losirunner

I just picked this thing up, and I am new to nitro. It has a OS 12 CV in it right now, but came with a new not even broken in Fantom FR12. They are both bumpstart and i have the starter box.

Now, for the wuestions. What hopups or parts shold i uy for it right away? DO i need to change any gearing(or should I) for the Fantom? What else do i need to make this thing hardcore? I am used to racing top o da line off road electric modified, so i know I may have to spend some money, but what extra parts, back up parts, etc do i HAVE to have...

thanks

Aaron Waldron

No need to change gearing..the only aftermarket parts I ran on the old truck were the Trinity front pivot block (for weight..part number TK5009) and the rear hubs (TK5071 for the one degree aluminum ones).

If/when you break a few things, I'd start trying to convert the truck over to AD2 status. The front end is easy..arms and caster blocks. But as it is, no worries about making the truck better, it's great out of the box.

nwilcox88

iTrader: (5)

Aaron

I just picked up a new XXXNT Sport RTRII from a friend. Is this the same truck you are talking about when you say change to AD2 status when I start breaking parts?

Sorry for the dumb question, I am new to Nitro

oginct

I have a xxx-nt and when I put a o.s. 15 in it it smoked the gear in the tranny....so I replaced it with the robinson racing alum gear....you need to do that...the plastic gear in the tranny is not equipped to handle the power an aftermarket engine puts out.....so...replace the gear with the robinson racing gear...cost about 20 bucks......

Also replaced the o.s. with an tt evo 12....best engine I ever owned

riverrevo

iTrader: (2)

the diff gear should last a long time with any motor if its adjusted right. One thing that eats them up is having your slipped too tight, having too much drag brakes(heats evrything up and the tranny case get warped around top shaft bearings), or having diff too loose. If you follow the diff rebuild directions to a TEE you shouldnt have any probs. I know alot of the seasoned Losi gas truck racers will get a couple gallons out of a diff and not ever strip it, it just gets gritty and needs a rebuild, flip diff washers and often use the same diff gear for many more races. IMO the best hop ups are the 4 degree rear hinge pin block by Rock Concepts, and the alu rear hubs so you can stack washers for more or less body roll. I love the OS CV with aftermarket head. The most driveable and raceable motor out there. The new Draked Edition Tinity/Sirio motor is the bomb too, but twice the price of the old CV red head.

rusty-racing

iTrader: (4)

The only problem with running this gear is whats gonna stop the middle gear from stripping because its plastic also. If your stripping out the diff gear then your slipper is too tight

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

personally I'd stick with the o.s. cv. You dont need a alot of power in 2wd nitro. i think the fantom would be overkill. I agree You shouldnt need steel gears in the tranny if your diff is adjusted right. Also Aaron is right just get the trinity front bulkhead and i would highly recommend a trinity aluminum rear piviot plate, thats what I broke the most on mine