Proline Pro2 SCT indoor carpet setup
#1
Proline Pro2 SCT indoor carpet setup
Hi,
Me and my buddy have built up some Pro-line pro2 short course's over Christmas.
We built them up for our local 1/10 dirt track and indoor off-road track. We have only run them at the indoor off road track cos' the outdoor season hasn't started yet and we don't want to get them dirty . They will get dirty one day just not today
We are racing with fellow sct mainly Losi's. we are putting down consistent lap times of 24-25 seconds, but our competitors are putting down 21-22 second laps. They seem to SMASH us on the sweeping corners into and out of the main straight. They seem to handle like they are on rails on those particular corners while we keep rolling over if we come into the corner as hot as they do. in the tight stuff we are evenly matched.
I have a slash 4x4 with a LCG chassis that I can drive so much faster around the track and am a little frustrated I cant dial in the Pro2. I have attached a setup sheet with my current set up. I have it running low to increase unsprung weight to keep it from rolling but no luck. I've swapped out the ProSepc springs to put in shorter Powerstroke spring (without the secondary spring).
The surface is very smooth as its carpet over asphalt with a few ski jumps and doubles thrown in. I am thinking thicker shock oil and reduce camber and camber gain? any thoughts?????
I have asked the losi22 guys but they are reluctant of sharing there set ups
Me and my buddy have built up some Pro-line pro2 short course's over Christmas.
We built them up for our local 1/10 dirt track and indoor off-road track. We have only run them at the indoor off road track cos' the outdoor season hasn't started yet and we don't want to get them dirty . They will get dirty one day just not today
We are racing with fellow sct mainly Losi's. we are putting down consistent lap times of 24-25 seconds, but our competitors are putting down 21-22 second laps. They seem to SMASH us on the sweeping corners into and out of the main straight. They seem to handle like they are on rails on those particular corners while we keep rolling over if we come into the corner as hot as they do. in the tight stuff we are evenly matched.
I have a slash 4x4 with a LCG chassis that I can drive so much faster around the track and am a little frustrated I cant dial in the Pro2. I have attached a setup sheet with my current set up. I have it running low to increase unsprung weight to keep it from rolling but no luck. I've swapped out the ProSepc springs to put in shorter Powerstroke spring (without the secondary spring).
The surface is very smooth as its carpet over asphalt with a few ski jumps and doubles thrown in. I am thinking thicker shock oil and reduce camber and camber gain? any thoughts?????
I have asked the losi22 guys but they are reluctant of sharing there set ups
#3
#4
Sway bars are probably going to be the key to getting the trucks working correctly. If you lower the ride height it does lower the center of gravity, but because you didn't limit the droop as your truck rolls through the corner it is able to transfer a bunch of weight, causing your traction rolls. You could add a bunch of spacers inside the shocks, but a limited amount of travel will make the truck jump like crap.
Unsprung weight refers to the parts not supported by the springs (wheels, tires, hubs, a arms ect). If you don't know what something means, please refrain from using the terminology.
Unsprung weight refers to the parts not supported by the springs (wheels, tires, hubs, a arms ect). If you don't know what something means, please refrain from using the terminology.
#5
Sway bars are probably going to be the key to getting the trucks working correctly. If you lower the ride height it does lower the center of gravity, but because you didn't limit the droop as your truck rolls through the corner it is able to transfer a bunch of weight, causing your traction rolls. You could add a bunch of spacers inside the shocks, but a limited amount of travel will make the truck jump like crap.
Unsprung weight refers to the parts not supported by the springs (wheels, tires, hubs, a arms ect). If you don't know what something means, please refrain from using the terminology.
Unsprung weight refers to the parts not supported by the springs (wheels, tires, hubs, a arms ect). If you don't know what something means, please refrain from using the terminology.
If you can't be bothered to look at all the facts please refrain from posting a reply.
#6
You still need sway bars.
#7
Tech Initiate
Hello mate, a couple of us in the UK run these trucks on high grip asphalt tracks, we find setting the front camber links on the bottom of the shock tower, the rears on the top hole of the shock tower and making the linkages as long as you can really helps, could also try dialling in more camber to the front wheels, but persevere, these trucks are bloody great.
#8
Hello mate, a couple of us in the UK run these trucks on high grip asphalt tracks, we find setting the front camber links on the bottom of the shock tower, the rears on the top hole of the shock tower and making the linkages as long as you can really helps, could also try dialling in more camber to the front wheels, but persevere, these trucks are bloody great.
Just to double check more negative camber on the front?
#9
#10
The Pro2 is essentially a gussied up Slash 2wd. There are many sway bar kits available that could probably be adapted quite easily. I myself have always just built my own sway bar setups for any car that I felt needed one, as it is very easy to fabricate something so simple.
#11
The Pro2 is essentially a gussied up Slash 2wd. There are many sway bar kits available that could probably be adapted quite easily. I myself have always just built my own sway bar setups for any car that I felt needed one, as it is very easy to fabricate something so simple.
#12