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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

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Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
7.5
8.5
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17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 03-14-2015, 11:45 PM   #136
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If the grip has been that bad why lock the slipper? You're not getting any wheel-spin?
Not getting wheel spin cause the car has no umph. I reset the speed control and no change I.e. No torque. Going to try a different tire (slicks on the new surface) and gear up.
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Old 03-15-2015, 12:40 AM   #137
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Not getting wheel spin cause the car has no umph. I reset the speed control and no change I.e. No torque. Going to try a different tire (slicks on the new surface) and gear up.
If the car isn't wheel spinning, the slipper isn't slipping and the ball diff is good then your problem is electric and not the car. How hot is your motor after a run?
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:00 AM   #138
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Ya gear it til it gets warm... 160ish is what I hear from our stock guys, some run them around 200
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Old 03-15-2015, 05:37 PM   #139
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Do any of you have a ball diff assembly lying around that you can weigh or know how much one weighs off hand? I am curious how it compares to the gear diff assembly in weight. I just measured one filled with 3k fluid at 30.5 grams.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:15 AM   #140
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I'm looking through the directions that are posted online and I don't see anything regarding the low grip options. Are there published directions for installing the low grip option?

Does the kit contain multiple spring options or only one set fronts/rears?

The vented cap option, why does it contain a diaphragm if it's vented?

Thank you!
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:57 AM   #141
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I was running my Kf2 this weekend on a medium sized indoor clay track running 17.5. Car was good i switched the rear springs to 1.6's and left everything else stock. My car does have the carbon fiber chassis with the shorty conversion installed, ball diff, U4616 aluminum upper trans housing with the shock mounted on the rear of the arm, and i am geared at 34/70 on a orion vst2 17.5 motor running afer 6 minutes i was at 120 degrees and a orion 4500 100C carbon pro shorty, total weight with everything in my car was 1561 grams. The car seemed sluggish to get back up to speed coming out of a slow corner, anyone have any ideas on getting more accleration out of this thing? Where do you guy run your belt tension settings at?

Some things i have already tried are ran little looser gear mesh, locked the slipper to make sure it wasnt slipping out of a corner, tried a 35 tooth pinon didnt notice a diffrence same temp after 6 minutes, recalibrated my esc (hobbywing v3.1 stock spec) and tried diffrent punch control settings.

I do plan on getting the pucks system soon and those aluminum outdrives should help acceleration with less rotating weight, i do wish someone would come out with a slipper eliminator for this car and that would free up alot more rotating mass.
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:52 AM   #142
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I'm looking through the directions that are posted online and I don't see anything regarding the low grip options. Are there published directions for installing the low grip option?
The bag containing the low grip conversion parts contains the instructions for installing it on a sheet of paper. It is pretty straight forward. You just end up using another (more rearward) set of motor mount holes and then you add a belt tensioner pulley so the new shorter belt can clear the shorty pack. If you would like a copy of the instructions I can scan them or take quick photo and send it to you.

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Does the kit contain multiple spring options or only one set fronts/rears?
The kit contains only one set of springs and they are made by CoreRC. The fronts (CR183) are the "black" color code with a rate of 4.0. The rears (CR185) are the "red" ones and have a 2.0 rate.
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Old 03-16-2015, 02:18 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gdsmracer View Post
I was running my Kf2 this weekend on a medium sized indoor clay track running 17.5. Car was good i switched the rear springs to 1.6's and left everything else stock. My car does have the carbon fiber chassis with the shorty conversion installed, ball diff, U4616 aluminum upper trans housing with the shock mounted on the rear of the arm, and i am geared at 34/70 on a orion vst2 17.5 motor running afer 6 minutes i was at 120 degrees and a orion 4500 100C carbon pro shorty, total weight with everything in my car was 1561 grams. The car seemed sluggish to get back up to speed coming out of a slow corner, anyone have any ideas on getting more accleration out of this thing? Where do you guy run your belt tension settings at?

Some things i have already tried are ran little looser gear mesh, locked the slipper to make sure it wasnt slipping out of a corner, tried a 35 tooth pinon didnt notice a diffrence same temp after 6 minutes, recalibrated my esc (hobbywing v3.1 stock spec) and tried diffrent punch control settings.

I do plan on getting the pucks system soon and those aluminum outdrives should help acceleration with less rotating weight, i do wish someone would come out with a slipper eliminator for this car and that would free up alot more rotating mass.
what spur are you using? if anything try a 71/31 and add timing to the motor. Your motor temps should be around 145ish
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:20 PM   #144
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Like it says in my post i am using a 70 spur with 34 pinion running the timing all the way up to the last notch, If i gear at the 31/71 your saying i would be gearing down and would run even cooler.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:07 AM   #145
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How tight are you running the belt? Maybe try it a bit looser, if it starts to slip you'll hear it so know you'll need to tighten it a bit.
One of the guys at our track is using a spacer made by RW so a normal slipper can be used so less rotating mass, but this is a one off at the moment, not sure if this will be sold to the public, be good if it was though.
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:32 AM   #146
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can we use only u4615 with std rear upper trans housing to take the shocks behind the rear wishbones or we should order u4616 ?
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Old 03-17-2015, 05:51 AM   #147
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can we use only u4615 with std rear upper trans housing to take the shocks behind the rear wishbones or we should order u4616 ?
You'll need everything that is in U4616. In addition to the shock tower mounts found in U4615 there is a small carbon fiber plate along with the upper left and right halves of the transmission housing, which are also made of alloy.

The small carbon fiber plate is only used in the forward mounting position. So if you could get U4615 and then a pair of the alloy upper housing parts you would be set to mount the shocks on the rear.
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:01 PM   #148
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Will ball diff u3856 fit? Is it any different from u4199? From what I can find, it appears to use the same diff halves, gear, and rails.
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:39 PM   #149
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Will ball diff u3856 fit? Is it any different from u4199? From what I can find, it appears to use the same diff halves, gear, and rails.
If you look at all the parts that make of both of these diffs, you will see that they use different part #'s for the gear, the outdrives etc. I cant say for sure if they would interchange but would think there would be enough differences that would hinder interchangeability.
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Old 03-17-2015, 03:42 PM   #150
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You would need to change the diff pulley for U4196 and then it will work. This is exactly what I did when I first got the K1 and converted my spare SX3 diff.
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