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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5
17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 03-17-2015, 04:08 PM   #151
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If you look at all the parts that make of both of these diffs, you will see that they use different part #'s for the gear, the outdrives etc. I cant say for sure if they would interchange but would think there would be enough differences that would hinder interchangeability.
Unfortunately, the U4199 ball diff is out of stock.

Does the gear diff really make that much of a difference on med-high traction indoor clay?

How often are stocks replenished state-side?
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Old 03-17-2015, 04:19 PM   #152
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Gear diff is most advantageous on super high bite carpet etc..... you'll usually want the ball diff for dirt

Discount restocks 3 times per week.... the ball diffs have been on backorder for a little while, anytime a new car is released the hopups for that car usually sell out very fast
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Old 03-17-2015, 10:23 PM   #153
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How do the optional vented caps work? I notice they still have a vent in addition to the bleeder screw and also include a bladder and an o ring. Are they not a true emulsion cap? Is the vent hole sealable?

I'm just trying to figure out everything I can before I make this purchase.
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Old 03-18-2015, 06:02 AM   #154
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the tiny hole in the side of the cap releases trapped air while installing the cap... every cap has one. You can assemble the caps in any configuration you'd like... bladder or emulsion style
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:40 PM   #155
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nevermind
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Old 03-19-2015, 11:54 AM   #156
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nevermind
Looks like you got your answer already but it was 4.05x4.06mm by my calipers.
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:29 PM   #157
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What are the length of the holes on center of the stock servo horn?
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:51 PM   #158
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Right around 21mm
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Old 03-19-2015, 04:19 PM   #159
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What are the length of the holes on center of the stock servo horn?
Do you mean the distance between the centers of the holes? Or the diameter of the holes themselves?

If the former it is 21mm from the far hole on the arm to the spline hole on center and 15mm to the near hole. This is for both the Futaba and Sanwa style horns.
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:23 AM   #160
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Does that have any affect on steering when we use inner or outer hole ?
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:17 AM   #161
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my kit arrived finally thanks to discountrc !
The tower protectors doesn't look like lexan. Should paint them with policarbonat paint on inside ?
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:48 AM   #162
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my kit arrived finally thanks to discountrc !
The tower protectors doesn't look like lexan. Should paint them with policarbonat paint on inside ?
DiscountRC service is top notch.

I used Tamiya polycarbonate paint on mine and they are holding up well so far. I know this because my questionable driving skills have produced quite a few test cases so far.

The attached photo illustrates an option you may want to consider when painting. You can paint the "nose" area a color to match the paint scheme of the rest of the car. I think this makes the car look less strange when it isn't all black like in the stock photos.
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Old 03-20-2015, 06:01 AM   #163
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Thanks. Mine will be definitely all black with matte finish
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Old 03-20-2015, 06:10 AM   #164
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Great. Definitely post pics when you are done.

I think the matte black stealth looks incredible but my indoor track doesn't have the best lighting and I think it would be really hard to see out there.

Just a quick recommendation when putting your kit together: Use a small amount of thread lock (included in kit) on every screw that goes through the bottom of the chassis into metal on the other side. I neglected to do this because the manual called out thread lock for other areas of the kit so I figured they would have asked for it there too if it was needed. It only took about 5 laps around the track before I noticed that my rear end was flopping all over the place because half the screws in the back half of the car had loosened.
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Old 03-20-2015, 06:45 AM   #165
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I'll race on grey carpet with it but taking the risk
Thanks for the advice.
I race 1/8 offroad too so I'm familiar with threadlock
1/10 guys usually don't like it but I allways use it when the screw goes into aluminium. On 1/10 I use the lightest one (pink) but I'll use med this time with KF2
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