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Old 11-21-2016, 12:03 PM   #1306
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Try EBAY as there usually is a lot of YZ4 parts available. Many buy kits and break them down, thus selling the parts and making $ in doing so.
First place I looked was ebay...No Luck
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Old 11-21-2016, 04:25 PM   #1307
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First place I looked was ebay...No Luck
Try Hearns Hobbies, Yokomo Australia. Pretty sure they can sort you out. Ask for either Rob or Nic, both are really helpful.

Warren.
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Old 11-22-2016, 05:52 AM   #1308
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Try Hearns Hobbies, Yokomo Australia. Pretty sure they can sort you out. Ask for either Rob or Nic, both are really helpful.

Warren.
I know I can get them from overseas, but shipping is ridiculous for $10 worth parts
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:10 AM   #1309
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I know I can get them from overseas, but shipping is ridiculous for $10 worth parts
Australia Post to the states is cheap for small items and quick.
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:21 PM   #1310
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Default Stock car

Hi guys,

Is the yz4 a good
17.5 stock car?
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:10 PM   #1311
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Hi guys,

Is the yz4 a good
17.5 stock car?
im sure any and all can be decent. in general belt cars can have a bit more drive train drag which isn't great for stock.

the xb4 comes with graphite diff internals and can be a very fast and good stock car.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:06 PM   #1312
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17.5 wheeler is big in Australia, I would try to contact YZ4 owner whom runs 17.5. There is a nice Yokomo dealer in Australia being Hearns hobbies thus there should be some I put availble. I am pretty sure one would be happy with any of the race wheelers.
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:27 PM   #1313
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I am considering getting the YZ4 for stock too. Some of the fastest stock 4wd are belt.

In motorcycles, shafts are less efficient than belt. Not sure it applies here lol
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:15 AM   #1314
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I am considering getting the YZ4 for stock too. Some of the fastest stock 4wd are belt.

In motorcycles, shafts are less efficient than belt. Not sure it applies here lol
There is a fair amount of Parasitic Drag associated with the Belts. It's relatively easy to overcome in Mod class (less Turn Motor, More timing and Boost etc), but in Stock class racing there is a lot less you can do so the more free spinning shaft cars might have an advantage in 17.5 & 13.5
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:45 AM   #1315
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There is a fair amount of Parasitic Drag associated with the Belts. It's relatively easy to overcome in Mod class (less Turn Motor, More timing and Boost etc), but in Stock class racing there is a lot less you can do so the more free spinning shaft cars might have an advantage in 17.5 & 13.5
this is absolutely the case in rc.
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Old 12-02-2016, 02:17 PM   #1316
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I have not noticed any negative running my 13.5 YZ4. Thing is amazing both 13.5 and mod.
Conditioning the belts with Eureka pro lube, set belt tension correctly, thus no front top tensioner per 13.5. Obtain a nice pinion to spur mesh. Also when securing the motor and layshaft bulkheads tighting screws in a X pattern. If both bullheads are not nice and parallel the pinion to spur mesh will stink. Ceramic bearings throughout the whole drive train. Narrow rear belt with the alum pulleys. Next remove and fully cleaning grease applied to the pre built diffs orings re lube lightly as makes a huge difference also removing one of the 2 shims behind the sun gear greatly helps. XB4 low graphite blend satellite and crown gears with alum diff pins can be fitted to the YZ4 diffs. Eureka prolube or other super free flow lube applied to the idler, top shaft and diff is a great way reduce wear. Fella's have been dremeling a tiny drop channel per the adjustable rear lower belt tensioner located on the layshaft bulkhead thus as well dremeling a tad bit of the nut adjustable tensioners nut. This allows the rear low belt tensioner to drop a tad lower which I guess works great in freeing up the rear belt.
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Old 12-07-2016, 02:44 PM   #1317
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Ball diffs for the most part are better on low bite. Also ball diffs are much easier/quicker to tune. Gear diffs much less maintenance better on high bite however they are great on low bite if one dials in the right diff oil weight per their liking.

Ball diffs require rebuilds way more often than gear diffs. I think gear diffs are perfa for med bite clay tracks.
Awesome thank you. What would be a good starting point when it comes to diff oil for a medium grip track? How do the different viscosity affect the handling?
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Old 12-07-2016, 04:37 PM   #1318
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There is a fair amount of Parasitic Drag associated with the Belts.
Not true. Under load, belt is more efficient.

Think about it- in a shaft car, the power must make 2x 90* turns across ring/pinion gears that are trying to separate under load (this is also bad for ball diffs, though they run well).

Belt seems draggy on the work bench, but because the belt/pulley contact is smoother and everything rotates in the same direction, binding and friction don't meaningfully increase under load.

If belt cars were draggy, stock TC racing would still be dominated by shaft drive cars. At the recent Associated race in Wisconsin, 13.5 4wd was won by aSerpent SRX4 and several of the a-main cars were 22-4's. This race is as competitive as 13.5 off-road racing gets.
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:36 AM   #1319
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Awesome thank you. What would be a good starting point when it comes to diff oil for a medium grip track? How do the different viscosity affect the handling?
Start close to default thus 10k front and lower than default in the rear thus try 7k. Good starting point for med bit. Lots depends on drive style as many Fella's run 10k 10k. . Lower diff oil weight can lead to faster lap times hower it's harder to drive unless you are super skilled.

Don't get brain voodoo worrying to much about diff weights thus start close to default, drive and have fun. Get use to the vehicle and tune from there. 10k front 7k rear has been money for me. 7k f 4K rear is nice as well.
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Old 12-08-2016, 01:32 AM   #1320
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thank you for explanation, it makes sense

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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Not true. Under load, belt is more efficient.

Think about it- in a shaft car, the power must make 2x 90* turns across ring/pinion gears that are trying to separate under load (this is also bad for ball diffs, though they run well).

Belt seems draggy on the work bench, but because the belt/pulley contact is smoother and everything rotates in the same direction, binding and friction don't meaningfully increase under load.

If belt cars were draggy, stock TC racing would still be dominated by shaft drive cars. At the recent Associated race in Wisconsin, 13.5 4wd was won by aSerpent SRX4 and several of the a-main cars were 22-4's. This race is as competitive as 13.5 off-road racing gets.
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