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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5
17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 04-12-2015, 09:22 PM   #211
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Those are designed to be a press fit...

I always make sure to tap the arms forward and rearward while tightening the holders down to make sure they are fully seated and free. If they bind, the car wont work very well
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:29 PM   #212
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Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
3) I am using the Core-RC servo arm, and it is like a hair from or maybe even rubbing a tad on the top of the bulk head? I have dropped the servo all the way down towards the chassis. Savox 1258T. Has anyone else seen this?
I am using the exact same servo and arm and I noticed the same thing. It is a tight clearance. So far I have not had any rubbing or interference.

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4) How much black grease should I put on the transmission gears? I put a little blob on and then ran it through the gears, seems like enough?
I used the tip of an exact-o blade to place a small little dab in the notch of every tooth. While this may seem to be a little OCD it ensures nice even coverage. Even if you lay it on too thick it will all just sling off onto the inside of the case and you can pull it off and wipe it up later.

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5) How tight do you run the belt? I have heard and seen a whole different slew of thoughts on this.
I asked the guys at Schumacher the same question. Their response was basically "as loose as you can without it jumping". It's hard to describe the setting objectively because there is really no way to measure it without using some kind of belt tensioning tool. Based on "feel" I would say looser than you might think would be OK.
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Old 04-12-2015, 10:38 PM   #213
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A couple other questions for you guys:

1) Those 1MM Quick-Clips are junk, they fall right off, should I just put a 1MM shim in place of them?

2) I am running the alum. rear link mount, and I was told to run 3MM spacers under it between where it mounts. The ball studs are now higher than the stock CF piece running 3MM spacers under the studs. Is this right?

3) I am using the Core-RC servo arm, and it is like a hair from or maybe even rubbing a tad on the top of the bulk head? I have dropped the servo all the way down towards the chassis. Savox 1258T. Has anyone else seen this?

4) How much black grease should I put on the transmission gears? I put a little blob on and then ran it through the gears, seems like enough?

5) How tight do you run the belt? I have heard and seen a whole different slew of thoughts on this.

Thanks!
1. I haven't had a problem with any of my clips yet, but I don't see why a traditional wouldn't work.

2. Alloy rear link with zero spacers it's supposed to be -4mm from the cf link with zero spacers. If you add a 3mm spacer then your at -1mm.

4. I placed a glob of grease at each of the four main cardinal headings, north south east and west on both gears.
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:18 PM   #214
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2. Alloy rear link with zero spacers it's supposed to be -4mm from the cf link with zero spacers. If you add a 3mm spacer then your at -1mm..
So the CF with the 3MM spacers is -3? And then the alum. with non is also -3?

The manual shows the CF with 1-1MM and 1-2MM spacer under the stud, so a total of 3MM.

I am a little confused... Should I run the 3MM spacer on the alum. one or no spacers?

Thanks!!
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:33 PM   #215
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I put together my KF2 kit last night and was just wondering if anyone else had a hard time getting the rear pins that hold the arms on with those little ball ends that slip into the suspension mounts and the rear suspension strap?

I had to really press it together with some force... I would hate to have to change a rear arm out :/

I hope I didn't bend any of the mounts/pins... I could feel the chassis (CF) flex a bit while trying to press the whole assembly together.

Sam
I put the ball ends in the suspension mounts first and then put in the hinge pins. Basically I found that the ball cups are expanded a bit with the hinge pins in making it harder to push them in.
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:43 PM   #216
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Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
So the CF with the 3MM spacers is -3? And then the alum. with non is also -3?

The manual shows the CF with 1-1MM and 1-2MM spacer under the stud, so a total of 3MM.

I am a little confused... Should I run the 3MM spacer on the alum. one or no spacers?

Thanks!!
With no spacers the cf =0 and the alloy equals -4mm. Adding spacers to the cf lowers the ball while adding spacers under the alloy raises the ball. If the manual is using 3mm (0-3=-3) with the cf than that would be the same as running 1mm with the alloy (-4+1=-3).
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:49 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
A couple other questions for you guys:

1) Those 1MM Quick-Clips are junk, they fall right off, should I just put a 1MM shim in place of them?

2) I am running the alum. rear link mount, and I was told to run 3MM spacers under it between where it mounts. The ball studs are now higher than the stock CF piece running 3MM spacers under the studs. Is this right?

3) I am using the Core-RC servo arm, and it is like a hair from or maybe even rubbing a tad on the top of the bulk head? I have dropped the servo all the way down towards the chassis. Savox 1258T. Has anyone else seen this?

4) How much black grease should I put on the transmission gears? I put a little blob on and then ran it through the gears, seems like enough?

5) How tight do you run the belt? I have heard and seen a whole different slew of thoughts on this.

Thanks!
1) No problems with running shims.

4) I use motorcycle chain lube as this doesn't fling, but I also have this anyway. Use just enough to give the gears a thin coating after they've been turned or run a bit, try and use something a bit sticky otherwise it'll just coat the gear cover.

5) I set the belt tension by trying to twist it. Using a finger gently try and twist the belt on the upper run, you just need to put your finger on the side of the belt and try and twist it around its own axis. You don't need to use much force and the belt will go tight when it's at its limit, it is a feel thing and doesn't need to be forced. 90 degrees is about right for me, if the belt can turn more its too loose and if less it's too tight. I've always done it this way and never had an issue.
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:52 PM   #218
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Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
So the CF with the 3MM spacers is -3? And then the alum. with non is also -3?

The manual shows the CF with 1-1MM and 1-2MM spacer under the stud, so a total of 3MM.

I am a little confused... Should I run the 3MM spacer on the alum. one or no spacers?

Thanks!!
Start with the 3mm if spacers under the alloy strap, this us the same as using the kit cf strap with 1mm under the ball stud.
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:03 AM   #219
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Any one have the final drive ratios for the 117T shorty belt and the 103T low grip belt?

Thanks
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:15 AM   #220
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Any one have the final drive ratios for the 117T shorty belt and the 103T low grip belt?

Thanks
The gear ratio of the transmission regardless of belt size is 2.58
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:04 PM   #221
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Has anyone tried both the Alloy chassis and CF chassis when running mod? What are your thoughts? I have the CF equipped, but I'm wondering how much different it will handle with the alloy chassis. It will add some weight which would feel more stable, right?
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:31 PM   #222
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I liked the carbon chassis more because it offered alittle more grip but seemed more consistent, which is more important to me. The CG is also a bit higher with the carbon chassis.. adding some grip also
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Old 04-15-2015, 05:41 AM   #223
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Originally Posted by Disturbed1 View Post
Hi all,
I run the MIP puck drives on all my Schumachers,and i can tell you the shafts are around 1.6mm longer than the standard ones!have to say they have been a great addition.
cheers,David

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
What part number was the Mip Puck Drives? there's 2 available, MIP14280 and MIP14275?
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Old 04-15-2015, 05:51 AM   #224
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I'll be building one up in just a few days time, setting it up too race stock 17.5 class on carpet and indoor clay. I was looking to keep the standard alloy chassis as I think having more weight too the ground will help cornering speed. I'll be running a novak pulse 17.5 ballistic system, if its a bit laggy for punch I was going to increase the shock oil 5 weight all round to help it not soak into the jumps.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:47 PM   #225
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What part number was the Mip Puck Drives? there's 2 available, MIP14280 and MIP14275?
14280 is for the gear diff. 14275 is for the ball diff.

My KF2 has very little slop already I don't think the cost of pucks is worth it. I'm not looking for weight savings. I played that game with my b5m. I won't do it again.
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