104LikesYokomo YZ-4
10-10-2016, 06:27 PM
#1216
I have not seen one. If you prefer a gear diff but are looking for reused weight you could but the composite Yokomo gears. If you want super strong and super light the XRAYs graphite comp blend low 2+4 bevel and statellite gears for the XB4 will work.
10-10-2016, 07:44 PM
#1217
Just picked up a yz4 from another rctech member. What would be a good starting setup for a small medium to high bite indoor clay track?? Also what other brand of wheels can I run on the yz4 (zx6, 22/4,) with the correct offset ?? Thanks.
10-10-2016, 07:50 PM
#1218
ZX6, ZX5 fronts, RB6, SRX2/4, 22-4, rears. Check out YZ4 set-ups on Petite RC, as there are a bunch of great set-ups.
10-10-2016, 08:00 PM
#1219
10-11-2016, 01:57 AM
#1220
Hello Penn my friend, no problem in trying to share advice as everyone is always learning in this great world of RC racing. I feel weather one is super experienced, new to the hobby and all areas inbetween their is always something that can be shared and learned. Anyhow sorry for my lack luster attempt to throw down some philosophy.
The triple slipper is amazing on lower bit dirt and clay, thus especially when running mod motors. I really don't think it is essential for 13.5 however the new 13.5 motors are really becoming more beastly all the time so I think the triple slipper has great benefits on low bite dirt/clay as it really helps lay down the power to the front and rear in a much smoother and controlled fashion. Thus holding control of your buggy in all areas is easier in my opinion.
I find with all of Yokomo's option/upgrades they really do improve performance, reliability, strength what ever the part is intended to improve it does. I will say not that it matters however Yokomo also attends to providing the utmost aesthetics within their parts as they really combine the highest level of performance combined with elegance through their design style.
On another note: High end bearings especially the layshaft and gear box is a great investment. To your question on the SupraFlex top deck I love it. The added flex provides better traction on o
Low to high bite conditions and I have noticed it frees the belts up a tad more.
Big thanks to C Sturdy for helping me with the top deck and other things.
Keep up the good work Penn as I can tell you are loving this hobby and thus being so you are an additional asset and ambassador for the continued growth.
The triple slipper is amazing on lower bit dirt and clay, thus especially when running mod motors. I really don't think it is essential for 13.5 however the new 13.5 motors are really becoming more beastly all the time so I think the triple slipper has great benefits on low bite dirt/clay as it really helps lay down the power to the front and rear in a much smoother and controlled fashion. Thus holding control of your buggy in all areas is easier in my opinion.
I find with all of Yokomo's option/upgrades they really do improve performance, reliability, strength what ever the part is intended to improve it does. I will say not that it matters however Yokomo also attends to providing the utmost aesthetics within their parts as they really combine the highest level of performance combined with elegance through their design style.
On another note: High end bearings especially the layshaft and gear box is a great investment. To your question on the SupraFlex top deck I love it. The added flex provides better traction on o
Low to high bite conditions and I have noticed it frees the belts up a tad more.
Big thanks to C Sturdy for helping me with the top deck and other things.
Keep up the good work Penn as I can tell you are loving this hobby and thus being so you are an additional asset and ambassador for the continued growth.
Just a question regarding the triple slipper , Do you mean the vented slipper kit upgrade or is there something else your are referring too ?
10-11-2016, 11:36 AM
#1221
Yes it is the vented double slipper upgrade part YOKZ2-670V Basically brings three pads into the mix. Plus the design is great as spur gears are really kept true. I would recommend McKune pads or Garodisic by RCSHOX.
10-12-2016, 05:07 PM
#1222
Are AE springs a good fit on the yokomo shocks??
10-14-2016, 10:24 AM
#1225
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Does anyone know if the axles included in the Z2-415RS upgrade kit are the same as the stock ones? Is it just that the universal bone is a different size (66.5mm)? I'm looking to see if I can put a kit together without buying the entire Z2-415RS kit
Last edited by brew99; 10-14-2016 at 11:02 AM. Reason: "hubs" to "axles"
10-14-2016, 01:33 PM
#1228
Yes correct, the newest highly tunable 2 piece alum hubs and CVD combo have longer drive shafts being 66.5mm than the kits drive shafts and shorter axles than the kits axles. The 2 piece rear hubs also have 2 hinge pins locations, thus allowing additional tuning options.
The rear 2 piece hub axles do not use the 4.5mm spacer between the hubs outer bearings and 6mm wide wheel hexes thus they are shorter than the kit axels.
The new 2 piece rear hub and CVD package provides so many tuning options, thus increasing traction and stability on all track types. I can say that on low bite hard packed bumpy dirt tracks as well as med bite clay this upgrade vastly improves traction, stability through bumps, smoother and faster through transitions, much more stable going up and off jumps and landing. Easily sets up to virtually have no camber change through out full extension and compression of the rear suspension. I guess the package is pricey however it's well worth the $ in my mind as it takes the vehicle to a much higher level
The rear 2 piece hub axles do not use the 4.5mm spacer between the hubs outer bearings and 6mm wide wheel hexes thus they are shorter than the kit axels.
The new 2 piece rear hub and CVD package provides so many tuning options, thus increasing traction and stability on all track types. I can say that on low bite hard packed bumpy dirt tracks as well as med bite clay this upgrade vastly improves traction, stability through bumps, smoother and faster through transitions, much more stable going up and off jumps and landing. Easily sets up to virtually have no camber change through out full extension and compression of the rear suspension. I guess the package is pricey however it's well worth the $ in my mind as it takes the vehicle to a much higher level
10-14-2016, 03:07 PM
#1230
Tech Regular
I believe default setting per rear toe in is 3.0 degrees or 3.5 degrees. Default anti-squat per the rear I believe is -2 degrees, however running low bite dirt this wheeler loves 0 degrees of ant-squat with higher rol center per the rear hanger inserts. Rear front hanger inserts arrow pointing down Rear rear hanger inserts 4-H2 down with 0-H2 up.
The newest aluminum rear hubs are awesome! I run them with the standard kit S4 rear a-arms and the 66.5mm rear CVDs, and 5mm rear hexes or the kits standard 6mm hexes. Run the rear hanger inserts as listed above rear front hanger inserts arrow up, rear rear hanger inserts 0-H2 up 4-H2 down. Rear camber block far inner hole 2mm shim, thus the he newest rear hubs put a 2.5mm shim under ball stud in the most forward hole. OH! Put the thin aluminum black hanger shim on top of the rear rear hanger, thus between the rear rear hanger and the rear camber block.
The F5+1 front flat a-arms are great. Bullet proof! The wider front stance is a big plus in my opinion. If you notice the front hanger inserts and arms have a that forward and back movement just install either .7mm to 1mm shims between the the left and right front hanger inserts and front hinge pin ( basically shim on the front inner a arm hinge pins thus place between the inserts and front aluminum hinge pin brace. This totally gets ride of the inserts moving back and forth, hence the front hanger inserts will last a very long time.
I would hit up ShapeWays and order the new front bumper/skid front diff cover from BRC. Great custom upgrade as it is a tad thicker and secures to the bottom of the front aluminum a arm hanger via 4 screws instead of just 2. Thus seals the front gear box solid and secures the front hinge pin brace in place better. Put a tad bit of grease or heavy diff oil around the inner bumper/skid frame as this really seals things up when you screw down the skid/bumper to the front hanger. I do this on my gear boxes as well, thus when you put the two halves together is seals the gear boxes tight. I also run a tad bit of grease or diff fluid within gear boxes bearing pockets and on the inner part of the out drive bearings and top shaft bearings. If you want to help prevent dust and debri from getting into your bearings brush on a coat of DRY Gear Fluid.
The newest aluminum rear hubs are awesome! I run them with the standard kit S4 rear a-arms and the 66.5mm rear CVDs, and 5mm rear hexes or the kits standard 6mm hexes. Run the rear hanger inserts as listed above rear front hanger inserts arrow up, rear rear hanger inserts 0-H2 up 4-H2 down. Rear camber block far inner hole 2mm shim, thus the he newest rear hubs put a 2.5mm shim under ball stud in the most forward hole. OH! Put the thin aluminum black hanger shim on top of the rear rear hanger, thus between the rear rear hanger and the rear camber block.
The F5+1 front flat a-arms are great. Bullet proof! The wider front stance is a big plus in my opinion. If you notice the front hanger inserts and arms have a that forward and back movement just install either .7mm to 1mm shims between the the left and right front hanger inserts and front hinge pin ( basically shim on the front inner a arm hinge pins thus place between the inserts and front aluminum hinge pin brace. This totally gets ride of the inserts moving back and forth, hence the front hanger inserts will last a very long time.
I would hit up ShapeWays and order the new front bumper/skid front diff cover from BRC. Great custom upgrade as it is a tad thicker and secures to the bottom of the front aluminum a arm hanger via 4 screws instead of just 2. Thus seals the front gear box solid and secures the front hinge pin brace in place better. Put a tad bit of grease or heavy diff oil around the inner bumper/skid frame as this really seals things up when you screw down the skid/bumper to the front hanger. I do this on my gear boxes as well, thus when you put the two halves together is seals the gear boxes tight. I also run a tad bit of grease or diff fluid within gear boxes bearing pockets and on the inner part of the out drive bearings and top shaft bearings. If you want to help prevent dust and debri from getting into your bearings brush on a coat of DRY Gear Fluid.