2015, 09:09 AM   #52
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There is one thing I could not visualize...

For this car, you can set 2.5 or 3 degrees rear toe-in.
How is the 2.5 degrees set, with the toe blocks facing in?
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:32 AM   #53
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Because the pinholes are slightly offset to the mounting holes.
That makes a difference of about 0,5 mm or 0,5 when swapped.

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Old 02-08-2015, 02:25 PM   #54
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anyone planning on running the KF2 at motorama? i shook down my KR cars yesterday and will try to run this new KF2 prior to the event. any starting setup advice would be helpful.

in particular, i think i need to get my hands on a ball diff prior to the event. KF setups from Tom C and Carson W both listed ball diffs. anyone know where i can get a U4199 diff?
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Old 02-08-2015, 02:41 PM   #55
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Discountrcstore.com out of them?
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Old 02-08-2015, 02:52 PM   #56
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Discountrcstore.com out of them?
y
i cannot find the complete part list for the U4199, otherwise maybe i can order each piece...
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Old 02-08-2015, 05:44 PM   #57
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built the rear end tonight. reversed the arms. rear hubs fwd. shocks on back end. mounted inner arm position, and leaned in at top. 3mm anti-squat. 2mm on inner ball link.

put 7K asc diff fluid (not sure if there is a better option/opinion until i can get a ball diff).
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Old 02-08-2015, 05:50 PM   #58
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built the rear end tonight. reversed the arms. rear hubs fwd. shocks on back end. mounted inner arm position, and leaned in at top. 3mm anti-squat. 2mm on inner ball link.

put 7K asc diff fluid (not sure if there is a better option/opinion until i can get a ball diff).
I went to Losi 2k oil on my KF and it seemed to work well.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:34 PM   #59
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I went to Losi 2k oil on my KF and it seemed to work well.
what surface type and tires?
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:40 PM   #60
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y
i cannot find the complete part list for the U4199, otherwise maybe i can order each piece...
This is what you need to build a full U4199:

U3852
U3853
U3854
U3855
U4196
2.5mm diff balls (carbide or ceramic) I personally prefer carbide at U2459
U3140
U1954 (Optional)

It is a K1 diff after all, so look at this:
http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Te...1_exploded.pdf
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