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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

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Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
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10.5
13.5
17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 08-07-2015, 08:22 AM   #421
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Originally Posted by Skinny_j View Post
I finally bit the bullet and ordered my kf2 with the mm conversion and alloy rear trans housing. Cant wait to get it and test it out. I read somewhere that the b5 wheels wont fit the front of this car because they are too thin. Can anyone confirm this?
I use the Associated wheels in both the 2.2" and 2.4" size on the front without issue. The faces of the wheel nuts with the Schumacher wheels end up being flush with the tips of the axles when tight. The AE wheels have the same offset and fit the same.
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:30 AM   #422
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Excellent! I have lots of bran new b5 tires. Soooo cant wait to get my car. Even bought it from discount rc!
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:31 AM   #423
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I finally bit the bullet and ordered my kf2 with the mm conversion and alloy rear trans housing. Cant wait to get it and test it out. I read somewhere that the b5 wheels wont fit the front of this car because they are too thin. Can anyone confirm this?
B5 wheels fit fine.
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:01 AM   #424
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Excellent! I have lots of bran new b5 tires. Soooo cant wait to get my car. Even bought it from discount rc!
Excellent move!
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:07 AM   #425
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Yeah, if it is anything like my k1 aero i will love it. My wheeler is so easy to drive, is very consistent and smoothe as butter!
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:30 AM   #426
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I gotta ask. If I need to move the motor back and make this car mid motored to make it work why wouldn't I just get an sv2 and roll with it. I know the three configurations make this car very adjustable to any surface, But im pretty sure you can make an sv2 go well on just about any surface as well.
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:37 AM   #427
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I spent a couple hours at the track last night testing the MM conversion. It was a good test situation too because the track was on the lower end of the grip spectrum because it was very dry. Two weeks ago it was very hot and muggy here and the track was holding enough water to the point that slicks were the go to tire. Last night the track was more accepting of a low pin Dirtweb/Chainlink/Electron of which I used the Electron.

The results so far are a mixed bag. On the positive note the car definitely has a lot more forward bite. That problem appears to be solved nicely. The problem is now that the car is very loose off power coming into a corner and in mid corner such that it wants to over-rotate. The car now needs some more side bite. This is due to the increased weight forward and that any braking will want to pitch the car forward more than before because of the new motor position.

Here is how I tried to tune this out in the order I tried them in:

- Reduce drag brake to 5% (Probably should have went to 0)
- 0 degrees anti-squat
- Went to the LCG battery after starting with a shorty lipo of typical weight
- Took the 60g saved from the battery and put 14g on both back corners of the chassis and another 30g under the trans housings
- Went to the middle mounting hole on the rear arms in a quick effort to reduce droop

After all of this the car was almost there. Still a little loose going into the corner and at mid corner. Enough to bother me. I did have some fast laps mixed in with some inconsistency due to the unpredictable behavior off power. Going to the lighter battery helped and adding the weight helped even more. I was actually quite surprised by how much changing the rear arm mount helped. I have attached the setup I ended up with.

The next time I go out I think I am going to put limiters in the rear shocks and go back to the outer hole because clearly anything to keep the weight from shifting forward is helping. I also will go to the black springs in front (4.0 rate) and maybe even go up to 500-550 cSt oil. I may also try to run a little less aggressive tire in front like a AKA Pinstripe or a JC Barcode to take away some of the bite in the front. And finally get rid of all drag brake. If that all doesn't do it then I might try the LRP super shorty and put the speedo next to it to get even more weight off the front.

The last thing I ended up doing but not on the car setup itself was to go to -25% expo on the steering. I might even go to -50%. This car has TONS of steering and I feel like if I can just use the first 50% of it most of the time then it should be easier to handle it. I really feel that this car could be seriously dangerous in the right hands. I would put myself at roughly average in terms of skill as that is where I end up finishing at club races. But there about 6 guys competing at the ROAR 1/10 off road nationals who race at my track on a weekly basis so keep that in mind. But with a little more setup work and some practice I think it is going to ultimately pay off.

For those looking for a more conservative and cost effective platform for tracks you typically find here in the States by all means go with the SV2 and follow Tony's recipe for lengthening it. That or wait for an updated SV2, which Tony has stated earlier in this thread (or maybe another Schumacher thread) would be updated. But if you run on tracks that trend towards the mid to higher levels of traction I think this is your ticket.

Hopefully Tony gets the setup info from the team out at Euros at some point and we can see what they are up to with tuning the MM conversion. And please everyone else share what your experiences are if and when you get the conversion done.
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:03 PM   #428
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Matt, you are running the rear arms rearward, right?

Great write up as usual. Thanks for all your excellent insight.

Do you know if Maiser is still using his tranny mod he created a few months back? I'm curious as to how that is working for him still. Did he use that in Canada for the CIC?
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Old 08-07-2015, 03:42 PM   #429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinny_j View Post
I finally bit the bullet and ordered my kf2 with the mm conversion and alloy rear trans housing. Cant wait to get it and test it out. I read somewhere that the b5 wheels wont fit the front of this car because they are too thin. Can anyone confirm this?
B4/B5 wheels will narrow the track width .5mm in the front per side and 1mm per side in the rear...

I use them with avid 1mm spacers in the rear and leave the front...
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:25 PM   #430
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Thanks tony, i guess ill pick some spacers up for the rear.
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Old 08-08-2015, 04:54 AM   #431
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I would prefer one of those wins to be at Yatabe Arena in October. I just love the idea of a 14/15 year old kid being the world's best at anything, never mind R/C racing. It has that David vs Goliath flavor to it.....
Michal did it made pole for Euro Nats! 4WD
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:17 AM   #432
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B4/B5 wheels will narrow the track width .5mm in the front per side and 1mm per side in the rear...
I am using the kit Schumacher wheels and the Associated #9695 rear 2.2" and I am not measuring any difference.

The method I use is to mount either pair and measure the distance between the outer extents of each wheel.

Am I missing something? Which B5 wheels are you using as a reference?
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:20 AM   #433
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Ive always ran avid wheels... brand doesnt matter, Ive measured quite a few couple years ago when I discovered the differences

run a straight edge across the rear of the wheels and measure the hex depth with calipers.... the offset is different, not by much...
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Old 08-08-2015, 11:38 AM   #434
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Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
I gotta ask. If I need to move the motor back and make this car mid motored to make it work why wouldn't I just get an sv2 and roll with it. I know the three configurations make this car very adjustable to any surface, But im pretty sure you can make an sv2 go well on just about any surface as well.
SV2 was my go to buggy for running on clay when I lived in Oympia, I was faster with it than the KF. (plus it was much lighter, especially with a shorty instead of saddles)

After I moved to the UK the SV2 just could not hang with the KF's on astro.
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Old 08-08-2015, 12:17 PM   #435
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Originally Posted by motorcitymatt View Post
I spent a couple hours at the track last night testing the MM conversion. It was a good test situation too because the track was on the lower end of the grip spectrum because it was very dry. Two weeks ago it was very hot and muggy here and the track was holding enough water to the point that slicks were the go to tire. Last night the track was more accepting of a low pin Dirtweb/Chainlink/Electron of which I used the Electron.

The results so far are a mixed bag. On the positive note the car definitely has a lot more forward bite. That problem appears to be solved nicely. The problem is now that the car is very loose off power coming into a corner and in mid corner such that it wants to over-rotate. The car now needs some more side bite. This is due to the increased weight forward and that any braking will want to pitch the car forward more than before because of the new motor position.

Here is how I tried to tune this out in the order I tried them in:

- Reduce drag brake to 5% (Probably should have went to 0)
- 0 degrees anti-squat
- Went to the LCG battery after starting with a shorty lipo of typical weight
- Took the 60g saved from the battery and put 14g on both back corners of the chassis and another 30g under the trans housings
- Went to the middle mounting hole on the rear arms in a quick effort to reduce droop

After all of this the car was almost there. Still a little loose going into the corner and at mid corner. Enough to bother me. I did have some fast laps mixed in with some inconsistency due to the unpredictable behavior off power. Going to the lighter battery helped and adding the weight helped even more. I was actually quite surprised by how much changing the rear arm mount helped. I have attached the setup I ended up with.

The next time I go out I think I am going to put limiters in the rear shocks and go back to the outer hole because clearly anything to keep the weight from shifting forward is helping. I also will go to the black springs in front (4.0 rate) and maybe even go up to 500-550 cSt oil. I may also try to run a little less aggressive tire in front like a AKA Pinstripe or a JC Barcode to take away some of the bite in the front. And finally get rid of all drag brake. If that all doesn't do it then I might try the LRP super shorty and put the speedo next to it to get even more weight off the front.

The last thing I ended up doing but not on the car setup itself was to go to -25% expo on the steering. I might even go to -50%. This car has TONS of steering and I feel like if I can just use the first 50% of it most of the time then it should be easier to handle it. I really feel that this car could be seriously dangerous in the right hands. I would put myself at roughly average in terms of skill as that is where I end up finishing at club races. But there about 6 guys competing at the ROAR 1/10 off road nationals who race at my track on a weekly basis so keep that in mind. But with a little more setup work and some practice I think it is going to ultimately pay off.

For those looking for a more conservative and cost effective platform for tracks you typically find here in the States by all means go with the SV2 and follow Tony's recipe for lengthening it. That or wait for an updated SV2, which Tony has stated earlier in this thread (or maybe another Schumacher thread) would be updated. But if you run on tracks that trend towards the mid to higher levels of traction I think this is your ticket.

Hopefully Tony gets the setup info from the team out at Euros at some point and we can see what they are up to with tuning the MM conversion. And please everyone else share what your experiences are if and when you get the conversion done.
Another excellent tech note! Confused a little on what type of battery to run for 17.5. Read a article on the new LCG on-line (LiveRC) that the LCG's do not provide enough power for stock racing, but are excellent for mod! Any thoughts on this subject? I am using Protek 4250/100C now. P.S. How about that kid Orlowski 4WD Euro Champion!
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