New Schumacher KF2
|
|||
#256
Hey all,
I just ordered a KF2 and was wondering if you can build it to fit a shorty pack w/out purchasing aftermarket mods? Thanks!
I just ordered a KF2 and was wondering if you can build it to fit a shorty pack w/out purchasing aftermarket mods? Thanks!
#257
Tech Regular
#258
Basic starting point for gearing a KF with 17.5?
It'll be indoor clay, medium size track.
Thanks again!
It'll be indoor clay, medium size track.
Thanks again!
#259
#260
Tech Regular
It is also my first buggy with a mod motor. Been running my KR in 17.5 stock. I had a HobbyWing 10.5 I put in the KF, so a lot of my problems last night were trigger finger induced.
The car did pretty well if I stayed on the race line in the grove, and if I was easy on the throttle. But if it got out of the grove, it would spin out every time.
Lots of folks at the track running B5Ms and Losi set up as mid motor. I mainly got the KF2 to run at SRS where the traction is super high. I am also going to get a different motor. Probably drop down to a 13.5 which should be a bit more controllable for me.
I'd say most of the issues I had with it the first time out are 75% driver induced. But any pointers would be welcomed.
#261
The surface is not ideal for this car, ran it on a medium traction dirt/clay mix. For set up I started with just the build set up from the manual. Running 30 weight in the back and 32.5 in the front. Built the gear diff with 12.5k oil that came with the kit but it was way to heavy. Dropped down to 2k and it was better. Dropped down again to 1k and the diff feels much nicer. Running super soft bar codes on front and back. That is the popular tire at the track. I do have it set up in the LG configuration with the rear shocks mounted on the back of the arms.
It is also my first buggy with a mod motor. Been running my KR in 17.5 stock. I had a HobbyWing 10.5 I put in the KF, so a lot of my problems last night were trigger finger induced.
The car did pretty well if I stayed on the race line in the grove, and if I was easy on the throttle. But if it got out of the grove, it would spin out every time.
Lots of folks at the track running B5Ms and Losi set up as mid motor. I mainly got the KF2 to run at SRS where the traction is super high. I am also going to get a different motor. Probably drop down to a 13.5 which should be a bit more controllable for me.
I'd say most of the issues I had with it the first time out are 75% driver induced. But any pointers would be welcomed.
It is also my first buggy with a mod motor. Been running my KR in 17.5 stock. I had a HobbyWing 10.5 I put in the KF, so a lot of my problems last night were trigger finger induced.
The car did pretty well if I stayed on the race line in the grove, and if I was easy on the throttle. But if it got out of the grove, it would spin out every time.
Lots of folks at the track running B5Ms and Losi set up as mid motor. I mainly got the KF2 to run at SRS where the traction is super high. I am also going to get a different motor. Probably drop down to a 13.5 which should be a bit more controllable for me.
I'd say most of the issues I had with it the first time out are 75% driver induced. But any pointers would be welcomed.
The ball diff should help a lot out doors, and on the SRS clay.
#262
.. Thanks so much guys.. We appreciate everyone's support ..!
..p
#263
Anyone know if U4708 (LG conversion KF2) works with the KF Alloy chassis U4622?
It looks like I'd be missing some parts. I already have the lipo shorty conversion, getting the alloy chassis, and want to run rear motor position.
Can't figure out what exactly to buy to make it happen.
It looks like I'd be missing some parts. I already have the lipo shorty conversion, getting the alloy chassis, and want to run rear motor position.
Can't figure out what exactly to buy to make it happen.
#264
Tech Regular
Anyone know if U4708 (LG conversion KF2) works with the KF Alloy chassis U4622?
It looks like I'd be missing some parts. I already have the lipo shorty conversion, getting the alloy chassis, and want to run rear motor position.
Can't figure out what exactly to buy to make it happen.
It looks like I'd be missing some parts. I already have the lipo shorty conversion, getting the alloy chassis, and want to run rear motor position.
Can't figure out what exactly to buy to make it happen.
#265
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
The surface is not ideal for this car, ran it on a medium traction dirt/clay mix. For set up I started with just the build set up from the manual. Running 30 weight in the back and 32.5 in the front. Built the gear diff with 12.5k oil that came with the kit but it was way to heavy. Dropped down to 2k and it was better. Dropped down again to 1k and the diff feels much nicer. Running super soft bar codes on front and back. That is the popular tire at the track. I do have it set up in the LG configuration with the rear shocks mounted on the back of the arms.
It is also my first buggy with a mod motor. Been running my KR in 17.5 stock. I had a HobbyWing 10.5 I put in the KF, so a lot of my problems last night were trigger finger induced.
The car did pretty well if I stayed on the race line in the grove, and if I was easy on the throttle. But if it got out of the grove, it would spin out every time.
Lots of folks at the track running B5Ms and Losi set up as mid motor. I mainly got the KF2 to run at SRS where the traction is super high. I am also going to get a different motor. Probably drop down to a 13.5 which should be a bit more controllable for me.
I'd say most of the issues I had with it the first time out are 75% driver induced. But any pointers would be welcomed.
It is also my first buggy with a mod motor. Been running my KR in 17.5 stock. I had a HobbyWing 10.5 I put in the KF, so a lot of my problems last night were trigger finger induced.
The car did pretty well if I stayed on the race line in the grove, and if I was easy on the throttle. But if it got out of the grove, it would spin out every time.
Lots of folks at the track running B5Ms and Losi set up as mid motor. I mainly got the KF2 to run at SRS where the traction is super high. I am also going to get a different motor. Probably drop down to a 13.5 which should be a bit more controllable for me.
I'd say most of the issues I had with it the first time out are 75% driver induced. But any pointers would be welcomed.
#266
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
However, at the end of the day I believe it boils down to weight distribution. The best I could get on this car on the scale was 38.5%/61.5% front to rear. That is with the rear and front arms reversed, low grip kit, shorty all the way back, shocks on the back etc. I have a B5M that I run at the same track with the same tires, ball diff, total weight using the same electronics and I am able to push it substantially harder and drive it more aggressively. The difference? Its weight distribution is about 37%/63% front to rear. I personally find it hard to believe that 1.5% can make that much of a difference but I can't explain it any other way.
When it is hooking up well it can run with anything and can turn inside the competition in almost any situation. It also has a very graceful attitude on jumps that is really fun to watch. For my track's surface however I feel like I am going through too many contortions and departing too far from the car's intended design to be comfortable. I don't like feeling as though I am on the edge of what is possible with it.
My advice for anyone would be to really understand your track's spectrum of traction conditions and to adjust your expectations for this car accordingly.
Last edited by motorcitymatt; 05-06-2015 at 06:57 PM.
#269
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Or if you are really bored you can try something like this:
http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/sho...-SF-by-oliv996
I call it "Franken-Cougar"
Looking at the layout of the B5M and the KF2 from the top when both have shorty packs installed and the KF2 has shocks on the back it "looks" like the KF2 would have more rearward weight distribution than the B5M because the battery sits further back than the motor, which is much lighter. However, the layshafts/pulleys/mounts/slipper assembly for the transmission in the KF2 are pretty heavy so that probably ends up being a substantial difference compared to the plastic gearbox on the B5M.
At this point I am not willing to spend the money to find out but I am betting if you went with a low profile servo up front, ran the CF chassis and moved that saved weight to the rear of the car in the form of some brass you might be able to get into the 62% range at the rear. To get more you would probably have to go with titanium layshafts and carbon fiber pieces for the trans mounts. But that's a project for Shawn @ Plan B Racing
http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/sho...-SF-by-oliv996
I call it "Franken-Cougar"
Looking at the layout of the B5M and the KF2 from the top when both have shorty packs installed and the KF2 has shocks on the back it "looks" like the KF2 would have more rearward weight distribution than the B5M because the battery sits further back than the motor, which is much lighter. However, the layshafts/pulleys/mounts/slipper assembly for the transmission in the KF2 are pretty heavy so that probably ends up being a substantial difference compared to the plastic gearbox on the B5M.
At this point I am not willing to spend the money to find out but I am betting if you went with a low profile servo up front, ran the CF chassis and moved that saved weight to the rear of the car in the form of some brass you might be able to get into the 62% range at the rear. To get more you would probably have to go with titanium layshafts and carbon fiber pieces for the trans mounts. But that's a project for Shawn @ Plan B Racing
#270
Or if you are really bored you can try something like this:
http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/sho...-SF-by-oliv996
I call it "Franken-Cougar"
http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/sho...-SF-by-oliv996
I call it "Franken-Cougar"